Valve adjustment question/problem solving

[cocopuffsman]

just adjusted my valves using the fallowing method (below)... with the exception that my valve #3 exhaust and my cylinder #4 intake valve seem to have no clearance for adjusting? what could be some causes for this and is my method incorrect?



Method used:
Valves (110 cam) 004 clearance with feeler gauge
1) put the motor at top dead center. You will know by slightly twisting the pulley and you will see the #2 exhaust valve moving.
2) adjust the #1 intake and exhaust and #2 intake.
3) adjust the #4 exhaust valve.
4) turn the motor over 360 degrees.
5) adjust the #2 exhaust valve
6) adjust the #3 intake and exhaust and the #4 intake.
7) you are done.
Basically you are setting it at TDC, adjusting 3 valves on one side and 1 on the other side. Turn the motor 360 degrees and adjust all the valves you haven't adjusted yet. Boom, done.
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[cocopuffsman]

[oldschool5er]

You have swivel feet and chrome moly pushrods so I use loose zero not .004 for that setup. There are threads here on how to do loose zero adjustments. You would use the same sequence that you did. The valve is set by adjusting the swivel from snug to where the pushrod just turns with your two fingers. I noticed the center lower studs are digging into the rocker spacer, if that is the case I would double check they are not hitting and holding the rocker shaft stands from sitting fully on the head or are causing lack of running clearance for the rockers also.

[Pruneman99]

With the stock rockers and swivel feet, the rockers sometimes need to be cut back to allow for proper adjustment.

Did you build this engine and verify rocker geometry?

[fivelugshortaxle]

[cocopuffsman]

[FreeBug]

[cocopuffsman]

[Pruneman99]

The cylinders may be different length than the ones removed altering your rocker geometry. Adding/removing cylinder shims, decking the case etc will move the heads closer/further from the case as well.

Rocker geometry always needs checked when something on the long block is changed.

With the stock rockers and swivel feet, the rockers really need to be back cut for proper geometry, but sometimes you can get away without it with less than perfect geometry or rocker block shims. Not saying it's right, but sometimes it works ok.

Obviously yours are bottomed out so you need to get different rockers, have yours cut back, or *correct* the rocker geometry so there is some adjustment available.

Are you using stock length pushrods, or cut to length?

[cocopuffsman]

[Pruneman99]

Well it could solve the issue, could compund it. You.need to work out your rocker geometry.

Tons of threads on that here, pick your poison. Different strokes for different folks for setting that up.

Like I said before, usually the stock rockers need to be back cut to make it work right.

When you move the rockers further from the heads, you might need longer pushrods. It has to be measured. If you just start tossing shims in there to fix the problem of no adjustment on the swivel feet, you can really mess other things up.

I tore down a mostly stock engine that had just a few hours on it and the exhaust valve guides we're nearly eaten through because the geometry was so bad. But the engine ate some other pieces first. I don't think the builder measured anything.

[Dale M.]

Anybody notice threads on rocker arm studs...

And note the coupler nut used to secure valve covers....

Little bit of "cringe factor" there for me....

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[FeelthySanchez]

Dale nailed it on the stripped rocker stud. Good eye & those clear pics helped a bunch.
I'll add: Make sure the #4 plug hole is not cracked (appears a bit so).
The motor oil will be "glittery" from that chafed blue aluminum rocker arm spacer. Hope that a FFF was employed here. If not, time to add one.

You've a bunch of work ahead of ya ..... R&R the stripped rocker arm stud(s), shorten (or screw-in deeper) the head studs, retorque the heads, clearance the rockers, then re-set rocker geometry.
p.s: It's nice to see a 32 NDIX again!
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[mark tucker]

[nsracing]

If the cam is not stock, do NOT adjust intake and exhaust at the same time.

Any cam w/ more duration and more overlap, adjust each by itself. So..if you are going to do the intake, just do the intake until you are happy. Then move on to the exhaust so on.

Otherwise, you will come back here later and say that there is some unusual noises coming out of the case and the engine runs like crap.

This is getting old. How many times are we going to have threads on valve adjustments?