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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

westypnw wrote:
Should I be concerned with this amount of leakage?


I am going to make a wild guess that your high pressure oil pressure switch is leaking intermittently. If it blows apart it can empty your crankcase in a few minutes and may fail to register that your oil pressure is getting low.
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Crooked Designer
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 7:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Say I was to upgrade aux battery to LifePO4 battery.. Could I hook up a shore power charger to the starter battery and use the DC to DC charger (also hooked up to this starter battery) to charge the aux battery with shore power?

So would be 120v -> shore power charger -> starter battery -> DC to DC charger -> Aux battery.

I'm assuming I would just want to make sure the shore power charger is higher amps than the DC to DC charger.. and maybe make sure the DC to DC charger is active when it senses current (vs. the ones that are hooked up to an alternator signal wire) so it runs even when the van is off.
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2021 4:07 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Why do you need to charge the starter battery? It seems like it would be a whole lot simpler to keep the two wildly different batteries and their individual needs separate. Plus cheaper? On boats, it is not uncommon for the starter and house batteries to have totally different systems including alternators. With shore power it makes 110vac grounding far less complicated.
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fxr
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2021 9:25 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

It'd work fine - and you don't need to have a massive shore charger. The dc-dc charger won't take current if the input volts drop below a certain amount[1], so preserving the starter battery. This self-regulates just fine.

[1] 12.7V for the Renogy units. Switches back on at 13.2V.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2021 9:30 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

4Gears4Tires wrote:

Based on the location I wouldn't be surprised if the oil drain needs another 1/4 turn.


But do not do that without a torque wrench and knowing the proper value. That drain plug is easy to strip and then you have a real big problem.
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2021 11:24 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

First step is to get under there and see where the leak is coming from!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How much brake fluid do i need for a syncro? i have replaced al the pipes, now it is just to refill and bleed. After i have bought the brake fluid.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 12:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hi,

Can the front wheel bolts on a 2WD vanagon with stock brakes be too long? I bought 35 mm bolts from T3 for the 98-00 CLK 320 wheels and I'll be running 7mm spacers.

Now looking I should have bought 27mm bolts. Will that extra affect me negatively in any way?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 8:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I want to buy an exhaust system for my 68 bug but I don't know what to get. I want something that has a great sound. The best description that I can provide for the type of sound that I want is a nice deep fart noise. I want something close to a stinger but not as aggressive.
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Wrong forum

The PB Blaster sprayed on the tranny clutch shaft area has resolved the problem. Don't know why that would have happened after only 2k miles on the new tranny. But note compromised bellows. New master and slave together with a braided hose will show up tomorrow from BD and they will get tossed in for reliability insurance. Plus the shaft will get some lube too. Reworked slave bracket happens tomorrow.

Thanks, guys. Learned a lot from this experience.

Duncan
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I was reassembling some rear drum brakes and was wondering what movement actually works the self adjuster? Are they adjusted when using the hand brake? Actual use? Backing up? Just looking for an explanation how it actually works and too lazy to investigate. Thanks. Mark

edit: not my picture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


P.S. I did check the green bible first. [/img]
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

MarkWard wrote:
I was reassembling some rear drum brakes and was wondering what movement actually works the self adjuster? Are they adjusted when using the hand brake? Actual use? Backing up? Just looking for an explanation how it actually works and too lazy to investigate. Thanks. Mark

edit: not my picture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


P.S. I did check the green bible first. [/img]


It is not using the parking brake or reversing. It is just there being slop in the spreader bar when the brakes are in use. Movement of the vehicle isn't even necessary, but I feel it helps as the vibrations from moving down the road help the anemic spring do its job.
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Braking while going forward, backwards or sitting still, with either the foot pedal or the parking brake, will engage the self-adjuster.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

This video I took might be of interest. The adjuster skips off the teeth (I replaced the adjuster star etc) but shows the basic idea, I think: edited.

I have another video showing same with drum installed (in hindsight cutting a "window" into that drum was a waste of a decent drum)

To my eye, function of the vertical spring not withstanding, it seems that excessive outward movement (i.e. due to shoe wear) of the shoe with lever causes the lever on shoe to move upwards.

Neil.
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Last edited by Vanagon Nut on Sun May 02, 2021 12:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 2:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Neil, your link wants me to log into Google. I’ve assembled quite a few of these and just don’t see it. When assembled it all looks pretty static. I like the idea of a window in a drum.

Edit: looked at the picture. Looks like you need the adjuster end to move away from the ratchet pivot. The springs down force, pivots the adjuster lever up spinning the star one position. Then the gap closes and the ratchet is set.

I was asking because getting the final adjustment is a lot of effort. The self adjuster just doesn’t seem to ratchet the shoes up for the final adjustment. In other words, I don’t have a sense that they work efficiently. Seems I’m the one getting the final adjustment through the offset hole in the backing plate. The bus had a superior design. Thanks though.
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Stolen pressure plate resolved. Think the hole in the boot let in road gradoo and allowed rust to form and not allow the brake pedal return spring to be able to pull it up. The PB blaster must have been just enough to free it after forcing it to relaxed position several times with the pry bar. Monday both cylinders get replaced. At least I can save one of my AAA tows by being able to drive to the mechanic.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hey Mark, I've always been able to bring my pedal up with three or four applications of the brakes while going backwards. IIRC my '67 Ford pickup worked similarly. Going backwards the rearmost shoe gets pulled way out of position by the drum and the spring-loaded pawl does its adjusting job.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 10:10 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
Hey Mark, I've always been able to bring my pedal up with three or four applications of the brakes while going backwards. IIRC my '67 Ford pickup worked similarly. Going backwards the rearmost shoe gets pulled way out of position by the drum and the spring-loaded pawl does its adjusting job.


Seems the hand brake would force against the self adjust pivot, that’s not helping. So, it seems to depend on the wheel cylinder to force the shoes off the adjuster assembly enough so the spring could ratchet the self adjust arm. Backing up would swap the force. Obviously it works, but just wondered how. Thank you.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

MarkWard wrote:
Neil, your link wants me to log into Google. I’ve assembled quite a few of these and just don’t see it. When assembled it all looks pretty static. I like the idea of a window in a drum.

Edit: looked at the picture. Looks like you need the adjuster end to move away from the ratchet pivot. The springs down force, pivots the adjuster lever up spinning the star one position. Then the gap closes and the ratchet is set.

I was asking because getting the final adjustment is a lot of effort. The self adjuster just doesn’t seem to ratchet the shoes up for the final adjustment. In other words, I don’t have a sense that they work efficiently. Seems I’m the one getting the final adjustment through the offset hole in the backing plate. The bus had a superior design. Thanks though.


Dang. Sorry about the video Mark. If I find the video showing normal movement of the adjuster lever, drum installed (image below), I'll post it to youtube.

For other amateurs like me, or newbs, application of e-brake aside, I see the e-brake and shoes as two separate systems. i.e. even if the e-brake adjustment was left quite slack, shoes would remain in adjustment and the van would still slow, stop, normally.

One adjusts shoes then adjusts e-brake to that with close attention paid to the gap between e-brake cable end and lever on shoe.

Even though I replaced the e-brake cables during the rear brake rebuild, after setting the shoes, then adjusting the e-brake so it engaged after 2-3 clicks, though I have no real point of reference on this, it seemed the drums heated up a bit as I drove using brakes as little as possible or nearly not at all; I suspected a slightly too "tight" e-brake adjustment was causing the shoes to drag slightly on drum. A Vanagon shop checked and adjusted my work but the heat issue seemed to remain. So, I purposely set the e-brake slightly loose. As it stands, the e-brake works fine but assuming that the shoes have now worn in, maybe I should go back in to check the gap at e-brake lever.

At the risk of spreading Vanagon "koolaid".... Wink

As a somewhat WAG and means to see how things work, if there was a large gap between drum and shoe, if the adjuster lever was mounted solid to the shoe, as the shoe moved out to drum, the lever still might turn the adjuster wheel. But since that gap is usually small, the vertical spring is required to amplify or aid that movement;
the slight shoe movement allows the "scale" (lever) to tip which allows the spring "weight" to move the "scale" (lever).

In my case, after installing new parts, including the adjuster wheels, with a slight gap between shoes and drum, engine off, while pushing the brake pedal, I'd hear the adjuster click. To my ear a properly functioning adjuster makes a "click" sound only. An adjuster lever slipping off a tooth, not turning the wheel but moving too far upwards, makes a "twang" sound; that increased movement upwards causes the vertical spring to vibrate.

Neil.

New vs worn adjuster wheel from my '81. To my eye, the rounded off edge of tooth (teeth) is the culprit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


"window" drum (not a movie clip)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

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Hello all, I am on a trip currently in north Virginia and found a leak in my valve. Does anyone know how I can fix this? Could I go to a propane supplier and ask or should I order a part for overnight shipping? Any suggestions are welcome! I'm hoping to have it running as having burners and heat would be nice.
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