Another syncro Doka arrives!... or "WTF did I just do!?!"

[Alaskaberrys]

Well, next up was to restore the drivers side window to operational status. It had rolled down and refuse to come up for Busman at the docks in Belgium - all he could do was hastily throw up some self sticking plastic.

Plus I wanted to see what might be feeding this scary little pustule in the middle of the door. Pretty sure I knew....

So, once in the shop and window regulator removed and cleaned and awaiting a new little plastic bit that had disintegrated I did some exploring. The Doka received a new paint job some years back and looks like a fairly extensive rust remediation job was done - lots of Por-15 on the chassis, rubber undercoating over that on the rockers with paint on top of that (opposite the GoWesty look). Good paint job - windows out, new rubber, don’t think they had the dash out, but doors were off too. Attention paid to inside cavities and such.

But they missed some spots.....

Dead center of the door, hardest spot to reach. Right behind the bleb.

Well, treating the inside of the door cavity was relatively easy, brushed, blew, scrapped and cleaned and treated with POR-15, but now it looks like I’ll be detailing the outside too.

Might be a good spot for my business logo
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[0to60in6min]

where did you get that Nikota workbench?

[Alaskaberrys]

Our local candy store - Alaska Industrial Hardware. Got it quite a few years back. Had to buy a Doka to matching it.
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[CdnVWJunkie]

Cool Syncro. I love the Escorial green.

In regards to your poor starting. I'd check the basics: proper operation of the GPs, no fuel is getting into your fuel system and timing. Also I'm not sure if you're aware of the AAZs achilles heel: crank sprocket key way wear. Unusual starting characteristics with AAZs can often be attributed to wear between the sprocket and crank snout. Take a 19mm or 3/4" 12pt socket and put it on the crank bolt and gently move it back and forth. If you can discern any movement in this union needs to be dealt with quick.

[0to60in6min]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Alaskaberrys]

[snowsyncro]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Alaskaberrys]

In between sorties of rust search and destroy, I've been slowly piling up more tasks to add to the green beast "to-do" list....

First, the cab height Vindic Canopy arrived!

I had it shipped from Wyoming, bought it from a Samaba add.

The seller disclosed its issues (besides its being 26 years old). Door damage, no keys and the struts were all toast. But pretty nice condition otherwise.

.

The seller did an amazing job of crating it up, I got lucky there. It would NOT have arrived as it did without them willing to source a large pallet and wrap it all up. Three shipping hops - one truck, one barge and a ferry ride - got it here and it arrived in the shape it left in (no I won't share how much I paid in freight ). These canopies are not known for their strength, in fact I'm hoping to dream up a way to beef up the main canopy in a fashion that would allow a roof top tent. Probably going to be adding a metal arch to the rear and fiberglassing that in. Still in the planning stages there....

First unpack, give it all a good going over and start disassembly;

Hey! Found a beer! Thanks

Six struts to source;

Most of the hardware looks restorable. Might need new handles if I want the locks to work, but after replacing some screws and bolts I think all will work as it should.

To the repair work. Cut out the broken fiberglass and started with the repair;

Then fiberglass filler - note how indented the whole area above the break was. Curious how it was damaged;

1st prime coat sanded. I'm not going to go crazy with the little imperfections, but am wanting to practice for that rust repair on the doka body

3rd and final prime coat;

Krylon rattle can white on the well cleaned inside and refinsihed outside;

Now only two more doors and the top itself....oh boy.

Anybody have info on the rear leg mounts?

Looks like they should be flush with the bed, but looks as tho this doka never had a Vindic mounted as no tell tale holes...
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[fleet_maintenance]

Looks like you are off to the races. I've always had a soft spot for Dokas. Nice job on the glass work.

[Alaskaberrys]

[syncrodemaya]

Hey AlaskaB! Here's some photos of the struts I'm using on the doors and also those mounts to the truck bed, looks like you have it in the right spot:

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'88 Sunroof Syncro 2.1L

[Alaskaberrys]

[elizer]

When you get to the rattle can keep the cans warm especially since you are in AK. You can set them in a bucket of hot water and shake the living crap out of them before you start. Do multiple thin layers. Do not be like me and get and spray a layer on a wet layer.

I have done a lot of rattle can and I never follow my own advice. It always turns out ok. Never the best but I have seen some amazing results from people who are more patient than me.

[syncrodemaya]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Those canopies must have sheetmetal frames inside if they're using rivets to attach the hardware. Just a random observation.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Alaskaberrys]