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valve slipping
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:53 pm    Post subject: valve slipping Reply with quote

Hi, last summer I did a 1000 mile highway roadtrip and had to adjust Cyl #3 exhaust valve 4 times (to increase gap). I did notice the engine miss about 4 times also. CHT never rose above 425F. Other valves held their clearances. I'm planning a trip 8 times that long this winter and expect that adjusting valves every 250 miles will be problematic, if not fatal. I've had issues with valve seats sinking/dropping before but very rarely since driving with a CHT. The motor was rebuilt (top/bottom) about 4000 miles ago or less.

Thx, Andrew
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 11:45 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

Model year? Engine type?
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:44 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

1979 panel hightop Bay
2 liter FI
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my59
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:30 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

Recessed valve seat or valve stretching.....but why are you increasing gap? 79 FI would be hydro lifters if it was stock, and your adjustment would be 1.5 to 2 turns after contact of adjustment tip.
What was done during rebuild?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:32 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

If you are having to adjust your valve lash that often with solid lifters then the head needs to come off and be properly rebuilt or replaced with a new one.

If you have hydraulic lifters, four adjustments of 0.006" each would add up to .024" total or about 1/4 turn of the screw. Photographing the head would be a good way to keep track of the position of the screws.
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

I'm using solid lifters
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williamM
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

Shocked X2 on head rework- How many miles on the engine since overhaul and who's heads are on there now-- WAY better than dropping a valve- [img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:24 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

(1) how old are the heads? Or were the heads rebuilt or replaced with new, and who did the work?

(2) how much did you have to adjust them?

(3) was the engine cold each time you did the adjustment?
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

not sure of age of heads, were rebuilt approx 4k miles ago by The Bug Shop in Delta BC Canada. Each adjustment was from no gap to .008" with engine cold
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:26 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

the heads need to be replaced. Buy new ones from Len Hoffman. https://newsite.hamheads.com/2017/01/16/vw-2-0-transporter-cylinderheads/

It is possible a valve is stretching or a seat was not put in right, but you have a long voyage ahead so I would not trust the heads you have on it now. These bus engines were kinda built with disposable heads. They really run hot because of how they are used. Original heads for a 1979 bus are almost 40 years old with most of their life severe service due to the temps they run at. What you are seeing is not uncommon.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 12:12 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

People use the term “rebuilt engine” loosely. One guys rebuild isn’t equal to another guys rebuild. T4 heads seem to be the biggest failure point on these engines. That’s why it’s very important to include the highest quality possible and I’ve seen a pair of these heads cost $700 to rebuild. That’s was roughly 8 years ago.
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 9:57 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

Hi, I just purchased a new 1800cc AMC head from CIP. The studs were not installed but included in a separate bag. I need to know the torque specs for the different studs ie rocker-arm, intake, exhaust studs.

Thx, Andrew
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:10 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

skimhead wrote:
Hi, I just purchased a new 1800cc AMC head from CIP. The studs were not installed but included in a separate bag. I need to know the torque specs for the different studs ie rocker-arm, intake, exhaust studs.

Thx, Andrew


When needed I just look such things up in one of the various shop manuals I own. Haynes, Bentley, Muir, or any of several others all have this info.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:49 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

skimhead wrote:
Hi, I just purchased a new 1800cc AMC head from CIP. The studs were not installed but included in a separate bag. I need to know the torque specs for the different studs ie rocker-arm, intake, exhaust studs.

Thx, Andrew

I do recall the exhaust stud nuts are about 14 foot pounds.
Ridiculously low, but VW assumes your heat exchanger support struts are
still intact to hold some of the weight (mine weren't) I went to 18-20 ft/lbs
with new copper self-locking nuts. The studs themselves are just a snug fit
in the castings, all those nuts are supposed to be well under 20 ft/lbs.
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:54 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

manuals do not contain info on stud installation torque just nut torques
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tommu
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:11 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

You'll need to search around for previous discussions, like this one:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553943

I think you're looking more for an idea of stud installation technique than specific torque values. Of course once the stud are in then nut torque is critical.
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:32 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

any tips on stud installation appreciated thx
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Joey
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 4:20 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

I've always just jammed two nuts together on the stud, screw the stud in and lightly tighten it. Maybe 5 ft-lbs.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 4:52 am    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

skimhead wrote:
any tips on stud installation appreciated thx


There is no torque spec on stud installation because the stud is torqued when the nut is applied not when the stud is installed. You just need to get each stud in sufficiently deep, which in most cases on the heads will mean it is lightly bottoming out. You can use a tape measure to see if all the studs of the same type went in about the same depth, if one stud is sticking out 1/8" or more than the others you should check to find out why it isn't going in further. A drop of oil on the threads will ease installation.
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skimhead
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 12:00 pm    Post subject: Re: valve slipping Reply with quote

thank you all for your information
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