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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 9:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zephyr_shreds wrote:
I put a borgwarner turbo on my 1.9 diesel. It’s a very tiny turbo. When I first put it on oil would come out the exhaust. So I put an oil restrictor on the feed line and that problem went away. Probly about another 10,000 miles down the road oil is coming out the exhaust again. A bunch of oil is in the intake plumbing too.. what do I do?


Is your engine on a 50* angle or up-right? The VNT15 OE Garrett Turbo will weep a little oil on a 50* angle while idling. At boost RPMs, the exhaust pressure and boost pressure keep oil weeping in check. This has been my experience with an ALH engine on 50* in my 84 Vanagon.

Also, the Garrett VNT 15 has metal expansion rings for sealing purposes (one on each end of the Turbine shaft). I have no clue what the specs would be on the Borg Warner vs the Garrett with respect to the sealing rings. There is no rubber seal on the Garrett VNT 15 and I would assume this is the case with the Borg Warner.

The Garrett oil drain is designed to work properly at the 22* angle as in the Jetta/Golf/NB. The 50* lay over results in oil pooling in the drain pipe not unlike a plumbing drain trap. And, the 50* lay-over results in some pooling inside the Turbo.

Lastly, I am surprised that your Turbo hasn't locked-up due to lack of lubrication and cooling. That "small" Turbo operates up to and maybe beyond 200,000 RPMs. You should be running full synthetic spec oil and use an OE size oil feed at a minimum (no restrictions).
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Attention Syncro Mensch: Is it possible that a locker would become fully engaged if the vacuum lines were reversed? If so, is it possible to disengage the locker without driving the van? Is there a way to know whether the actuator is locking the diff when it is being installed on the trans?

So many questions, and so many opportunities to be a person of integrity and honor by responding with well researched answers. Be that guy/gal/them
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 8:29 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

If the lines are reversed, then out is unlocked and in is locked. If the rear tires are up in the air, you can pull the actuator out, put it in neutral, and spin the tires to unlock it.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 9:38 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thank you sir! This was confirmed last night when we went to the local brewpub with a longtime Syncro guy. There's a lot of secret handshake stuff associated with the $yncro world.
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alaskadan
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

My stupid question, is the front diff carrier the same as a rear diff carrier? Can a rear locker carrier be used in a front diif?
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 10:12 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Yes, same part.

My plan someday when I have a spare large burning my pants down is to buy a locking Peloquin, put that in my transaxle in place of the factory locker that's there, and move the factory locker to my front diff.

I can see the usefulness of a TBD on a rear axle in the kind of mixed road conditions that typify winters in the Intermountain West, whereas I would not want such a thing in the front. But I could sure use the front locker from time to time.
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alaskadan
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 10:33 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thanks. As much as I don't need one most of the time I still want that other knob. There's a locking carrier in the classifieds here for 600 bucks. It's in California. It irks me to pass on it because they don't come up too often. After shipping it'd be probly 800 bucks.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Yeah, I might be about to buy that!

But I can actually justify it's use, and pretty often.

If it's just the knob, then save your money and just stick a knob on there. I mean, really.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 11:37 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Yes, same part.

My plan someday when I have a spare large burning my pants down is to buy a locking Peloquin, put that in my transaxle in place of the factory locker that's there, and move the factory locker to my front diff.

I can see the usefulness of a TBD on a rear axle in the kind of mixed road conditions that typify winters in the Intermountain West, whereas I would not want such a thing in the front. But I could sure use the front locker from time to time.


This is exactly what I am doing with my western syncro project. Matt Steedle suggested it when he learned I was putting in a locking peloquin in the rear when he is rebuilding it and the front diff.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Well I emailed the seller, if I score the used diff then it'll go straight in the front and I'll save my $$$ and skip the TBD. We'll see...

And while I have the front diff out on the bench, I'll study the feasibility of the VC lockout device I've had rolling around in my brain. Not sure there's gonna be enough room in there, though. Only one way to find out.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2022 7:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Score!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2022 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Scored!!
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Any guesses why this front table leg was modified? (I’m assuming cutout is not stock)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 11:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

vanagonjr wrote:
Any guesses why this front table leg was modified? (I’m assuming cutout is not stock)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cable routing from underseat battery box
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2022 11:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Bar none, this is by far the stupidest question ever proposed in this or any thread ostensibly devoted to stupid questions.

Can Digifant 1 be modified to work on a similar displacement aircooled engine? I know the temp sender should be the major difference, but can it be tricked into providing an appropriate parameter for the ECU?

Asking for a friend.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 7:13 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Don't know much about the intricacies of engine mapping and all the bits involved so this makes me qualified to put in my one cent on this.

Since the engine needs to see a satisfied temp to go to closed loop, then this implies that if a fixed resistance value is applied mimicking the temp 2 normal running temp the engine should run fine. However, since there would be no open loop, how do you start the engine? Maybe a bimetallic strip switch would would take the fake temp 2 resistance out of the circuit until the engine reaches operating temperature???????

Sounds like it might be a fun project. But why would you want to? Sure maybe a smidgen better gas mileage, but opening yourself to Vanagon Syndrome???? Hall sender, throttle body, idle control, AFM, etc., etc., when you already have a good system with a John Muir fix capability.

And if the friend loves repairing exhaust heat exchangers, and still not having any heat, why not?

Looking forward to seeing what people who actually know will say. According to Mr. Google: "If you do not count the letter Y as a vowel, there are approximately two hundred forty nine words with three vowels in a row. Some of these are beauty, quiet, miaow, delicious, and pious." Yea, but if you get rid of all the ious ones--malicious, pernicious--how many are there?

Curiosity is pernicious and often leads me off into the rediculious. But it also is the way we find out about things, like what the other side of the moon looks like, and what if we take this new semiconductor gizmo to replace relays? Could we build a calculator and maybe something which could allow faster computations--i.e. a computer??? Or what about an E T3 convertible?

Let's have someone build a Digitajet/fant one and bench test it for grins and giggles.

Duncan
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 8:31 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
Bar none, this is by far the stupidest question ever proposed in this or any thread ostensibly devoted to stupid questions.

Can Digifant 1 be modified to work on a similar displacement aircooled engine? I know the temp sender should be the major difference, but can it be tricked into providing an appropriate parameter for the ECU?

Asking for a friend.


Like Duncan said, "Don't know much about the intricacies of engine mapping......" I don't know much either (basically zero). But, "curiosity" eats at me occasionally, thus, I've considered installing Digifant (or maybe the AFC or Digijet) on a VAG 5-cylinder. Considering that all injectors "inject" at the same time, I reasoned that tapping into the signal from any one of the 4 injectors wouldn't matter. Sensors will definitely be the challenge.

That's as far as I've gone on this "curiosity" wildarse endeavor (oh, does anyone need a SA bell housing for a 5-cylinder)!

I did do a double relay (one open and one closed) to try and fool the ECU about the coolant temp sensor data on my TDI engine to improve a starting problem. But, it always threw a DTC and really never improved starting (very long story related to grounding issues).
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
Can Digifant 1 be modified to work on a similar displacement aircooled engine? I know the temp sender should be the major difference, but can it be tricked into providing an appropriate parameter for the ECU?


Possibly. Apparently, the late-model air-cooled Mexico Beetles use a form of Digifant: https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=34456 . Surprised
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

From the above post shop talk. The Mexican production "Digifant" is quite different than the Wasserboxer Digifant, and seems more closely related to the Corrado version some time back. The AC Beetle version has no vane-type flowmeter, relying instead on a throttle position sensor and manifold pressure sensor up in the control box with a sensing line to the throttle body. Idle speed control is integral, unlike the Vans which used a separate control unit and bypass valve.

The rpms holding high during cold shifting is normal for this construction, where the control unit is managing advance and injection based on OXS feedback and temperature. The new engines have no thermostats and are thus slow to warm up, so the control operates in warm-up mode longer, making this more obvious. I'm about to retrofit shutters and thermostat to mine to get faster warmup.

TomB

Guess I'll forget about this as it seems engineers have put a lot of time into AC engines with Digifant controlling and so as far as I'm concerned, there you have it.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 11:39 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Am I a bad person for using my Outfront Motorsports Subaru shortened oil pan as a lift point for the rear of my van. It is 3/16” thick bottom steel.
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