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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
Am I a bad person for using my Outfront Motorsports Subaru shortened oil pan as a lift point for the rear of my van. It is 3/16” thick bottom steel.


You are lifting the chassis via the engine mounts. Can it handle that? Don't know.
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 1:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
Am I a bad person for using my Outfront Motorsports Subaru shortened oil pan as a lift point for the rear of my van. It is 3/16” thick bottom steel.


Why would you put all the weight through the pan and mounts? Just put the floor jack on a frame member.
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 1:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:

Why would you put all the weight through the pan and mounts? Just put the floor jack on a frame member.


Faster/more convenient. Alright, I will stop being lazy. Or buy a lift.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2022 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
dobryan wrote:

Why would you put all the weight through the pan and mounts? Just put the floor jack on a frame member.


Faster/more convenient. Alright, I will stop being lazy. Or buy a lift.


How often do you need to lift the entire rear of the van? I typically just drive the rear tires up onto some form of ramp, anywhere between a single 2x6 to half length railroad tie with a ramp cut in one end. If I then need to lift one wheel I set a jack under the trailing arm on that side and only barely lift it off the ramp. Be sure to use wheel chocks of some sort on one or both front wheels if you go this route.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2023 10:55 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Do any body know the length of the chassis loom from the fuse box of the engine bay box and the length of the rear lighting loom from the black box to the rear left lamp?

I am in a foglamp project, I need to order wires, but my van is in sotrage away from me and I can't get to it until the weekend.
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ZsZ
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2023 4:38 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

ZsZ wrote:
Do any body know the length of the chassis loom from the fuse box of the engine bay box and the length of the rear lighting loom from the black box to the rear left lamp?

I am in a foglamp project, I need to order wires, but my van is in sotrage away from me and I can't get to it until the weekend.

I am lucky enough to have the rear lamp wire in the harness, but measured it for future reference : it is around 4.5m long. The left lamp to box is around a meter.
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BrownEye02
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 10:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Anyone know of an alternative replacement option for the automatic shift linkage rear rubber bellows? Looks like no one is offering a replacement at this time. Besides a full cable swap.....
PN: 211713269B
Eyeballing something like a motorcycle clutch cable bellows but wanted to see if someone else has come up with something.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 11:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BrownEye02 wrote:

PN: 211713269B


https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info2/211713269B.htm


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Mmmmm, looks too good to be true
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 11:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BrownEye02 wrote:
Anyone know of an alternative replacement option for the automatic shift linkage rear rubber bellows? Looks like no one is offering a replacement at this time. Besides a full cable swap.....
PN: 211713269B
Eyeballing something like a motorcycle clutch cable bellows but wanted to see if someone else has come up with something.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tada! Cheap plastic cable harness from FLAPS. And a zip-tie or two.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2023 5:33 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BrownEye02 wrote:
Anyone know of an alternative replacement option for the automatic shift linkage rear rubber bellows? Looks like no one is offering a replacement at this time. Besides a full cable swap.....
PN: 211713269B
Eyeballing something like a motorcycle clutch cable bellows but wanted to see if someone else has come up with something.


Check out a wrecking yard near you and look to see what various late model vehicles have that you might make use of.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

You are about to read the dumbest question ever posted on the intertubez. It's a doozy. A real failure to launch. A flop of nuts.

Here goes: Would it be possible to "trick" Digifant into functioning on a 2.0L aircooled Type 4 engine? I know the values for the temp sensor are different, so I'm guessing that would be the trip up...but is there a work around?
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
You are about to read the dumbest question ever posted on the intertubez. It's a doozy. A real failure to launch. A flop of nuts.

Here goes: Would it be possible to "trick" Digifant into functioning on a 2.0L aircooled Type 4 engine? I know the values for the temp sensor are different, so I'm guessing that would be the trip up...but is there a work around?


Maybe if there was a way to "immerse" the Digifant Temp Sensor in the Air-cool engine's oil. The warm-up of the sensor would probably be slower, or would it?
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

yep, not a stupid question..
and yep, it'd work mostly just fine.
I'd only have to really sus out the timing, as it's handled by the ECM in the digifant
the 1.9l Digijet dist would have a vac advance..

to make sure you had the right ign timing at the right rpm/load for the AC motor.
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 8:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Find out the impedance the Temp II sensor uses and the time it takes to warm up. Build a device that can match those impedance values either time related, or better yet by a thermistor which will mimic a water cooled engine. But how do you organize the throttle position switch? Or AFM sending units and the connection to the idle stabilizer control unit? You will need correct engine mapping. And is an air cooled engine OK even running on the mapping of a water cooled engine? And in the end, it seems you subject yourself to all the potential Vanagon Syndrome issues that everyone is trying to get way from.

It looks like MicroSquirt might offer a solution.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

What's interesting is that watercooled VW engines with the factory heat exchangers typically show oil and coolant temps at roughly the same level all up and down the scale. Using oil as the coolant medium would be interesting, but it seems like the ECU might dial back performance if the oil temps run outside of the Digifant coolant temp engine map parameters.

I would probably run the center plenum from the WBX and modify the AC intake runners to fit. I have a complete WBX engine here, hence the question. It works and I know the system. I haven't messed with L-Jet in well over twenty years.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2023 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

can the original sliding window screens with frames be installed with the windows in? the metal ones on each side - above the kitchen and on the slider?

thanks.

-cc-
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Walty87
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 11:13 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hey there!

Recently picked up a full westfalia interior. I have a country homes conversion, but I’ve taken out all of that existing interior.

Anyways, I plan to install the fresh water tank. From what I’ve read there may be a dimple from the factory where I would drill the tank drain hole?

I guess it’s a stupid question because I could go look at my van, but I’m at work and am just curious if those dimples are in every vanagon from factory?

Hope y’all have a great day
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Yes, the Westfalia floor hole dimples should be there in all Vanagons.

The water tank drain, the sink drain, etc.

If you empty out the old interior, clean the metal floor and place all the Westy floor cabinets in their spot you can see the tiny dimples right where they need to be.

Mark


Walty87 wrote:
Hey there!

Recently picked up a full westfalia interior. I have a country homes conversion, but I’ve taken out all of that existing interior.

Anyways, I plan to install the fresh water tank. From what I’ve read there may be a dimple from the factory where I would drill the tank drain hole?

I guess it’s a stupid question because I could go look at my van, but I’m at work and am just curious if those dimples are in every vanagon from factory?

Hope y’all have a great day
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 8:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

1982 diesel camper van: Have a serious question. Let’s be simple straight to the point. My fridge relay under driver seat has 5 connectors. I want to install an aux battery that will power my utilities with the engine off and not drain my starter battery .

Wiring harness from fuse panel has 1 red with continuous 12 volts and 1 blue has 12 volts while engine is running. Wiring harness coming from sink cabinet has 2 red wires with no volts.

… if, The terminals of a relay are defined as follows:

30 is the common or input voltage to be switched.
87a is the normally closed connection. This terminal is hot when the relay isn't energized, it is unpowered the relay is energized.
87 is the normally open connection. Powered only when the relay is energized.
85 is connected to the ground of the triggering voltage.
86 is connected to the positive 12V of the triggering voltage.

.. then what wires go to what terminal and what wires go to the aux battery. Oh yea and then could I attach a Chinese diesel heater to the aux battery.
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fxr
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

You misunderstand that relay - there's no 87A, but two 87's. The red +12V from the front goes to one of them, the other goes off on one of the other red wires to power the sink pump and monitoring panel. 30 is connected to the other red wire (Dometic fridge, only on when the van is running).
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