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67-74 door striker
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Andre@KGPR/Airhead wrote:
Yeah, sorry for going all off topic, I was just commenting on E.V.'s avatar.

But on a super duper related note, I shared a couple of houses in a couple of states with Jesse Hughes too-- the dude from Eagles of Death Metal, which is the band from the Paris Bataclan terrorist attack.

This is us in 96, when my now wife & him & I all lived in South Carolina for a minute.
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When we moved back to CA, my brother helped him find a super original 67 Squareback in Long Beach. SUPER original, except a front fender had been hit and replaced with one painted gold (tan car). It was 2k at the time. Anyone know this car?

Gah-- I'm super off topic still. Too much coffee. Door strikers!


Wuuuuuut!!! Wow, is that Jesse playing drums? Dude, he looks like a baby.
Anyway, that's awesome he owned a square back!
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Currently own:
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99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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rbsurfguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 11:36 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Era Vulgaris,
I decided to take on this rebuild thanks to your excellent thread, and being the first(?) to at least document it in the Ghia forums. I figured since I had two sets of strikers that if I screwed one up I have a back up. I have some observations and some questions, which are in no way to take away from your work and effort. In your thread, you show the dowel pins you had to remove. From the pictures, it looks like you began knocking them out from the back, or the part number side. I noticed the small dimples, which in my experience means that may have been the original point where they were inserted into the striker, also showing somewhat of a lip around the edge of the pin. I took a chance and hammered from the other side, and only took about three normal hits, and then pulled the pins with some pliers. I was kind of amazed at how easy they came out, and they did also have some of the rust as yours showed, I sprayed a little Liquid Wrench prior to hammering, and they basically came right out. I did still have to use the screwdriver to pry the plate up, but again, not so bad. The only real problem I had was not getting the chance to swear at the part as much as you apparently got to, and didn't enjoy the frustration, a little let down! Confused

Another question/observation I had was, when putting the assembly back together with the new plastic insert, you show how the top plate won't go over the new insert. You talk about and show that you ground down the bushing to get it to fit. Question: Do you think if I ground/smoothed down the edge of the insert, lowering 'it's' profile rather than grinding down the bushing? I'm just wondering if you or someone else could chime in and see if that would work. I'm already committed, so once I get the rebuild parts I will put together. For now, the parts are off to zinc plating.

Thanks for any comments and for the great "How To"!
Jeff
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xzener
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Well... This is not an easy task, but got the pins out and rotated the plates. Ready for new plastic pieces. Going to get them on order. Thanks for the great tutorial.
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

rbsurfguy wrote:
Era Vulgaris,
In your thread, you show the dowel pins you had to remove. From the pictures, it looks like you began knocking them out from the back, or the part number side. I noticed the small dimples, which in my experience means that may have been the original point where they were inserted into the striker, also showing somewhat of a lip around the edge of the pin. I took a chance and hammered from the other side, and only took about three normal hits, and then pulled the pins with some pliers. I was kind of amazed at how easy they came out, and they did also have some of the rust as yours showed, I sprayed a little Liquid Wrench prior to hammering, and they basically came right out.


So you're saying they came out easier hammering from the front? I may have mentioned that I had no idea what I was doing! Laughing I also don't think I really had the "appropriate" tools. I was just kind of winging it with what I had. Powering through the job on determination and bluster because I had no backup strikers! Laughing
It appeared on mine that the "mushroomed" end on the front was wider for a friction fit. My lack of knowledge in rivets of this size, led me to assume that the mushroomed end on the front was how they were hammered in originally. Which was why I hammered them out from the back side.
If hammering from the front works better, that's awesome!

rbsurfguy wrote:
Another question/observation I had was, when putting the assembly back together with the new plastic insert, you show how the top plate won't go over the new insert. You talk about and show that you ground down the bushing to get it to fit. Question: Do you think if I ground/smoothed down the edge of the insert, lowering 'it's' profile rather than grinding down the bushing?


No, do not lower the profile of the new insert. It's width is perfect to fit between the two plates. If you make it slimmer, it'll be loose between the plates once you get everything back together.
The issue here is that the large dowel/rivet that the two plates rotate around probably ought to be able to be disconnected (I assume that when these were made at the factory the plates were initially separate and it all went together like making a sandwich).

The problem comes from trying to fit the "cup" in the top plate back over the insert as you rotate the top plate back into position, with the insert installed on the rear plate. The path of least resistance, that I found, was to go the opposite route: turn the assembly upside down, install the insert onto the top plate with some material ground away from the bushings, and then rotate the rear plate over it.
Like I mentioned, as long as there's enough material left on the bushings that they can still grab the rear plate, that's all you need. Because once it's installed onto the car, the mounting screws that hold it to the car, along with the re-installed dowel/rivets, will prevent anything from coming loose.
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Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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xzener
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 7:28 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Following your method so far has worked out well so far Ezra. I will say that removing any old plastic pieces made it much easier to turn the plates.
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 6:04 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

xzener wrote:
Well... This is not an easy task, but got the pins out and rotated the plates. Ready for new plastic pieces. Going to get them on order. Thanks for the great tutorial.


Cheers, glad to be of help!
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Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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rbsurfguy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Thanks. After I received my plastic inserts, the only obstacle I had was to grind out the large holes to better fit over the large dowels, which I did using a half round file, when properly sized, they slipped over the dowels, and then I rotated the plates over everything with no problem. Tapped back in the small dowels/rivets, they look like brand new.

So while I didn't have to go through the same frustration you had, thanks to your efforts, it definitely allowed me to get this done. I also would not have known where to purchase the inserts without your knowledge, so thanks again!


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Jeff
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1971 Ghia convertible (Body off rebuild)
2019 VW Atlas 4Motion
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:45 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

rbsurfguy wrote:
Thanks. After I received my plastic inserts, the only obstacle I had was to grind out the large holes to better fit over the large dowels, which I did using a half round file, when properly sized, they slipped over the dowels, and then I rotated the plates over everything with no problem. Tapped back in the small dowels/rivets, they look like brand new.

So while I didn't have to go through the same frustration you had, thanks to your efforts, it definitely allowed me to get this done. I also would not have known where to purchase the inserts without your knowledge, so thanks again!


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Jeff


That's interesting. Your plates look completely different from mine. The machining and overall design is totally different. Yours has contours on the rear plate that mine didn't have. I didn't have those dimples where the small rivets/dowels went in, which might explain why yours came out easier from the front. And it looks like the "cup" on your front plate isn't anywhere as deep as mine was, which was where the difficulty in reassembly came for me. And my top and bottom plates were the same thickness, where yours appear to have different thicknesses.
Any chance your plates are aftermarket? Otherwise it looks like the design of these must have changed at some point, as mine would've been the very first year for them.

Anyway, glad to be of help!
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Currently own:
66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue


Last edited by Era Vulgaris on Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:48 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Side by side.
You can see my rear plate was totally flat without any of those dimples or contours.

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Currently own:
66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:18 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Originals will have the part number and R or L (Right/ Left).
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rbsurfguy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 1:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

I guess they could be different by years, mine is a 71. Here is a photo of the back side after plating:


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Then after placing inserts and prior to closing up.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


They have to be somewhat similar as I ordered the same part you did and they fit perfectly.

Interesting the shapes or designs might be different, I thought ours looked the same, but didn't look too closely to notice the differences.

Trust me, I was kind of pissed that they went together so easy and I didn't get to swear and pound on them more....I am always up for a pressure release!!!

Jeff
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

I guess they must have been redesigned at some point, because here was the big issue that cause me a lot of grief on mine. You see how the cup in the top plate fits way deep down into the recess created by the large bushing. Getting that deep cup over the insert was the point that caused me the most swearing!
It looks like yours isn't quite as deep, which probably made reassembly a lot easier for you. Possibly a re-design by VW to fix that very problem!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm jealous yours went together so easy. The grass is always greener, right! Cool

Unfortunately I sold my car a couple months ago, so the pics in this thread are all I have now for comparison.
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Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Ah, hey look at this. Different part numbers! Perhaps a clue that it was redesigned.

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Currently own:
66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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rbsurfguy
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 6:33 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

I definitely see the difference now comparing the two photos. Mine definitely looks like an updated model. Either way I did swear a couple of times, mostly just F@*& that went together easily, and G&@ D*%$&!^ I didn't get to slam those pins as much!! Savor the pics, perhaps you will get to enjoy another one again!!
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demley
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 4:50 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Just finished redoing my striker. Mine is a '67, bought the SMC pieces. Knocked the rivets from the front, took about 3 taps to get them out. Enlarged the hole on the plastic pieces for the bushings, DID NOT grind down the bushings rotated the plate back, put the rivets in, put the striker back on the car....works perfect.
Thanks for the lead on this it worked well.
Don
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:15 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Has anyone ever tried replacing the main pin? mine is damaged, short of replacing the whole striker, (the rest of which is in good condition), I'd like to see if i can refurb it.
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xzener
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Ordered my replacement pieces. Will have mine back together soon. Hopefully the hard part is over... Which was taking them apart.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 6:58 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Man... I'm with Ezra on the. HOW THE HECK DO YOU ROTATE THE PLATE! There is nooo way. I'm having a heck of a time. Didn't have to sand/file down the big hole, they slipped right on... Although VERY tightly. If I were to force the plate to turn, it would tear these bushings apart and destroy them. I'm debating removing the large tubular dowels and filling them down as Ezra did.

*This is not an easy task. From disassembly to reassembly... Been very difficult every step of the way.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 8:03 pm    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

Ok, here is my work around. I believe these bushings were designed as to rotate during assembly. So... I used my Dremel and ground down the bushing allowing the plate to easily rotated in to place. Then simply spun the bushing where it needed to be. Pressed it together with a pair of vice grips and hammered the two dowel pins in place. As with Ezra's method, after screwing these into the door jam, they will be strongly in place. Not worried a bit that dremelling out a corner hinders the rigidity at all. Installed, adjusted... Done.

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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:29 am    Post subject: Re: 67-74 door striker Reply with quote

While I don't wish difficulty for anyone, I was starting to question my abilities with all these other people saying how easy it was! Laughing

Glad you figured it out, xzener! Were you not able to pop the large bushings out, or did you just not want to deal with grinding the metal down?

BTW, it looks like the "cups" on yours were as deep as on mine, while it appears that on other people's they're not so deep. I'm wondering if VW re-designed them either due to assembly issues or to make them serviceable. What was the part number on the rear of your striker? I'd bet it was the same part number I had.
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66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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