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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 2:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Shaggin, be forewarned that 'some' NEW e-brake cables don't fit into the backing plate properly. I had 2 pairs (cheap$) that I had to grind down the part that slides into the backing plate port some till they fit.
just be aware it's a possibility. allow enough time for 'obstacles' and fitment issues.

I adjust our ebrakes to 2-3 clicks. hold very well and a 4th click if imminent doom awaits.
shagginwagon83 wrote:
My e-brake cable takes like 4-5 clicks before it's 'active'.

I understand it could be tightened - but I figure I'd go ahead and replace the cables and rebuild the rear brakes.
I bought new:
-rear brake shoes
- drum brake brake hardware kit
-2 cylinders
-both ebrakes cables
4x Rubber Plug for Rear Brake Backing Plate


I am keeping the same drum. The van has 120k miles and it seems to be stopping alright. Is this alright or should I replace the drums while I am at it. Or is there anything I am missing?

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Abscate
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

llilibel03 wrote:
Here's a stupid one- I have a tiico. What exactly does tiico stand for?


I don't know but I had a tico reading this thread
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

llilibel03 wrote:
Here's a stupid one- I have a tiico. What exactly does tiico stand for?


Translating Interpreting International Company (TIICO)

Seems it is a "system" of using the old IDI Diesel engine hoses, associated parts, engine to transmission adapter, mounting brackets, oil pan, custom exhaust, etc., to install a VW In-line 4 cylinder engine in a Vanagon.

Several businesses still support the "concept" with parts, etc., such as Van Café, Foreign Auto & Supply, etc.

Google is your friend. You will find lots of links to stories here in the Samba and other places.
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 4:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

AndyBees wrote:
Translating Interpreting International Company (TIICO)

Seems it is a "system" of using the old IDI Diesel engine hoses, associated parts, engine to transmission adapter, mounting brackets, oil pan, custom exhaust, etc., to install a VW In-line 4 cylinder engine in a Vanagon.


The second part is correct, although, IIRC, TiiCo also sourced Audi engines (from South Africa) as well.

The first part, not so much: http://www.tiicotranslators.com/ ("Our goal is to provide quality interpretation and translation services to law firms, small businesses, industries, insurance carriers, healthcare providers and government agencies in the area of Southwest Florida.") Wink

According to the Wayback Machine, the official business name was Tii Trading Company, shortened to TiiCo, based in Cameron Park, California.
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

kamzcab86

Yep! I saw all those things and more about TIICO. I also stumbled on to a few dead links. And, that's why I put in that crazy translation ...LOL

Also, that's why I suggested to the OP that Google is his friend.

And, I have to say, while surfing the interwebs, I certainly filled-in the missing gaps on my knowledge of the TIICO package!

Thanks for your additional and clarifying info!
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

What I heard was the founder was a fan of the BMW 2002 tii and wanted to name his company after that. No idea how that made any sense but it's what I heard…
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SyncroChrick
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I have one...

What's the best circlip plier I can buy online to reach inside the block and remove the piston? (well let's say under $50....). Straight or angle?

Is this a good option?

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-External-Straight-Ci...clip+plier

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-175mm-Degree-Externa...clip+plier

I am traveling right now and I'd like to have it home this weekend...I have a cheapo kit from HF but I don't think it's going to cut it...

Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Another option that appears to be a more competitive price...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7inch-External-Straight-R...SwsXFZJklA


https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Heavy-Duty-Internal-Ben...SwBt5ZJklA
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

SyncroChrick wrote:
I have one...

What's the best circlip plier I can buy online to reach inside the block and remove the piston? (well let's say under $50....). Straight or angle?

Is this a good option?

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-External-Straight-Ci...clip+plier

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-175mm-Degree-Externa...clip+plier

I am traveling right now and I'd like to have it home this weekend...I have a cheapo kit from HF but I don't think it's going to cut it...

Smile


Take a file to the end of any needle nose plier you have and shape to fit.
been doing it for years!
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:04 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Radiator replacement coming soon. My 83.5 Westy has ~120k stock miles. It has been well taken care of. The fuel hoses were all in good shape on the inside ( I STILL REPLACED THEM).

Anyhow, how important is it to replace the mile-long coolant hoses in my van? II want to do this eventually - but I'd rather wait til I can replace the gas tank at same time. But if I'm replacing the radiator should I go ahead and knock the coolant hose job out?

My fan might be only working on one speed. I haven't tested this at the actual fan. If it turns out to be bad - do people upgrade to the 86+ fan?

Also does anyone know what brand radiator RMW sells

GoWesty sells a Behr version for like 15 bucks cheaper but I want the best one.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:12 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:


Anyhow, how important is it to replace the mile-long coolant hoses in my van? II want to do this eventually - but I'd rather wait til I can replace the gas tank at same time. But if I'm replacing the radiator should I go ahead and knock the coolant hose job out?


Your van would have come with steel tubes to carry the coolant from one end to the other. If your van has hoses, then someone has already replaced the coolant tubes and you'll have to assess them on their own merits.
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:15 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
shagginwagon83 wrote:


Anyhow, how important is it to replace the mile-long coolant hoses in my van? II want to do this eventually - but I'd rather wait til I can replace the gas tank at same time. But if I'm replacing the radiator should I go ahead and knock the coolant hose job out?


Your van would have come with steel tubes to carry the coolant from one end to the other. If your van has hoses, then someone has already replaced the coolant tubes and you'll have to assess them on their own merits.


Yeah they're metal. So that means they probably don't need to be replaced?
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

WRONG
they should be very carefully inspected while you have the cooling system empty.
the stock metal pipes corrode in blisters that leak then rupture.

they corrode the most in the least accessible places.. most notably by the transmission where they bend up along the firewall down by the shift linkage..

also up over the fuel tank.. of course. Rolling Eyes

shagginwagon83 wrote:
Jake de Villiers wrote:
shagginwagon83 wrote:


Anyhow, how important is it to replace the mile-long coolant hoses in my van? II want to do this eventually - but I'd rather wait til I can replace the gas tank at same time. But if I'm replacing the radiator should I go ahead and knock the coolant hose job out?


Your van would have come with steel tubes to carry the coolant from one end to the other. If your van has hoses, then someone has already replaced the coolant tubes and you'll have to assess them on their own merits.


Yeah they're metal. So that means they probably don't need to be replaced?

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MayorMcCheese
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

If I take an engine case to the machine shop to be tanked or jet washed will it take care of the corrosion?

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68kmgvert
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I know I’ve seen threads that show this but in searching I have been unable to find the answer, so please don’t throw anything...
I am trying to refresh my propane tanks but I can’t get them off my Syncro. I have been able to loosen the bolts but after I got them loose they just kept spinning. I cannot get to the other side of them because the PO installed a nice oak floor that I do not want to have to remove. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 6:01 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

You can grab the thread above the nut with a thin vise grip and turn the nut off. If someone put the nuts under the floor and bolts down you will have to Dremel off the heads, and loctite new nuts on after chasing, cursing the PO the whole time. Lifting the floor is probably easier, or drilling plugs to access the nuts. Measure thrice, cut twice
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

68kmgvert wrote:
I know I’ve seen threads that show this but in searching I have been unable to find the answer, so please don’t throw anything...
I am trying to refresh my propane tanks but I can’t get them off my Syncro. I have been able to loosen the bolts but after I got them loose they just kept spinning. I cannot get to the other side of them because the PO installed a nice oak floor that I do not want to have to remove. Any suggestions?
Thanks!


You can also try this.

If you can fit the Dremel tool with the small carbide cutting disk on it you can cut a slot into the end turning the bolt into a screw so then you can hold it without turning or turn it holding the nut so you can unscrew the nut off.
Do your best to clean the threads as best possible.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:20 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

MayorMcCheese wrote:
If I take an engine case to the machine shop to be tanked or jet washed will it take care of the corrosion?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In general -No. It just degreases it with soap in most shops. The hot soaps do not remove rust or clean corrosion. It "hot" because heat softens up the grease andd oils for the soap just like doing dishes.
If you want to clean the interior water passages it is best done with a radiator flush mild acid when the engine is running before taking the engine apart.

That's been my experience.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:40 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

The Dremmel idea might work. The bolts are facing down. Not sure how I might then tighten up the new nuts enough to make the tanks secure when reinstalling?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 2:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

68kmgvert wrote:
The Dremmel idea might work. The bolts are facing down. Not sure how I might then tighten up the new nuts enough to make the tanks secure when reinstalling?


It would be easy to use the screw-slot method or this more complicated way.

Use 3 nuts.
1st one screw on with washer and lock washer.

Then screw 2 more on and "jam" tighten them against each other.

Then you can hold the jammed nuts to keep the bolt from turning when you tighten down the 1st nut.

Take the jam nuts off to uses on next bolt.
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