My 1973 Tin Top Camper Build and Travel Thread

[Seventy3Bus]

I've owned my bus for a few months and have started a couple topics, but I wanted to create a thread to officially introduce her and document the progress of the ongoing restoration. I will be getting re-assigned next summer and my goal is to have her road trip ready by then so I can drive her to wherever I get stationed next.

Here is the link to my previous posts to get everyone up to speed:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_id=usertopics&user=437292

So far I have completed a full tune-up using Bentley and Muir's book, changed all fluids, rebuilt the carburetors, replaced fuel lines, replaced vacuum lines, gotten most of the lights working and... gotten the bus running well enough to drive it a few miles to my local air cooled mechanic's shop! He is going to do a full inspection and give me a list of everything else he thinks needs to be done. Thanks for all the help so far, I'll continue to post updates as I make progress.

[Tcash]

Welcome to TheSamba, Bay Window Bus Forum!

73-79 NEWBIE

[Seventy3Bus]

I got my bus back from my local air cooled shop about a week ago.

Leak down test results:

Cylinder 1 - 40%
Cylinder 2 - 10%
Cylinder 3 - 48%
Cylinder 4 - 27%

The compression test I did when I first got it showed:

Cylinder 1 - 86 PSI
Cylinder 2 - 123 PSI
Cylinder 3 - 100 PSI
Cylinder 4 - 115 PSI

The oil pressure was 50 PSI cold and 18 PSI warm. So it seems like the bottom end is in pretty good shape at least. The mechanic suggested that I put a couple hundred miles on it and then take it in for another leak down test. It had been sitting for for a long time before I bought it, so the thought is that the valves aren't seated and might wear in. We'll see how it goes, but an overhall might be in the future.

I am running dual Weber 34-ICTs and a 009 distributor. We re-jetted the carbs from the stock jet sizes to 150 main jets and .060 idle jets. It is running really well, but I'm concerned it might be a little rich with the 150 main jet. I have put about 80 city and highway miles on it and averaged close to 19 mpg.

Next on my list is new rubber brake lines and heater cables, service the drum brakes, and new tires. I plan to post pictures of the heater cable replacement and anything else that is interesting.

Finally, the ground wire for the horn at the base of the steering column is disconnected. The tab is still there. I've spent about an hour trying to re-connect it from under the car, but just can't get it. I tried to remove the cover plate to get at it from the top, but the plastic clamping ring kept the plate in place. Is there an easy way to remove the plate without taking apart the entire steering column?

[Spike0180]

bummer. Hopefully it will only be a top end rebuild. Make sure to keep an eye on your oil temps so you don't cook the bottom end.

As far as that tab, I used two needle nose pliers to get mine attached. It isn't easy and I feel like I might have been lucky. As far as the column, the metal cover plate is held in by two screws, that plastic washer/spacer on the column is just what it looks like (mine is super hard and I thought for sure I was going to break mine, but it didn't. They are available aftermarket though.), you might need to disconnect the column from the steering wheel in order to move it around enough to get at it well. I'm not 100% sure. But someone who has dealt with this I'm sure will let you know of a way to remove the column completely.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[Wildthings]

Dump a quart of upper cylinder wall lube (MMO, 2 cycle oil, synthetic motor oil) into a full tank of gas and see what that will do for your compression over a couple of hundred miles. 19mpg is pretty normal these days with the crappy gas they are selling. You want an AFR of 13:1 or lower when you have the pedal floored at high speed.

[Seventy3Bus]

Thanks for the advice on connecting the horn ground wire and bringing the compression up. I was able to confirm that the horn circuit and horn are working, but still haven't been able to get the wire connected and am putting that project on hold... I will likely end up pulling the steering column and will post pics when I do.

The rainy season is here. I haven't done much driving. Thoughts on squirting some MMO into the top of each cylinder while it sits for the next couple weeks?

I've gotten a lot done since my last post, here's an update.

I reupholstered my front seats. I had the frames sandblasted and powder coated and got the tweed covers from TMI. The part you sit on is pretty straight forward, the seat backs are are a little harder. I found using a trash bag to compress the padding made it easier to slide the seat backs on. If I were to do it again I wouldn't go with TMI for quality reasons. Overall I am pretty happy, but there are some bare edges that are beginning to fray that they could have easily sewn during production.

I picked up the majority of a 78/79 Westy interior. Everything is in pretty good shape. Just missing the closet, headbanger cabinet, table, ice chest, and stove/sink. Should work for camping for now though.

The tires were pretty old and not the correct rating, so I ordered new Hankook Vantra RA18 185R14s and had the rims sandblasted and powder coated. They look sharp.

I replaced the heater control cables. My levers just pulled right off - no plastic pins. Not sure if this is original, but might be useful for someone else. Here is a pic of the assembly at the back end of the cable.

I saw a couple threads where people were discussing what was the correct order. The cables on mine were old enough to be original, and the assembly seems correct, but I'm not certain. The levers now actuate the valves, but I'm still not getting much flow. I need to spend some time checking for leaks and inspecting the valve that diverts air between the cab and passenger compartment. Anyone seen replacement cables for that part of the system?

I've spent the last few days going through the brake system. Ratwell's guide is really useful:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BrakeJob.html

I've replaced all four rubber brake hoses, and the front right hose to caliper brake line because I completely stripped one of the connectors. I recommend hitting the connectors with some penetrating oil before taking a wrench to them. The front brake pads and rotors look pretty good. The driver's side rotor is getting there though, so I may have it turned or replace it. The passenger side drum brake has a leaky piston. One of the adjusting stars on the driver's side drum brake is seized and preventing me from removing the drum. I sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil on it, but might be asking for advice if that doesn't work. I will be replacing the shoes on both sides.

I spent some time cleaning the front axle while I had the tires off. All of the ball joint boots are torn and will need to be replaced. I also found that the lower ball joint on the passenger side didn't have a lubrication port? Seemed weird to me.

Once brakes are done I will do a full front/rear lube and start on some of the body work.

[Wildthings]

[Seventy3Bus]

Thanks for the advice Wildthings. I picked up some of the cylinders you recommended.

I noticed that the connecting link for the left and right rear drum brakes are different.

The one on the right is from the left side and the other is from the right. The one on the left looks closer to what is in Bentley and fits the shoe and parking brake lever better. Any idea if either is right?

While I am asking does anything else look wrong here?

I noticed I am missing the clip that holds the top spring to the connecting link and none of the bolts had washers. Does that stuff matter?

[secretsubmariner]

Good work! Looks fun, keep it goin!
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI

[CessnaJon]

I love blue 73 tin tops. Here’s mine. Keep up the good work!
_________________
1973 Westy (shared birthday)
1990 Westy Multivan
2015 Passat TDI 6sp
2015 Sportwagon TDI 6sp
LR-JET, Gulfstream 159

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Seventy3Bus]

Thanks for the support guys! Great looking bus CessnaJon! Thanks for sharing the pic - gives me something to shoot for! It has been a little while since I posted an update - progress has slowed a bit due to the holidays.

I sourced a non "hokey ass farm fix" parking brake spreader bar. It should arrive this week then I should be able to wrap up the brake job.

I was able to get a pretty nice '73 nose (a little damage on the upper driver's side) clip from the guys at Global Foreign Car in Roseburg, OR. They've got a cool shop and you should check it out if you are in the area.

I removed the patch panel to see what it looked like underneath:

I also popped out the broken windshield to see what the metal looked like under the rubber - very solid:

Since everything from the fresh air box up seems pretty solid I am thinking that I will replace everything from there down to avoid having to drill out all the spot welds around the fresh air box and risk messing up the alignment on the front window.

The down side to this plan is that the half inch of metal at the base of the fresh air box isn't very straight, and it may be challenging to get the alignment right. Also, I haven't figured out how I am going to weld the bottom of the patch panel in. The PO cut the whole flat piece off the bottom and it seems like the easiest way to attach the base of the repair panel would be to plug weld it to the flat piece that the nose clip was originally pot welded to.

What do you guys think? I've read a few posts about replacing front nose clips and haven't seen anyone do one like this.

[Seventy3Bus]

Been a while since I've posted an update, but lot's of progress. I've been working with an old timer to finish some of the body work and prep the bus for paint.

I picked up a "new" nose clip and got it fitted.

I'm hoping to get it welded on this week. The nose is the biggest job, but I also have a flat spot on the right rear side that we are straightening out.

Also, lots and lots of sanding.

The paint doesn't look too bad in the top picture, but it was incredibly hard and was failing all over. I've got it sanded down to the original pastel white. I plan to do all the prep work and have the paint shop do the final sanding and paint. I plan to bring it back to the original color.

Over the last long weekend I took a road trip up to Canada to pick up a 1973 westfalia. It is bone stock original with all the camper components, but there is pretty much no metal left from the wheel wells down. I wish I could save it, but it is too far gone. I'll take some solace in knowing that interior will live on in my new tin top.

My goal is to have it painted by the end of April. Then if all goes to plan it will be ready for camping trips when the rain gets turned off in May and June!

[Seventy3Bus]

Also the brakes worked when I drove it over to the body shop (without any doors or windows!), which was a relief after the brake overhaul! I found taking the windshield out and driving 40 mph is a good alternative to factory AC. Definitely an interesting ride haha.

[Seventy3Bus]

Well the new nose is on. I think it turned out pretty well considering I only took my first welding lesson a couple months ago. It feels good to make some progress and check one of the big projects off the list. All that is left on the nose is a bit more sanding, a thin coat of mud in the areas with small imperfections, and then primer... and then more sanding.

I also got the holes for the AC outlet, the antennae, and the sink drain cut. Having a westy parts bus to make cardboard templates from took a lot of guess work out of making sure all the holes are in the right place.

Next up is the hole in the roof for the sink vent, stripping the roof and doors, and some minor body work before primer and block sanding.

[KentABQ]

[Seventy3Bus]

Dang! Kent I didn't see your reply until maybe an hour or two after I drilled out the hole. I figured the vent played a more important role since the germans were fairly utilitarian... had I seen your post sooner I probably would have forgone the vent, but now that there is a hole I will probably roll with it. Thanks for your advice.

[Seventy3Bus]

Been a while since I posted an update, a lot has happened in three months!

Finished all of the body work, priming, and block sanding... don't want to do that again... and had the bus sprayed in the original L90D pastel white color.

Had a nice visit with Colin (Amskeptic), rebuilt the CVs, replaced some window seals, and went for a drive with no doors and windows.

I'm really happy with how it turned out. I have a few small projects left, and a few things to put back on, but I should be ready for the 2018 Treffen in a week!

[Tcash]

Looks great! Have a good time on the Treffen.
Tcash

[TomWesty]

When I first got my bus I didn’t like the L90D. Now I wouldn’t have anything else.
_________________
If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music!