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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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Nimbus'87
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 8:40 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
Is there any possibility a faulty ignition switch could cause an intermittent crank/no start problem?


Don't know if you've fixed yet...
On my Ca. 2.2, if the idiot light doesn't light/trigger at ignition, the eng. will crank but not start. I've wiggled, jiggled, cleaned 'n replaced and still haven't gotten it figured out. It is an intermittent problem for me. Often I just stupidly keep turning the ign. till it lights then it starts no issues.
Yes, I've tried replacing the plastic ign. underneath the barrel. That didn't work for me. I'm leaning towards the X fuse block maybe.

So...did you get yours figured out?
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:

From memory it's about 6 3/4" though you should check it before running through the calculations. Why do you need to know where 45° is?


Thanks,

Well, I timed to the 2" mark I placed with white out. It had the effect of being a total DOG off idle, and quite poor acceleration. The PO did NOT have it timed that way, and I fiddled with it back a couple years using the 2" (Corkins?) method, but had noted back then where the PO had it set and put it back there then... This time I had forgotten about noting where the PO had it, and now I am trying to get back to the way it was working before I messed it up to the 35deg point.. Most threads say not to go further than 45deg, so that is why I am looking for where 45deg would be. --- So I don't go too far.

And, ya, the formula provided could be used backwards to solve the riddle, but I am indeed lazy.. I mean, I have 3 long blocks in my engine storage area only an elevator ride away at home, but I'm at work when I am thinking of this stuff... And, even though I open the hatch to mess with the timing, somehow it escapes my thoughts to measure the pulley, even though I have a tape measure in my silverware drawer... Both lazy and stupid..

PS. I've seen you mention other settings, sometimes you mention other rpm's to set timing to.. but perhaps that was for 1.9 wbx's .. if you'd kindly reference your method (if 'all in' or other, and the RPMs you set it at, I'd appreciate it. Mine is stock 2.1, well, with 1.25/1 rockers, and the RMW/tencentlife tuned exhaust (which I assume is yet another reason it seems to have little power until 3200 rpm).. then its awesome.. and sound interesting as well.

Thanks,

-bobby
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:

PS. I've seen you mention other settings, sometimes you mention other rpm's to set timing to.. but perhaps that was for 1.9 wbx's


I can't beat 10c's method for timing the 2.1L engines.

For the 1.9L 28° BTDC @3800+ rpms, with the hoses removed and plugged works well. The DIS also needs to be bypassed.
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Nimbus'87 wrote:
BCE56 wrote:
Is there any possibility a faulty ignition switch could cause an intermittent crank/no start problem?


Don't know if you've fixed yet...
On my Ca. 2.2, if the idiot light doesn't light/trigger at ignition, the eng. will crank but not start. I've wiggled, jiggled, cleaned 'n replaced and still haven't gotten it figured out. It is an intermittent problem for me. Often I just stupidly keep turning the ign. till it lights then it starts no issues.
Yes, I've tried replacing the plastic ign. underneath the barrel. That didn't work for me. I'm leaning towards the X fuse block maybe.

So...did you get yours figured out?


My Syncro was stranded at work- got me there fine as usual but cranked/no start at quitting time.
Suspected fuel pump. Checked leads- no power to pump.
What is upstream from fuel pump? Fuel pump relay.
Replaced (Subie) pump relay at ECU hsg. No go.
Bootlegged new ign switch. Nope.
Van rested for a while as I pondered.
.
.
.
Last Thursday I tried again. It fired right up!
Repeated numerous times successfully.
A half-hour later I prepared to drive it home.
It would not start. Grrr & WTF...
.
.
.
It started every day this week. So:
Hoping for the best I fired it up and drove it home. Got here an hour ago.
Whew.
.
.
At one point I connected the OBD II scanner, it did not light.
(Have not tried it since then.)
This ain't over yet, just glad to have it home.

Now I have to get the Bug home....
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BrownEye02
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 3:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Are single tab thrust cam bearings still available for 2.1L vanagon's?

Noticed the new set of cam bearings I just received from van-again have the tab on both of the thrust bearings where as my case only has the tab cut out on one of the two case halfs.

Yes, I'm aware of the wbx bearing market right now........

Found these two threads below but just seeing if its worth finding single tab bearings or if I just need to look at sanding/grinding the tab off / notching the case. Waiting for van-again to get back to me too to see if it was a fluke on my order.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8194237
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=616885

P.S. - Not looking to get into whether sanding/grinding the case or the bearing is the better.....
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PHIPPSY
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 4:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Does anyone know if you can add a SlickShift conversion onto an autostick shifter? Will it screw anything up?
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PHIPPSY
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

PHIPPSY wrote:
Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.

Bad regulator.

BTW, it's an alternator.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BrownEye02 wrote:
Are single tab thrust cam bearings still available for 2.1L vanagon's?

Noticed the new set of cam bearings I just received from van-again have the tab on both of the thrust bearings where as my case only has the tab cut out on one of the two case halfs.

Yes, I'm aware of the wbx bearing market right now........

Found these two threads below but just seeing if its worth finding single tab bearings or if I just need to look at sanding/grinding the tab off / notching the case. Waiting for van-again to get back to me too to see if it was a fluke on my order.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8194237
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=616885

P.S. - Not looking to get into whether sanding/grinding the case or the bearing is the better.....

Double thrust cam bearings are pretty standard these days. DO NOT modify the case.. simply file the tang flush.

Always modify the cheapest part to replace Wink
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PHIPPSY
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.

Bad regulator.

BTW, it's an alternator.


Alternators produce an "alternating current", hence the name. This "generator" produces 12Volts of "Direct" current...DC....not "alternating" current.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

PHIPPSY wrote:
Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.

Bad regulator.

BTW, it's an alternator.


Alternators produce an "alternating current", hence the name. This "generator" produces 12Volts of "Direct" current...DC....not "alternating" current.

Yes, but the regulator converts it to DC.

https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3773/alternator---water-cooled
https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3776/alternator---air-cooled?v=
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 7:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.

Bad regulator.

BTW, it's an alternator.


Alternators produce an "alternating current", hence the name. This "generator" produces 12Volts of "Direct" current...DC....not "alternating" current.

Yes, but the regulator converts it to DC.

https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3773/alternator---water-cooled
https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3776/alternator---air-cooled?v=


Actually it is the diodes that convert the AC to DC, sure you know that already though.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2021 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Glenn wrote:
PHIPPSY wrote:
Also, Does anyone know why my generator light, "red light in the center of the dash" stays lit red? The battery stays fully charged and the generator belt is in place and is at the proper tension.

Bad regulator.

BTW, it's an alternator.


Alternators produce an "alternating current", hence the name. This "generator" produces 12Volts of "Direct" current...DC....not "alternating" current.

Yes, but the regulator converts it to DC.

https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3773/alternator---water-cooled
https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/3776/alternator---air-cooled?v=


Actually it is the diodes that convert the AC to DC, sure you know that already though.

Since this is the "lazy" person's topic I should of just called it a "thingy".
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Abscate
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2021 2:38 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

This is a technical forum. “ spinning thingy”
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2021 5:19 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

The alternator light functions by measuring the difference between the battery--more or less 12.5 volts--and the generator/alternator/spinning thingy leg when the engine isn't running-- 0-- and thus it light up. When the alternator/et al puts out its 13.5 ish volts, the difference between the two legs of the light drops to 1 volt, which is not enough juice to light it up.

So the fact your light is on all the time is only telling you the alternator light is not seeing the 1 volt delta.

If it's on the alternator side, it could be a failed component in the foil. This would manifest itself by having the light come on the minute you turn the key, but not start the engine, but stay on after the engine starts. And of course, it could be telling you there is something wrong with the alternator connection to the foil. But first you have to measure the alternator's output while the engine in running to determine that it's OK.

If on the other hand, the light doesn't come on until the engine is running and then stays on, then the problem is definitely in the foil.

Duncan
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Skippa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Well I have had my ‘82 Vanagon for about two years and enjoyed some good trips, including a cross country. I have not had any problems with the engine except the normal complaints about power and some simple routine repairs. On a recent road trip, the oil pump vibrated loose. I replaced the bolt that had vibrated off and checked to make sure I had not lost too much oil. The van restarted no problem, I went about 100 yards and BANG. The engine cut out and oil and coolant were everywhere. The back was blown off the engine. Here is my stupid lazy question. Before I start the process of getting a new engine I’d love to figure out what went wrong. Any thoughts? FWIW, my plan is to get another 1.9L NA. It’s slow, but had up to this point been very reliable and easy to keep on the road. Thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 2:42 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Skippa wrote:
Well I have had my ‘82 Vanagon for about two years and enjoyed some good trips, including a cross country. I have not had any problems with the engine except the normal complaints about power and some simple routine repairs. On a recent road trip, the oil pump vibrated loose. I replaced the bolt that had vibrated off and checked to make sure I had not lost too much oil. The van restarted no problem, I went about 100 yards and BANG. The engine cut out and oil and coolant were everywhere. The back was blown off the engine. Here is my stupid lazy question. Before I start the process of getting a new engine I’d love to figure out what went wrong. Any thoughts? FWIW, my plan is to get another 1.9L NA. It’s slow, but had up to this point been very reliable and easy to keep on the road. Thanks!


I would turbo it enough to get 100 HP or so from it so you can climb hills with ease. Going more powerful than that starts to reduce transmission life.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 3:00 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

The oil pump is driven by mating into a slot on the cam gear.

If you didn't ensure a proper engagement, you weren't pumping oil, or pumping it very inefficiently.

1.9 in an 82?
1.9 did not appear until 83.
Someone may have modified your unit at some point in the past?
Or you have an 83 with a PRODUCTION date of late 82 which is an 83 MODEL year.

Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 4:04 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Skippa wrote:
Well I have had my ‘82 Vanagon for about two years and enjoyed some good trips, including a cross country. I have not had any problems with the engine except the normal complaints about power and some simple routine repairs. On a recent road trip, the oil pump vibrated loose. I replaced the bolt that had vibrated off and checked to make sure I had not lost too much oil. The van restarted no problem, I went about 100 yards and BANG. The engine cut out and oil and coolant were everywhere. The back was blown off the engine. Here is my stupid lazy question. Before I start the process of getting a new engine I’d love to figure out what went wrong. Any thoughts? FWIW, my plan is to get another 1.9L NA. It’s slow, but had up to this point been very reliable and easy to keep on the road. Thanks!


You had a good run. Unless you become your mechanic, this scenario usually happens in a month or two.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Think the person is talking about a diesel?

djkeev wrote:
The oil pump is driven by mating into a slot on the cam gear.

If you didn't ensure a proper engagement, you weren't pumping oil, or pumping it very inefficiently.

1.9 in an 82?
1.9 did not appear until 83.
Someone may have modified your unit at some point in the past?
Or you have an 83 with a PRODUCTION date of late 82 which is an 83 MODEL year.

Dave

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