Bringing back to life my1960 swr kombi

[73sparks]

Bump out, I had a nice tight gap when I started welding it ook 2 days
of tacking and retacking the welds to get panel on .
It seems like in some areas of the repair the new panel moved over the old causing a bump.
looking back I could of had more space between panels to prevent that from happening.and there was some small warping even with tacking and cooling method.
I will be working on it some more today to level it before before prepping area.

[73sparks]

I was so unhappy with the seam weld on the long wall, do to a nasty
bump forming that I cut it out and I am going to retry it!
I am not a pro welder but I do want good results for this bus.
Looks like I butt welded the seam to tight and it mis shaped to all hell.
I will allow more gap and weld from inside the bus to keep less build up
on the seam . I think this should give better results, important this part of repair is done well .. for my own sanity .....
we will see.✌

[ryans65]

WOW!

I like your dedication to a nice weld. I've learned there is a fine line between too much gap and not enough. I am still learning what that gap is. Were you quenching every tack with air on the previous attempt? Like cooling them down until you can hold your finger on them? I'm experimenting with my technique now. Good luck I'll be watching!

[73sparks]

Yep.. air hose was right with me when welding.I am thinking of a sponge this time ,looked on welding sites and they use it to shrink metal. will test it first.
welds where good ,I think I just got to fixed on the gap being really tight and had no room for metal to move.
If that even makes sense ?
after cutting weld and resetting with clamps I feel alot better about re welding panel.
I hate having to redue stuff but the quality was not there.

[ryans65]

Probably too tight of a gap then. Perhaps the weld heat tried to spread the panels apart. I've seen guys clamp the lower part of the panel to the inner rocker instead of welding it then doing the butt weld.... maybe the clamps allow the panel to move downwards just a little as the weld expands.

[ryans65]

how far apart did you space your first pass?

[Burlyhammer]

[73sparks]

I clamped my lower panel to rocker and welded seam , I should have tacked rocker first preventing panel from moving up.

my first try at the seam I had very minimal space between panels.
To tight for sure.
now that lower panel is welded and I have a better gap in the seam
I will have better finished weld.
I am tacking my welds starting at one end and jumping in front of heat and tacking another and cooling the welds withh air.
I might try a sponge instead to cool welds,any thoughts on that technique?
Thanks

[type241]

Check this thread out. You might have to register to view site but well worth the read. I have been trying to perfect this method of welding panels.



http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6292

[ryans65]

I am learning too so I don't have enough passes on a very long panel yet.

What size wire are you using?

[73sparks]

I will check website thanks.
wire size .25

[73sparks]

rewelded long panel, better results this try.
will need some skimming and working ,should be fine.
cargo floors going in and prepping floors for paint.
alot of work and frustation but should be good results
when done.

[braddick]

Nice job on the long side
Enjoying the build

[motofly196]

Looks better! You can also try an .023 wire, that's pretty standard with auto body. I like ESAB's .023 EZ grind wire. I'm sure it's just an ER60S wire...but it grinds nice and fast on non-structural panels. For structural panels, stick with an ER70S wire.
Unless you plan on doing a bunch of shrinking/ stretching when you are finished welding...stay away from cooling with wet rags and towels. Planishing each tack weld helps open the gap back up to where you put it in the beginning...and it "sets" the weld nugget.
I can stitch 20 gauge at about 1 inch at a time...but you are REALLY risking warping if you don't know what you're doing. I've even played around with 20 gauge and stitching about 4 inches with wire speed and voltage set where it starts to sound like popcorn...not the ultimate settings, but sometime voltage needs to be lower to get the desired results.
Play around with settings and different thicknesses and wire to get really good results.

[73sparks]

Good info Motofly..
The cooling method with water did work better than air but I do have a few spots to shrink.
This size of panel and the length of weld might have been my match
alot of time and not done yet.
I want it to be a good job , a big section of bus metal 👍

[DubStyle]

Nice work! The cutting, welding and straightening part is what I like most about owning VWs. After that I get bored!!!
_________________
Anthony

SBS #1
SBS #1 on FB

"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club"

[motofly196]

If you have a helper, try planishing each weld nugget. Just have them stay inside the bus. When you place a tack, set the gun down, grab an auto body hammer, have them hold up a flat faced dolly to the new tack and you give the weld a firm tap. That will open the weld gap back up. It also helps resist warpage on a panel that long.
If you just weld along a panel like that, you are putting heat and expanding the joint...then as it cools, it contracts. Do that enough times and you end up with a very wavy panel.

[73sparks]

Been working on long panel and rear corners to get them ready for blending.Very happy with the progress I have made.
cargo door bottom repairs next, then weld doglegs in to place.

[motofly196]

Better feather out that hard line, or it's going to show REAL bad....

[73sparks]

you talking about long wall?
my buddy put straight paint line ,filler is feathered at edges below paint line.
passenger side rear wheel area needs a little more sanding.