81 1.6 diesel pickup stalling after timing belt change

[t3rrybmx]

I just replaced the crankshaft seal on my pickup. Good news is I think it fixed the oil leak I had. Bad news is the truck wont stay running. It will fire and if I give it throttle it'll run. As soon as I left off the throttle it stalls. My question is, could this be from the injection pump timing being to retarded? I did not use a dial indicator when doing the timing belt. It ran fine before the crankshaft seal issue. Would advancing the pump stop the stalling? I tried adjusting the throttle cable to no avail. Should I try messing with the fuel screw on the pump (more fuel)? If so how do you do that. Its getting fuel I have a clear tube from the filter to the pump and can see flow. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[t3rrybmx]

Anyone? Little help here. If no one answers I'm going to advance the injection pump. Go ahead and try and stop me!

[TDCTDI]

If it ran before you Effed with the timing belt, why would you want to Eff with the fueling? Go back & correct mechanical & pump timing.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


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Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

Are you saying I didn't time it correctly? It wouldn't run if it wasn't timed correctly, correct?

[TDCTDI]

Wen you installed the belt, how did you ensure that the timing was correct? Did you set the crank at TDC & use a cam lock & lock pin for the pump?
If not its possible that the timing moved & even more likely if you didn't make sure there wasn't any slack on the pump side of the belt, when you adjust the tensioner, it will retard the pump & cam.

You can be roughly 2 teeth off, retarded or advanced before the valves kiss the pistons & it will run, just not correctly. But if it was running correctly BEFORE you removed the timing belt, then logically, you should see what was wrong there before you start messing with other adjustments to compensate for incorrect timing.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

I set the cam at top dead center (First two valves pointed up) and put the locking plate in. Also had the crank at the 0 mark on the transmission. also had the pin in the pump. As far as what you are talking about with the slack on the pump side can you please explain more. I made sure the top of the belt was tight around the cam and to the pump. No idea where the slack was at. your saying it should be after the pump on the way down to the crank correct?

[TDCTDI]

The space between the cam pulley & the crank pulley has the tensioner side and the non-tensioner side (the injection pump is on this side). When you install the timing belt, it is imperative that there is NO slack in the belt on the non-tension side (no slack between the crank pulley & the injection pump pulley & no slack from the injection pump pulley & the cam pulley. Any slack on this side will translate into retarding the cam timing and possibly the pump timing as you adjust the tensioner to take up the slack.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[TDCTDI]

Did you break the cam gear loose from the cam?

If the pump & the cam are locked & there is slack on the non-tensioner side then it will rotate the crankshaft as you tension the belt, a tooth of rotation on the crankshaft = two teeth of rotation on the cam & pump.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

That makes sense. Thanks. I did not ever break the cam gear loose. I will try and redo the belt this weekend following those directions and send my results. I also read in the manual there is a timing mark on the injection pump gear. I never saw that I just stuck the pin in whenever it was lined up. Should i be looking for a mark on the injection pump gear. I Dont see where that would even make sense.

[t3rrybmx]

Hey, also while we are at it...My belt has always ridden about a 1/16'' off the side of the injection pump pulley. Can I shim the pulley out to fix this? It has never caused a problem but it's just one of those things that is in the back of your mind the whole time. Also can you tell me anything about looking for a mark on the injection pump pulley that should line up with the marks on the injection pump. The book talked a little about this. Thanks for your help

[t3rrybmx]

I found this from another site...

Between the Alternator and the injection pump, there should be an L shaped bracket that secures the outer end of the pump bracket. Looking straight down behind the alternator, should be a 6mm allen bolt. Loosen that and loosen the pump bolt on the back under the fuel lines. Now with a large pry bar, pry the pump back towards the head and secure. That should help assuming the belt is walking off the pump sprocket. Other things to check would be the tensioner and tensioner stud as well as checking for slop in the intermediate shaft pulley. This might make more sense once you look at what I describe. But yes, the pump bracket could be bent as well.

[TDCTDI]

Check for that bracket & there should also be another bolt holding the back of the IP to a bracket under/behind the IP.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

alright so i fired the truck backup today by spraying starting fluid in the air intake. It ran for about 3 minutes then stalled out. Sounded great though while it was running. After it died I looked around and I noticed what seems to be a leak at injectors 2, 3 and 4. It seems bad theres fuel everywhere. Dont know where it was leaking from. So now im thinking I did do the timing belt correctly, and I have injector problems. So my question is how do you tighten these and do you think the seals are bad. I read there are seals at the base of the injectors, is this also what they refer to as a heat shield? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks Also holy shit new injectors are pricey, any place to get them cheap? Thanks

[TDCTDI]

NEVER use ether to start a diesel. You will destroy the rings and/or pistons.

If there's fuel everywhere, how are the cloth covered return hoses going from injector to injector? If someone replaced them with regular rubber hose, the diesel fuel will dissolve the hoses or the cloth bound hoses might be dry rotted.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

The injector hoses are rubber but seem to be fine. Im thinking its not running from leaking injectors. Seems to be leaking at the very base where they meet the head, which I believe there is a seal there. Last time I had it running I cracked all the injectors loose to see if I saw fuel flow and I did on everyone except injector 4. Im think from doing this then it unseated the seal and it went bad after a yea of not running. Does this seem like a decent theory? Maybe I should just get those seals and try before I replace all the injectors.

[TDCTDI]

Those heat shields/gaskets are not a sealing fuel, they seal the injector to the cylinder head mating surfaces & only seal combusted gasses. You probably didn't get the pipe to injector unions sealed/seated correctly.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

Ok Ill check it out. Im taking all the injectors out, replacing glow plugs and cleaning everything. I already ordered new heat shields and I got one new injector. Figured I'd throw the new injector in number 4. then rebuild the rest buying the replacement nozzles since that isn't as expensive. I think having everything really clean is going to help a ton. Also I bought one of those rubber valve cover seals last winter. That thing was leaking all over the place when it ran that one time for 3 minutes. That rubber seal is coming back off I ordered the regular valve cover seal the cork one or whatever, thats what it always ran before. Also ordered what they call a oil baffle which goes on top of the cam shaft. Like I said before having everything clean is going to be a help.

[TDCTDI]

To use the rubber gasket, you have to replace the valve cover studs. The ones used with the cork gasket have a stepped collar meant to align the gasket & to avoid over-tightening, the metal reinforcement in the rubber gasket sits on these & the gasket won't seal.

There again, if it ran well before changing the belt, and it didn't run correctly after changing the belt, throwing injectors at it & changing pump settings isn't going to fix it.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[t3rrybmx]

I hear you on that. Im going to put this one one injector in, tighten up where the lines meet the injector, put this cork seal in ( good information by the way thank you) Clean the shit out of everything and go from there. If that doesn't work I will re time everything. Any other spots on the injector that would need to be tightened?

[TDCTDI]

The only places that the injector can leak from is the return hoses, the unions from the injector lines, & then the two halves of the injector body. If someone wasn't careful tightening the unions, the wrench could have perforated the return hoses.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.