Clutch cable, pedal cluster removal, gear stick adj, mods, tips.

[Bluggy]

Hi Guys,

Did not want to start another thread but had to and will compile everything regarding the title into one thread. I have found good info, but its all over the place. I am hoping that a mod can give me access to edit this first post so I can add info as needs be. I wished that we could have posted pics side by side but it does not allow you to.

Please feel free to advise or give any input regarding my issues noted below, much appreciated.

After purchasing my Buggy (Right Hand Drive) 2 months ago, I had to trailer it home and started to look at the issues and needs, I realized that I have to strip it down to bring it to my level of needs and expectations.

One of the first issues I found while trying to move it to the trailer, is that I had to depress the gear stick to get it into 1st gear, the same as you would for reverse.

I pulled out the shifter stop plate which was badly worn and replaced it with another. There seem to be an older type and the new type which has two tabs and rounded mounting ears as shown below.

After replacing the shifter stop plate, I still had the same issue and realize that the shift rod cup was not centered, not allowing equal movement from center to left and right. When I moved it fully to to the left, it was dead center.
This is supposed to be where the neutral position is, but now its the 3rd and 4th position. I cant see the shift rod being twisted and there is no play in the coupler, so I have to figure this out.

Here is where 1st and 2nd is

When I took off the cover from above the coupler, I saw that the coupler grub bolt is offset where the neutral should be with reference to the gear stick position. I am now trying to figure why this is so.

While moving the Buggy, the clutch cable let go, so now onto another issue. After looking at how it comes apart logically, I started to unbolt and remove attachments, it wont come out. Upon further inspection, some #@&*%#@ idiot welded a bolt mounting tab to the floor pan.

It took all my fire power to get it out

1) The easy way I found to get the pedal cluster out is to undo the throttle and clutch cables from the engine and transaxle respectively.

2) Use circlip pliers (and dental picks for the accelerator circlip) to remove the circlips. Mine is missing the accelerator cable protection cover.

3) Unhook brake pedal return spring.

4) Undo 4 bolts on both the pedal cluster side and the accelerator sides of the tunnel and a 5th #10 bolt and nut holding down a tab. From the accelerator side, undo the clutch clevis then rotate the clutch pedal to get the clutch pedal hook to pass through the tunnel and out.

5) To change the clutch cable, I would attach a strong wire, like solid mig welding steel wire to the transaxle side and pull the cable out from the pedal hook side in the tunnel. Have someone help to feed the mig wire or stretch it out straight so when you pull the clutch cable it will follow through.

6) Look at your Bowden tube to see if it needs replacing

7) Remove the MIG wire from the old cable and securely attach the MIG wire onto the transaxle end of the new clutch cable and carefully pull the new clutch cable through....here I would definitely get help to feed the new clutch cable into the tunnel and out at the back.

Dental picks I used to get out the tiny circlip holding the accelerator shaft in place.

I see people mentioning some drift pin on the clutch side, I found nothing like that on my cluster and it all came apart easily. I have a right hand drive and not sure what year the pan is, the PO says its a 68 but I am not sure nor is he.

Here is my pedal cluster

Before pulling apart the pedal cluster I checked it for play, it was surprisingly nice and snug eyt rotating smoothly and freely. When i pulled it apart, I found that the main shaft had some pitting but was well greased with no rust. I would prefer to replace it all though its Ok, will decide later since its a PITA to get stuff shipped here and the huge local duty and taxes added.
The close up looks bad but its smooth to the touch.
I will polish it on my lathe to see how it comes up.

Looks like my Bowden clutch cable tube is taking a bow

[Bluggy]

Tips from Youtube and other sites.

How to Replace a Shift Rod, bushing etc. Long but great info.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=410XrXNrPQ0

Shift rod bushing replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Re-JiUdwYMI

and in text from Glenn whom I think is a member here
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/bushing_replace.htm

Shift lever and shift rod – removal and installation
http://chircoestore.com/tech_articles/?p=302

Gear stick adjustment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVcDysBVwq0

Gear positions from the transaxle side
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwrOThNFSRg

Shifter Stop Plate Adjustment
http://www.vw-resource.com/plateadj.html

and another
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=934089

My idea replacing the clutch pedal dreaded broken hook
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=688727

Bowden clutch cable tube adjustment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NeXfqQzmQM

Replacing clutch cable and Bowden tube with pics
http://noslocars.blogspot.com/2013/12/replacing-vw-bugs-clutch-cable-and.html

Transaxle, gear ratios, MPH calculations and other good related info
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Transaxle.html#components

[clonebug]

Do yourself a favor and install an adjustable end on the shift rod and then buy an Empi Hurst style shifter or other one if you prefer.
It allows you to adjust the length and side to side for perfect shifts every time.

If needed I can post pics tonight of mine and more detail but mine shifts like butter even though the shifter is the dreaded Empi.
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[Bluggy]

[Bluggy]

I will be taking apart my Buggy soon. I am awaiting the fiberglass guy to go over my tub mods and repairs before taking off the roll cage and the tub.

I will take the shift rod out, replace the guide bushing etc. I will also do the other mods to the clutch pedal, replace the accelerator and clutch cables at the same time.

All of the info here will be used as I go along and I will post updated pics as progress is made.

Cheers.

[BL3Manx]

This is what an early(round coupler) adjuster looks like. The threaded female part welds into the end of the shift rod and the weld is dressed down smooth so it will slide through the nylon shift rod support bearing.

It enables precise fore and aft and side to side shift lever adjustment by loosening the lock nut and turning the threaded male section

This is what a later(square coupling) adjuster looks like installed

Your Bowden tube should have a minimum of 1" pre-load bow/deflection from straight. Yours looks about right. If you get drive train shudder when the clutch is released, try increasing the bow with a washer or two

[Bluggy]

Thanks for the reply BL3manx. I have seen these before and was pondering over the Uthere one, the square type my Buggy uses. I am assuming that the horizontal bolt sits in a slotted/elongated hole which allows adjustment on the square one. I could have easily machined the older style one.

My issue originates from the transaxle side of the linkage. If you look at the pic you sent and mine, you will see that my grub bolt is offset by about 15 degrees.

This causes the shift rod and cup to go further right, putting 1st, 2nd past the shift stop position to where reverse is. Its for this very reason, I have to press the gear stick down to get 1st and 2nd as well.

Surely an adjustable coupler will resolve this but I would like to find out why the selector input shaft to the transaxle is not alingned 90 degrees vertical when in neutral..where it should be to begin with.

I am not sure if someone worked on the the transaxle drive and did not align something in there center.

Cheers.

[mr_bill]

solid billet coupler.....nothing to wear out.....positive shifting
_________________
see ya' on the trail........

"Mr Bill"
Dos Perros Motorsports
Orange, CA
1972 Class 11x/Stock Bug
'60's era "vintage" Tunnell-Buggy

"...no one here....get's out ALIVE...."

Motor = electric
Engine = internal combustion

www.facebook.com/groups/DosPerrosMotorsports
www.alrchapter132.org
www.DAV.org

[Bluggy]

Mr. Bill I love that CNC coupler, I would have loved to get that but I need adjustment as you can see in the pic in my previous post. Your pic reinforces the fact that the grub bolt and shaft on the transaxle side should be dead vertical in neutral.

I would have been happy having the right alignment from the transaxle side and go with what you have.

The other couplers have rubber or utherne to absorb some transaxle vibration to the shift rod, but I do prefer crisp shifts from using a billet coupler like yours.

Where did you source that? Just realized its from a sponsor here on SF...nice work. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1252462

Cheers and Thanks.

[Bluggy]

Looking more in depth at some cut away diagrams, I will have to take the shift rod out, get the early round coupler or machine one, weld it to the shift rod and decide on a coupler, original, utherene or CNC Billet.

There is no easy solution to get the selector input shaft aligned from the transaxle side so all the adjustments must be done from the shift rod end and shift stop plate.

Thanks guys for all your help and advice, please fell free to still advise, post info and pics on the thread.

Cheers.

[clonebug]

Here is a really good coupler for less than 15 bucks.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6110.htm

Adjustable shift rod end.....

Needs a little modification to fit the bigger bolt on the coupler.

Somewhere I saw a shift rod end that was already drilled for the bigger bolt but at the time I didn't know of them and used this one and just pressed the cap onto it for more meat.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6330.htm

I took a hydraulic cap and slightly drilled the threads to make it a press fit onto the end of the adjuster. Once pressed on I drilled a 5/16ths inch hole through the cap and shaft for a nice snug fit.

This is the original coupler I used which while it worked...I had to spend time shimming it to tighten it up.
The Rhino coupler is much snugger and makes the shifts very crisp.

It makes it really easy to adjust the shifter by loosening the adjust jam nut and sticking the shifter and transmission into reverse. Hold the shift lever snugly down and left and tighten the jam nut.
The shifter should be adjusted perfectly.....at least mine is when I do it that way. Make sure you adjust the forward and back to center the puck in the shifter.
It's actually easier to do than explain.

It's worked great for 13 yrs. and somewhere around 60,000 miles.

At the bottom of my page below you can see the shifter in action. I can bang through the gears without missing a shift.....

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=677508&start=20
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[BL3Manx]

[Bluggy]

Thanks so much for the links Clonebug, both the coupler and shift rod adjuster look very strong.

I dont like the red utherene coupler with the screw, nor the adjusters which has very little metal on the male end. I was running the idea of making the adjuster but will get both components from the links you sent.

Thanks for your input and time to reply, very much appreciated.

[Bluggy]

BL3Manx the hockey stick was not re drilled, I am thinking that it is more than likely damaged as but it will take a lot of abuse to do that.

Yes the grub screw should face upwards as I did side by comparison with pics. Though I am new to this engine/transaxle, I realized this from looking at what the shifting issues are and by looking at pics of other hockey sticks and coupler grub screw positions.

Because of the hockey stick being off centered, my 3rd and 4th gear is where neutral should be.

I will get a new shift rod and will weld an adjuster from the link CloneBug sent, will buy the coupler at the same time from them too.

Thanks for your help and advice, you guys are awesome.

[Bluggy]

Wow CloneBug, just realized that you are boosted, wow 23psi thats sweet. I see you are using MegaSquirt, I have not worked on one in a while.

The last one we built and installed was for a NA BMW e30 street race car 5 years or so ago. I am impressed with your buggy hauling a camping trailer along the way, you guys have got it down to a science.

The coupler and adjuster looks like its holding up fine, with that amount of power you must have built the transaxle to handle that, maybe with a posi kit too...huge WOW factor.

I would have loved to built a FI motor, but where I am now it will cost a fortune to get parts in, should have gotten into this while I was back home in Canada LOL. I had a Euro turbo/performance shop there until 3 years ago..we mostly worked on BMWs.

Looking at your buggy gives me adrenaline rush now
I was just a few moments ago looking at building an 1800 motor, the buggy has a 1600 SP now and I have most of a 1600 DP on the floor.

Thanks again for your replies and assistance.

[clonebug]

Thanks!!!
It is a handful....
I am using a 1967 swingaxle trans with welded 3rd and 4th hubs but otherwise it's stock.
No burnouts or dumping the clutch though.

The engine is pretty well all stock too except 88 P/C's and a W-100 cam.

I love my MS EFI....
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[Dale M.]

I will jump in here and recommend the adjustable end for shift rod as others mention... A little note for your ease of adjusting is have the wrench flats on insert (female section) in vertical position when welding so at later date when you want to put wrench on it it is in easily accessed position...

I also cut a couple of small vee notches in shift tube to give better access to insert when welding (actually braze) and not have to totally depend on ground down butt weld to keep adjuster attached to tube...

I personally like the round donut coupler over the box coupler (adjustable shift rod ends are different ) but that is just me, others do not seem to have a lot of problems with box coupler...

Measure exact distance from grub screw divot in hockey stick to exact center of opening for shifter in tunnel..... Make modified shift rod that same length>>> From grub screw (transmissions side) in coupler to exact center cup in shift rod.... Instructions that come adjuster aren't really to good... Just be sure you have some threads showing on coupler end of adjuster so you have adjustment either way when doing mock up and before weld...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[BL3Manx]

[Bluggy]

HI Dale,

I will do all the measurements and mock up before cutting, welding etc. I know the shift rod is thin, I was thinking of mig welding it which will require careful attention since the adjuster is so much thicker than the shift rod.

Brazing will be better because the heat can be concentrated more accurately and filling easier, so I will braze it as you suggested.

Yes it makes sense to cut some V's into the shift rod for more contact area welding. I just spoke with my fiber glass guy, he has to come over to do some work on the tub, I need the roll cage on for some measurements. Once thats done I will take the roll cage and tub off to do all of this including more work on the pan, brakes, steering and suspension.

It will be easier to work on the shift rod mod, clutch cable, pedals etc., with all of this off.

Will follow your guidelines, thanks again for your advice.

Cheers.

[Bluggy]