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ECU 76 VW Type 2
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mhale
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:28 pm    Post subject: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

I am looking for a ECU for a 76 Type 2 Transporter. I am new at chasing parts for cars. Bosch 0280000139 or VW 022906021 N. I am trying to upgrade my old bus but am having trouble keeping it running. I am not a mechanic but have recently got some help with the issue. Issue is sometimes it just quits running and it doesnt care where it is. I have replaced:Distributor Cap, Points, Spark Plugs. Plug Wires, Repaired fuel hoses replaced clamps on them and vaccum lines, Replaced Fuel Filter and the Fuel pump works, Replaced engine housing seal, Cleaned throttle body and replaced air filter. When it quits it is like it is out of fuel but it is not. I can give it a shot of starter fluid and it will start but not keep running. A guy today put a NOID light on it and said injectors were not firing replace the ECU so I am looking for that now.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:24 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

Welcome to TheSamba!

There is none available in the classifieds.

Try google
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=022+906+021+N

Good luck
Tcash
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:25 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

Welcome to TheSamba, Bay Window Bus Forum!

73-79 NEWBIE

Tcash wrote:
Every Type IV engine owner should know this!!!

If you over tighten the Oil Strainer bolt, you will brake the engine case!
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There is a Oil strainer in there.
TORQUE THE STRAINER BOLT TO NO MORE THAN 9 FT. LBS.


Tcash wrote:
Here is a little information. Good Luck

Pictures would be cool.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:27 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

click on link
Fuel injection conversion shopping list - parts required FAQ
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:31 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

Check your resistor pack and the wiring harness plug carefully. ECU does not have a reputation as being the culprit.

Bad or loose wiring harness, intermittent ground issues (did you clean the group ground connector under the inlet plenum and renew the female spade connectors to that?)... these are far more common than a bad ECU.

My post ignores your request, but offers an alternative.

The Bentley actually has a comprehensive fuel injection component test process.
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aerosurfer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:52 am    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

Agree what he said above, check everything else thoroughly before you go diving into replacing the ecu. They are pretty robust, but I did have an intermittent issue with mine that led me to swap out as well as acquire a spare.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=670981&highlight=

However if you do, the ECUs are essentially the same throughout the years and are interchangeable. Contact Ken at the ThebusCo.com he'll have one.

Do you have the FI manual?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi_training_troubleshooting_manual.php
_________________
Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)


Last edited by aerosurfer on Tue Sep 12, 2017 5:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 4:23 am    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

It would be pretty rare for the ECU to go bad. Not saying it could not happen but pretty rare.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

I'd be looking at the crimp connectors really well, and also the connector to the ballast pack as suggested. That white wire to the ECU is known to break inside the vinyl jacket right where the crimp is. That will drive you nuts because it will work one minute and not the next. Also we have seen bad condensors on the buses do that. The ECU relies on a healthy signal from the points opening and closing.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I'd be looking at the crimp connectors really well, and also the connector to the ballast pack as suggested. That white wire to the ECU is known to break inside the vinyl jacket right where the crimp is. That will drive you nuts because it will work one minute and not the next. Also we have seen bad condensors on the buses do that. The ECU relies on a healthy signal from the points opening and closing.


On my '77 one of the wires to the four resistors broke right where it crimps to the resistor. It took awhile to figure this out, because it was not obvious and the symptoms indicated tune-up issues like points, condenser, fuel supply or valve lash. It was a surprise to find how much influence having just one disabled resistor could cause. Take a look... that plug to the resistor pack is just hanging there... since the late 1970's Shocked so it's quite a novelty that it didn't fail earlier.

Here's the resistor pack... upper left corner (on my 1978 bus) with the four black wires...

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As far as crimp connectors go, where the wire meets the crimp is often a point of stress. You can't see the break. But you can jiggle it and feel the softness and also sometimes have the circuit immediately react. My policy is to routinely replace crimp and spade connectors with quality connectors as I go through the circuits.

People spend a shitload of time arguing about tires and oil, but these machines are basically layers of systems and each system needs equal attention. You should read the prevailing negativity about the refrigerators in the Vanagon forum... but I took the time to learn about how Dometic built them, and I removed mine and serviced it properly. My grub is always cold. My evap core always starts to build up ice after a few days of use.
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aerosurfer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: ECU 76 VW Type 2 Reply with quote

Wasted youth wrote:
SGKent wrote:
I'd be looking at the crimp connectors really well, and also the connector to the ballast pack as suggested. That white wire to the ECU is known to break inside the vinyl jacket right where the crimp is. That will drive you nuts because it will work one minute and not the next. Also we have seen bad condensors on the buses do that. The ECU relies on a healthy signal from the points opening and closing.


On my '77 one of the wires to the four resistors broke right where it crimps to the resistor. It took awhile to figure this out, because it was not obvious and the symptoms indicated tune-up issues like points, condenser, fuel supply or valve lash. It was a surprise to find how much influence having just one disabled resistor could cause. Take a look... that plug to the resistor pack is just hanging there... since the late 1970's Shocked so it's quite a novelty that it didn't fail earlier.

Here's the resistor pack... upper left corner (on my 1978 bus) with the four black wires...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As far as crimp connectors go, where the wire meets the crimp is often a point of stress. You can't see the break. But you can jiggle it and feel the softness and also sometimes have the circuit immediately react. My policy is to routinely replace crimp and spade connectors with quality connectors as I go through the circuits.

People spend a shitload of time arguing about tires and oil, but these machines are basically layers of systems and each system needs equal attention. You should read the prevailing negativity about the refrigerators in the Vanagon forum... but I took the time to learn about how Dometic built them, and I removed mine and serviced it properly. My grub is always cold. My evap core always starts to build up ice after a few days of use.


I have a fix for that too....

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=660153&highlight=
_________________
Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)
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