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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2021 11:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Check the fittings, and recharge with a dye-included oil.
Blacklight on the system will reveal the leaks.
Lather, Rinse, Repeat.
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 3:45 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
A/C was struggling, suspected low refrigerant.
Found Schraeder valves were leaking, tightened both.
Recharged A/C w/ 2.5 lb R134a.
Now compressor cycles on for 30 seconds or so, then shuts off.
Eventually blows coldish air.

What could be the culprit?

Note Subie compressor was plumbed to VW system by P.O. at motor swap with conversion high and low pressure fittings installed.



Likely the Subie Compressor has a Refrigerant Control Valve (RCV), either internal or external and either mechanical or electronically operated. An AC Compressor with an RCV doesn't function very well with an Expansion Valve which is typical in the Vanagon AC System ...
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 7:38 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

For removing the oil/coolant heat exchanger, is it ok to directly connect the ports or do the ports need to be capped off?

If capped, suggestions on how to do this?
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ProspectiveOwnergon
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 11:35 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

For wiring various gear from an aux panel, do you just buy 12/2 romex at a big box store? Not sure if they have stranded wire or not...

Also...if I am going from an aux panel, do you all just ground out your devices nearby or run the ground back to the ground on the aux panel?
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 1:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

@ Andy and Team W. T.-
No leaks detected other than the shraeder valve cores.
Previously the system responded to a transfusion of FLAPS refrigerant every year or so.
This quick-cycle gremlin is new.

Later, after local inquiries:
Tech who R&Red refrigerant said book calls for 3.5 lb charge of R12, But R134a "expands more" so suggested a charge of only 2.5 lb.
My Volvo mechanic thinks the system is still undercharged, causing the quick cycles.

Now what?
Maybe a can of FLAPS juice?
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fxr
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

ProspectiveOwnergon wrote:
For wiring various gear from an aux panel, do you just buy 12/2 romex at a big box store? Not sure if they have stranded wire or not...

Also...if I am going from an aux panel, do you all just ground out your devices nearby or run the ground back to the ground on the aux panel?

Please don't. The best wire to use is marine spec stranded wire, lots of thin strands, all fully tinned, usually with high temperature resistant insulation. Either order online or go to a chandlers (West Marine ect).
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thank you, Jim. I've been preaching this sermon for years.
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ProspectiveOwnergon
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 9:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:
ProspectiveOwnergon wrote:
For wiring various gear from an aux panel, do you just buy 12/2 romex at a big box store? Not sure if they have stranded wire or not...

Also...if I am going from an aux panel, do you all just ground out your devices nearby or run the ground back to the ground on the aux panel?

Please don't. The best wire to use is marine spec stranded wire, lots of thin strands, all fully tinned, usually with high temperature resistant insulation. Either order online or go to a chandlers (West Marine ect).


That's what i ended up buying after paying this, I read up on camper van wiring and why stranded is better. Luckily the 10awg wire i have has about 105 strands and when i order the 14awg for everything else it will be like 3-600 strands... all tinned copper. Smile
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 9:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

OK... stupid question again...

Reading through the Bentley and the electrical diagrams are gibberish to me. When I remove the auxiliary battery and relay under the driver seat, what am I looking to save vs trash when I convert to the renogy dcc30s unit? Trying to find tutorials and coming up empty...
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 2:40 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

ProspectiveOwnergon wrote:
fxr wrote:
ProspectiveOwnergon wrote:
For wiring various gear from an aux panel, do you just buy 12/2 romex at a big box store? Not sure if they have stranded wire or not...

Also...if I am going from an aux panel, do you all just ground out your devices nearby or run the ground back to the ground on the aux panel?

Please don't. The best wire to use is marine spec stranded wire, lots of thin strands, all fully tinned, usually with high temperature resistant insulation. Either order online or go to a chandlers (West Marine ect).


That's what i ended up buying after paying this, I read up on camper van wiring and why stranded is better. Luckily the 10awg wire i have has about 105 strands and when i order the 14awg for everything else it will be like 3-600 strands... all tinned copper. Smile


Short version. Houses don’t move, cars and boats do.
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 2:43 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
@ Andy and Team W. T.-
No leaks detected other than the shraeder valve cores.
Previously the system responded to a transfusion of FLAPS refrigerant every year or so.
This quick-cycle gremlin is new.

Later, after local inquiries:
Tech who R&Red refrigerant said book calls for 3.5 lb charge of R12, But R134a "expands more" so suggested a charge of only 2.5 lb.
My Volvo mechanic thinks the system is still undercharged, causing the quick cycles.

Now what?
Maybe a can of FLAPS juice?


Fix your Leaks please. Every year means you are spewing refrigerant into. The atmosphere and killing us.

Properly charged an R134 system should have about 4-5x delta between And high side , a bit more of its cooler.

An AC tech will know if it’s undercharged, not think.
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

HEY!
Quick question for the AAZ Crew!
Does anyone have the part number for the AC\ Alt Bracket?
Mine is cracked! I thought I had a second one, but I can't find it.......
(I would just get the number off the old one, but it's in the shop, and I'm at home. Shop opens again on Wednesday. At which time, I could conceivably have one in hand.)
Thanks guys!
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 8:19 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:

Short version. Houses don’t move, cars and boats do.

"You sees the thing is; the train moves, the station doesn't!"
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Diy2k
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 9:20 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Does anyone know if there’s an ECU swap thread??

Located in SoCal and want to test out my ecu.
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 9:46 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Diy2k wrote:
Does anyone know if there’s an ECU swap thread??

Located in SoCal and want to test out my ecu.


ECUs are low of the list of FI components that cause problems. What symptoms are you experiencing? Have you run through the diagnostic steps given in the Bentley? Helps to know if you are dealing with Digijet or Digifant as well.
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hi,

Adjusted my signature just now to show what model I have.

It cranks ok and ALMOST pushed over but just doesn’t. I’ve replaced various parts that I’ll list below but it just won’t crank over.

As for Bentley I’ve run the diagnostic and I just can’t find the issue. The closest issue I see is Alternator wiring or ECU being bad.

Tested alternator:good
New: coil, plugs, plug wires, distributor, hall pigtail, battery, injectors, IGN switch, O2 sensor, coolant sensor, fresh heads, valves lapped, good compression.

Someone kill me please
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 10:32 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

What diagnostics have you run? Have you confirmed injectors fire? Sparks fire?

Was timing set to the cylinder 1 tdc mark on the distributor when it was replaced? There is a very very faint mark on the distributor body. You need to set the motor to cylinder 1 tdc and verify by removing a spark plug. Then look at your distributor, there is a faint line scribed down the body/other mark where the body of the distributor should line up with the center of the rotor. That gets the motor started and then you need to time the motor properly.

Diy2k wrote:
Someone kill me please


I am right there along with you. Shocked
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 11:18 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I would make 100% sure that I didn't have the wires on the distributor 180° out. It will crank just fine with the wires that way, but will not start. Just try swapping opposite pairs of wires across the distributor cap and see what happens. You can always swap them back.

More history would help. Is this a new rig to you that hasn't been run before during your ownership? If it is something that has run for you previously, what did you do to it just before this problem cropped up?
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 11:31 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hi

Bought it not running , told it needed a tank 😕 the spark sparks and the injectors pulse when the cap is removed and rotor twisted by hand (dist slightly lifted)

I’ll try to adjust the timing to correct position. So on to the next question!

When the cap is pointing to the 1st position. What piston should be at the top of the stroke? I can crank the engine and check piston while positioning the Dizzy.
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 11:33 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Howdy!

My 84 Westy's been sitting for a couple of years whilst we decided what to do with it. Well, I finally got a round tuit and have been in the process of replacing the water pump, some hoses (with the silicone versions), the pressure tank (with The Tank), a new Overflow tank, and general maintenance stuff like oil change, speedo fix, etc..

Our only Vanagon parts store got bought out by NAPA, so I've had to mail order everything.

Since the gas in the tank is now dreck, can I safely just pull the line from the pump to the filter and dump it that way?

It currently has the white boxy filter, but I have the GoWesty adaptor tube to replace it when done.

Any other thoughts about what to do to bring her back to life?

Thanks!


Last edited by LandSailor on Fri May 21, 2021 11:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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