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tmart
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Joined: July 16, 2017
Posts: 176
Location: CA
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 Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:18 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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I got new rods and rod bearings from Van Cafe, the 2.2L piston/cylinder kit from GW.
The machine shop disassembled the crank and is now polishing and reassembling with new bearings (also from Van Cafe) but reusing the drive gears. Not sure if this is what you meant about what the shop's doing with the main bearings (if not what did you mean, should I get them to do more?)
I also got a new set of heads from GW and am replacing all the lifters and the two pushrods/tubes that were bent when I got the engine.
I think that sums up my plans, although I may have forgotten a thing or two. |
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IdahoDoug
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Location: N. Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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OK, good. So they gave you new non-stretch rod bolts, eh? And I'd have the shop hang the connecting rods and also install the new main bearings and verify clearance there. Those are two important steps that take experience. So you'll get a block back bolted together and ready to build starting with cylinders, pistons, etc would be my recommendation.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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tmart
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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Yep, got the non-stretch by my measure:
Can I ask why the shop should put the rods on? It doesn't seem like that'd be such a difficult step to me. Splitting these rods when I got them was a pain though. |
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djkeev
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tmart
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Posts: 176
Location: CA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 9:49 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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Hmm, I think I may give the rods a go myself - if that doesn't work out, I'll head to the shop then. They seem pretty pricey (to me, but I don't really have anything to base that on): $150 to get the crank polished cleaned and reassembled.
I did check the wrist pin fit, one was a little off but I switched to a different rod and it fit perfect. Man, no clearance is a cool feeling.
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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| Doing the rods is easy, just be careful not to scratch up the crank journal with the rod bolts and make sure the bearing inserts are fully in place before torquing down the nuts. |
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djkeev
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MarkWard
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:41 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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The crankshaft needs to be put in the crank grinding fixture to even just polish it. So it is not a simple as you might think. Did they assemble the case too for $150? If so, you got a good deal. Especially if they assembled it correctly.
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tmart
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:14 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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No, the only assembly from them was the drive gears onto the shaft.
I have no doubt they could assemble everything, case included, correctly though - they build the engines for GW. That said, where's the fun in having someone else do all the work for me.
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tmart
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 4:59 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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I just got a Haynes manual (really wish I had this sooner), and does anyone have any input on this: It says "The numbers on the ends of the cap and rod must be together and the same, and the forged marks on the rods must be uppermost when in the normal running position." Does the forged marks thing mean anything to anyone? Is it referring to the stamped numbers?
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djkeev
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tmart
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| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 8:06 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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Ya, that part I know. The part that's confusing me some is the second half of that sentence regarding the forged marks being uppermost?
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djkeev
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MarkWard
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| Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:45 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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One side of the middle of the rod beam should have about an inch long cast ridge. With the rods assembled to the crank, looking down the casting marks should be facing up.
These are reman rods and the numbers may not match top to bottom. So do not trust the numbers. Make your own markings with a center punch or a number punch so that you don't mix them up during assembly.
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tmart
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| Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:21 am Post subject: Re: Engine Block Studs |
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Ahh I see, thanks for filling me in. Of course, right after reading this I found it pointed out in Bentley.
The numbers on my connecting rods all match up luckily, makes it easier for me to keep track. I have been marking the rods and pistons to keep them paired though. I just posted a big update on my progress here if you guys are interested: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=689393&start=20
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