My Detroit sandrail/pleasure craft... or "Carmela's Concession"

[dennismcd707]

Two things I need to do, but don't know how to do yet. One is to insert my torsion bars back into their perspective homes, attach the spring plates, then the trans and axles and tubes and brake plates and emergency brakes and brake lines and on and on and on.

But it starts with putting my suspension back to where it belongs, and this has to do with possibly counting splines (for adj. purposes) or just throwing it together, ball park action? (that's what I mean by me not knowing what I'm doing).......yet

Secondly, I thought I'd tackle the master cylinder install. While taking out the old one, I decided to buy a new pedal assembly. Price is anywhere from 90 bucks to 200 plus. I'm fine with just a stock replacement type, but it doesn't seem like one is offered. Some have brake fluid reservoirs attached, some don't have an accelerator pedal. I don't know much about 'em, except I know I'd like to replace my old one with something new. The old one needs rebuilding, and I just figured I'd replace it for now. Can somebody suggest a decent pedal assembly?

I also need to order a new brake pedal master cylinder push rod. Then I'm okay with starting to install the metal brake lines to the rear..........but don't I have to install the spring plates and torsion bars first, then maybe the trans?

See?......I need direction over here.

I'd like to go in an organized and efficient order, so it doesn't make things harder down the road. Any help is appreciated. (WHAT WOULD YOU START ON NEXT, AND WHY?) If it's the torsion bars and spring plates, then I have to figure out the correct re-assembly process. I didn't make any marks when I took it apart .......... but I can eyeball it close thanks to some old orange paint markings.

If it's the brakes, I also need to address the pedal assembly and brake push rod. If somebody can explain to me how the aftermarket pedal assemblies work, that would be sweet. Why such a variety? And the mounting bracket?

Oh yea, and then I have to hook up a gear shifter, and install the wiring kit that I bought. Lots to do, don't know what direction is the smartest. Help.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

I also forgot about the skid plate. That's got to be installed. So what order should I go in? Rear suspension, install trans and axles, then the skid plate, and then the brakes? (Brakes last, or gear shifter last........or wiring?)

I'm not getting any advice here, and that's something I'm in dire need of right now. The engines can take a back seat for the moment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[heywebonya]

Dennis,

The practical order (based on my experiences) would be the following:

1. Install the torsion bars and rear arms

2. Install transaxle

3. Complete shift linkage

4. Brakes

5. Engine install

6. Fuel lines

7. Skid plate (optional)

8. Wiring is last, because you need to route around all the other stuff.

Print this out and hang it in your garage! Check them off as you go, do not get sidetracked. One sub-system at a time.

If you are ever in Kalamazoo, I can have you over to look at my buggy, very similar approach
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If I knew what I was doing; I wouldn't be building a buggy!

[dennismcd707]

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

Thanks Jeff......I'll hang the list in the garage. Only problem now is: lack of time. I've got some projects to finish up on the exterior of my garage, plus lots of yard work to do. And I'm not on that 4 days off per week work schedule anymore. I'll also take you up on that offer..... if I make my way over to the Kalamazoo area in the near future. Thanks

This project is gonna take longer than anticipated, but trudge on I must. I'm still havin' fun. (and I haven't even welded anything yet!)

Now I have to read up on how to assemble the torsion bars and spring plates. Is it as simple as putting the bar in, and then guessing the position of the spring plate? What was your experience with the installation.... or adjustments made afterwards of the spring plates? Any advice?
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[heywebonya]

I am no expert on torsion bars. Did you mark left and right when you took them out? I believe they have a memory issue.

Do you have seats?
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If I knew what I was doing; I wouldn't be building a buggy!

[Vanapplebomb]

Stock torsion bars are stamped “L” and “R” from the factory. Aftermarket bars are hit and miss. Most you have to mark yourself so they go back in correctly.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[dennismcd707]

I knew about the memory issue, so I know right from left side, but I didn't mark anything else. I think I read it's smart to make marks so things go back to where they were. I guess I'll find out what all the hub-ub is all about as soon as I start tackling the rear suspension.....probably this weekend or next.

I just forgot. I also have to order some torsion tube end caps. Mine have holes in 'em from rust.

As far as putting things back, I think I just insert the bar, attach spring plate, seal it up/draw it in with new torsion bar end caps. If the angle of the spring plate needs adjusting, that's when I have to count splines and move accordingly. (I saw a you tube video a while ago on it, plus I've done a little reading.)

Knowing is doing...... I guess Am I forgetting anything? Oh yea, I do have seats. Real cheap, and hard, like Boots Made of Chinese Plastic. But they're matching seats, and I plan on getting padded covers. The seats came with the rail.

And that reminds me of a song. (Boots of Chinese Plastic, by the Pretenders)


Link

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

Had a pretty easy time installing the torsion bars and spring plates, so that tells me that I'll probably be back adjusting everything once or twice more, once things start fitting together.

I'm about ready to install the axles. I already did a trial run. They fit in there just like they're supposed to. Feels great to have nice clean parts. (Of course that doesn't mean "SQUAT" when it comes to fitting new engine parts together, but that's another thread. )

My new torsion caps (I could only locate chrome) and urethane bushings arrived yesterday. I only ordered two of the bushings (one pair) when I actually needed four, so on the inside I used my old rubber ones. They're still in decent shape, and I don't think it's gonna affect anything really. But I know nothing, Jon Snow

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[heywebonya]

Are those new fulcrum plates? Mine do not have grooves on the back, are they for superior lubrication?

Good job, once you can sit in your buggy you can make engine noises - vroom, vroom!

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If I knew what I was doing; I wouldn't be building a buggy!

[dennismcd707]

I bought the fulcrum plates through Cip1, and like you, I'm guessing the grooves are for lubrication that is superior to none!

It also looks like the only engine noises that I'll be hearing for a while is me sitting in the dark, going VROOM VROOM VROOOOMMMmm. I'm still waiting on a crank for one of my engines, and the patience to continue working on the other. I've had nothing but problems with my "brand new" parts, so patience is what I'm in need of right now. And some time away from the engine would be good too. And as we all know, there's lots to do still on the rail.

I complain a little, vent a lot, but in the big scheme of things, I'm just having fun working on my hobby. Your buggy is coming along nicely, eh Jeff?
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[oldschool5er]

Those are Brazilian Fulcrum plates and are not the same quality as OE German as I have had several fail on me (as in shatter in pieces). I try to find and save every good used German fulcrum I can find. Weddle might be the only company I know of that might have good used German fulcrums unless somebody is making new other than Brazil. Btw German Fulcrums with a single groove down the middle are rare as hens teeth and denote them as oversize fulcrums. The double grooves in Brazilian are oiling but I believe it weakens them.
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HRE in Westerville,Ohio

Full machine shop with all types of CNC. Rapid prototyping available, CNC Plasma cutting, 3D printing and Laser engraving.

[dennismcd707]

....well I sure hope a problem doesn't arise from me using these fulcrum plates. I've got old used ones (OEM), but I thought I'd go with new. Hmmmm....

I went and got all my tires mounted today. Now they take up only half the storage space they once did. (I find delight in small doses sometimes) I was able to actually mount the front wheel to the rail, so I at least know that the fronts mount to the vehicle without any clearance issues. I don't have the transaxle assembled yet, so the photo shows the rear wheels 'mocked' in the approximate position. Still.......I think it looks much "MEANER" with these tires and wheels. Much cooler.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

I went ahead and mounted the trans today, then I proceeded with the long process of grinding the transmission down to accept a 12 volt flywheel. I was told that using an angle grinder is fast, but the magnesium is too soft and will cause problems filling up the grinding disk. I still might try it. The method I'm using isn't easy on the hands......plus it's slow.

I made a template out of cardboard so I don't have to use the heavy flywheel for a gage. I also ordered a new pair of snap ring pliers with long handles so I can make an easier go of installing the c clip on my axle shafts. That should be in the next couple of days. Then it's on to the axle tubes.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dustymojave]

Do you know how to fit the axle tubes and gaskets?

You put the inner plastic flower on the spherical part of the trans side plate 1st with a little grease smeared on both sides of the plastic. Then you put on 1 side gasket, then the axle tube on and snug down 3 nuts. If you can move the axle housing freely, it's too loose. Very unlikely with only 1 gasket. If it's tight and difficult to move the axle, it's too tight. That's probable. Factory spec is 2 gaskets +/-. When the axle housing moves with some minor resistance, you're good. Then take it back apart, and put a smear of silicon on the gaskets before you put it back together (don't get the silicon inside on the spherical parts or the plastic flower). Use loc-tite on the nuts before you torque them. When you're done with all this, the axle housing should still have minor resistance to movement, like suspension with a shock but no spring.

OH!!! Don't forget to install the axle shaft with the fulcrum plates before you install the axle tubes.

Don't fill the trans with grease until the axle bearings, brake backing plates and bearing caps with seals and gaskets are installed and torqued.

I don't know if you have researched all this already. But I know you're a noob at this stuff and the books don't explain it very well. Other noobs out there watching too.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[dennismcd707]

Thanks Richard. You're right, the books don't go into detail very much, and a limited supply of "how to" videos on youtube doesn't help me much. I appreciate the tips. It's been mock assembled already, and the gaskets already picked out, but you can bet I'm gonna be careful and will pay attention to the details. That's the plan anyway. I'm just waiting on a new pair of snap ring pliers. After that, then it's install the axles, then the tubes, brake backing plates, wheel bearings & seals, and lastly.......the gear lube.

I'll post as I move forward. It's quite possible I'm gonna have a question or two.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

Well, even though it was 92 and humid outside today, I spent a little bit more time again grinding away at my transmission. It's a slow process, so I'm doing a little bit at a time. I hope the flywheel ends up going on without too much aggravation. I'm guessing I'm probably less than half way through the grinding process.

Which leads me to the next hurdle to overcome. The dreaded 6 volt starter bushing that must be replaced. I've read or seen where a tap can be screwed into it to draw it out, or weaken it. If there's a special tool that can be bought, I'd buy it, even if I'd never use it again. That's how much I hate trying to figure out how to make my own home made tools. Anyway, the bushing has to be replaced. It's either that, or just buy a starter for a 1967 auto-stick trans, which doesn't need the support of the bushing. That might be the way to go. I'm kicking myself for not having it replaced when I had the trans rebuilt. It just slipped my mind.

I'm enjoying the air conditioning today and not really getting any work done. I'm blaming it on Mother Nature. Man, it's nasty HOT outside!
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[oldschool5er]

They did used to make a starter bushing removal tool at one time so maybe they still do. But really just going to your local auto zone or advance auto and get a SR17x starter is the way to go. I use those self supporting starters on any 12v flywheel engine I am installing. They are more powerful and you never have to worry about a bushing again. Half the time they even accept my old non supported starter as the core.
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HRE in Westerville,Ohio

Full machine shop with all types of CNC. Rapid prototyping available, CNC Plasma cutting, 3D printing and Laser engraving.

[dennismcd707]

......thanks for the nudge. The Bosch SR17x starter is available on Amazon for $117. I think that's the way I'm gonna go. No bushing troubles and it's got more power. No sense making things any harder for myself.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

I took the trans back out and put it on the bench. Much easier to grind certain spots on the trans if I'm able to flip it 180 degrees. As I said, this is slow going right now, and I can see how a person would be tempted to pick up his angle grinder to finish the job. I won't be doing that, because I was warned of the dangers. I guess the grinding disc fills up with the magnesium and can break apart, among other things.

Judging by the amount of material that I'm removing, I have to be making some major headway. I can make lots of little piles of magnesium chips, ..... so something is working. Unfortunately, my flywheel template still won't fit, plus, it's starting to fall apart around the edges. (the most important area) It's made of paper after all, so .....

I was thinking of installing the clutch pressure plate assembly to the flywheel, and then I'd be able to slide it on the shaft in the transmission. This would be a more accurate way of determining if I've ground out the necessary material for 12 volt flywheel clearance. The flywheel isn't light, so hopefully I can do this only a couple of times and be done.

.......and one last thing. Any suggestions on how to get the front trans mounts tight? I'm talking about the two nuts that attach to the studs on the front rubber trans mount. A socket won't fit one of the nuts and neither will a wrench. I even tried taking the nose cone off to have better access. There wasn't any. Then on top of that, there's two studs sticking out of the torsion tube on the sandrail, where the front trans mount attaches to. I can only tighten one of the nuts when installing the transmission. Not enough room to access both of them. I'm mentioning this because if anybody has any experience with this problem, I'd love to hear possible remedies. Any suggestion is appreciated! I don't want to have stuff "half-tight" because I can't tighten a certain nut.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)