ToughBug Update: Rock bottom and now things go back together

[ToughBug]

My 1973 SB is now a 73/74 hybrid. Completely apart and ready to start going back together. After two summers of work here's what we're up to:

New CV joints / stub axels. Rear bearings in progress. Backing plates refurbished except for few stubborn star adjusters that won't budge. All new brakes ready for installation. Never could get one ball joint off or spindles off of old struts - enlisted help from a machine shop, we'll see. New tie rods, etc ready. Adjustable struts ready for install. Master cylinder new and ready for install but PO crushed the hat metal by not using spacers so fixing that, and adding thin brace plate and longer bolts. New pedal cluster goig in too. That will complete chassis. Most of car primed. But doors are a hassle. Not enjoying those. We are carriage painting in a few weeks - using the master series primer then coats of slightly thinned AG 111 red - yep, that's farm all tractor paint. I don't ever want to see rust on the car again. Ever! All seats redone over the winter. Challenges: stripping doors, stuck star adjusters, learning read bearing install procedures, and painting sunroof. Goal: body on chassis, rolling, by end of summer. Then figure out what to do about the engine. It ran before I started all of this but I haven't done much but remove it since.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

I just installed new rear bearings and seals!!!!! First time for that. Feeling the progress. Now on to the master cylinder and brake lines.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Some evidence of progress. Thanks to the team.

Last photos are of how I got the stubborn star adjusters out. (Lot's of rust and unbelievable tough to separate, even with a 5 foot cheaters bar.....but this worked nicely - just screwed in a large eye bolt until it popped out. There was actually water down inside behind the adjusters!

Some I can save, others I need to replace.

_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Taking over the garage entirely.

_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

All the seats are done. They look like this....

The draw string at bottom will be tightened later.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Local machine shop separated the spindles / struts / last ball joint / control arm. Even blasted them. For $61. Best $ spent on car. Now entirely front suspension can go back together.

Just hoping I didn't get those bad "too tight" ball joints that are out there on the market. Don't wanna do this twice.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Today: put body she'll back on ground and have easier access to the chassis. Finished installing the master cylinder and running brake line rearward. Set pedal cluster in place. Prepped front suspension components. Holy cow, pressing out the old rubber inserts from the control arms was ridiculous. Even after they were out there was super tough rubber caked inside. What IS that stuff?

QUESTION: should I apply some lubricant on the front suspension bolts to help preserve them? Or would that be a bad idea?

Also: cleaned tail light fixtures and made the "newer" less foggy lens fit.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

This is the master series AG111 paint that is going on my bug his month.

_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Today the front suspension went on! It's only finger tight because I want to check my work and get the torque right later. I didn't put the steering damper on because I don't have a bolt for that. I'll clean it up and make it look prettier tomorrow. For now I need to double check my work...because I'm new to this and don't want to die.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[Mikedrevguy]

Nice progress, project, and process. Enjoy.
Rev.
_________________
74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

Illigitimi non-Carborundum!!

[Gerrelt]

Nice work indeed. And smart trick with the brake's star adjuster!
_________________
homepage
_________________

[ToughBug]

Well, I wish I'd kept my posted all together in one thread....

For those you remember, my plan was to save funds for mechanical fixes by economizing on the paint job. I have kids starting college soon and just can't justify the expense of a professional paint job. Besides my priorities are: never seeing rust again and being able to enjoy the car without getting too upset if the boys nick the paint. Hence all the threads in 2015-2016 about "the plan", which was: MS silver primer and AG111 paint (red) thinned and applied via roller and brush. Apologies to professional paint types but there just was 't any way to cover the expenses otherwise. My rust bug was very far gone and I've spent something over $2k in repairs and supplies so far and I haven't even tougher the engine. So....here's my experience for those who are interested:

1. Por15 for the chassis. Had some left over so I applied to the package tray area and wheel wells.
2. Sold body #1. Replaced with slightly less rusty body #2.
3. Sanded off most paint and roughed up the rest.
4. Good cleaning
5. Master series silver on the whole thing (except where there was POR15).
6. Spend a year working on other parts of the car
7. Might sanding surface prep, wipe clean
8. Mix AG111 paint and hardener added thinner as needed
9. Paint.

Ok, there were a few other steps. But here's what I learned:

AG111 does not adhere to POR15. Fine for me. I didn't need it to.

In the few places where I had gotten some POR15 drip through a hole and onto an area I planned to paint red it took 3-4 coats of AG111 red to cover it.

Foam roller worked well. But get the chemical resistant type. And expect just a bit of fluff in the rolled pain at the start, maybe start in a non-critical area first.

It hardens as you work with it, sometimes requiring more thinner.

It covers well. More of a gel than paint almost.

There is really no way to get it smooth to approximate an automotive finish when applying this way. Maybe if you sprayed it. The MS silver is a bit thick s d creates a non-smooth surface. Sanding it much breaks the seal that prevents oxygen from getting in. Painting over it can cover some but not all of these ridges and bumps.

It's bright, shinny, and tough. I have a good feeling that it will keep rust away for a good while.

It took 2 quarts to cover every area in 2 coats. I will need to order o e more quart for the few areas I need to touch up and for a few areas where I want three coats. I did not paint the areas covered by the liner or door cards. Hey got Silver but not AG111. I had to get creative about the space inside the vent over the engine.

There's no way to save the brushes.

I did this in stages. But I we applied the AG111 in 4.5 hours on Friday and 4 hours today.

My wife - who helped with all of it - has mixed feelings about the final product. I think she was expected an auto finish even though I explained.

I love it. I love the color. I love the protection it offers. I love the the total cost was about $300 in supplies. And I like that the first time there is a ding I can fix it here. There is no more rust in the shop either. And I can get back to the brake system and then eventually the engine.

My advice for anyone considering this would be to go see a FarmAll tractor...it's the same paint.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[ToughBug]

Photos in the evening light....

_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[Bashr52]

Not bad for rollers and brushes! Can you wet sand/buff that paint to get any of the imperfections out and give it a smoother finish?

[ToughBug]

Thx! I did wet sand it a week ago and that helped a lot. Got it maybe half way from where it was to a real auto finish. I'm happy. Some of it needs another coat so I'm ordering more. Maybe a clear coat too.

Today did 3 of 4 brake jobs and got the adjustable brake line clamps on the adjustable struts. Starting to torque everything as per the specs. Not impressed with brake pads - rear units have misaligned holes for hand brake attachment and that required expanding that hole and filing some metal off the the hand brake lever.

Front bearings ready to reinstall.

Need to find a steering damper bolt - as it must have gone away with body #1.

Why don't "complete" brake line packages include the male to make junction for the rear? Hmmmmm.

Wheels on in a week, that's the plan.

Body on in August.
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[57BLITZ]

[ToughBug]

The junction is in the rear, passenger side, where short steel brake line meets flexible length. I think I have it right - diagrams and photos show this and there is an attachment point to bolt the connector in. I'll post a photo tomorrow. (I could be wrong...and that would be bad!).
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved

[57BLITZ]

Here's a handy drawing that shows the brake lines . . . and the "tee" I was telling ya about (#43) . . . http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/brakes/bug_brake/bug_brakes.cfm?type=1
_________________
Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!

[ToughBug]

Oh yeah. I have that T. But my 73 SB is a bit different in that it requires another connector on passenger side rear. I think this diagram might not be for my model year. I ordered be part and installed it today, and attached it to the post provided on the frame. I'll take some photos of everything soon - and probably ask folks what I might have done wrong. Thanks!
_________________
1973 chassis + 1974 body = super beetle saved