2.0 ABA Swap

[h00drat]

[Vanagon Nut]

The later style passenger side bar should allow room for the Mk3 PS pump. Of note, I may end up using a 90º coolant pump elbow. That elbow interferes with the Mk3 PS bracket at block. I've read that material can be clearance on that bracket, but, depending on amount removed, I'd wonder about long term longevity of that bracket.

I now see your comments on fabrication, shop space.

For a 2wd 4 speed manual transmission WBX Vanagon:

'83 bar mount brackets are positioned to accommodate a VW I4 (up to '99?) engine mounted to the WBX transmission position. i.e. the arms of the ABA would line up with the diesel mounts. '82 style bar mount brackets are positioned further forward. They'd need to be cut, moved rearward to accommodate the VW I4 to the WBX transmission position.

There's a 'crate Tiico' build here. It shows the passenger side carrier bar and how it allows room for the Mk3 PS pump. If I'm not mistaken, it uses the '83 style bar. On that bar, the rear end sweeps hard right (as you look down, standing behind the van)

You should be able to find an ABA accessory bracket that accepts an AC compressor. There should be examples of AC/PS swaps here.

Neil.

Tiico install. Looks like the later style diesel bar. Looking down from rear, passenger side

This is my ABA swap in progress. V belt shown is a mock up. Image shows 90º coolant elbow I plan to use

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Vanagon Nut]

[h00drat]

Alright. So now I am leaning towards later style diesel bars (83+) OR syncro bars. It sounds like Syncro bars will allow for more room for the PS pump AND drop the engine lower, allowing for deck lid clearance. Best of both worlds?

Considering this setup if shipping isn't an arm and leg.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2109786

Tony makes a great product, but $$$.
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[h00drat]

Progress. Got the wiring harness & ECO pulled from the FOX last night.

Oddly, it appears to be a Digifant 1 model (California?). Not sure exactly how this will differ from the DF2, which is what I expected it to be.

Next step, I need to get the 1.8 motor out of the Fox to scavenge some parts from it. Then, I need to start working on the 2.0 motor.

Questions for this morning...

1. Any brand or source preferred for timing belt?
2. Should I replace the timing belt tension pulley while I'm at it?
3. Going to replace rubber seals/oring on the front of the motor, as well as the rear main seal. Preferred brand/source for this?

_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[Vanagon Nut]

The VW part number on ECU shows hits for Digifant I California and early 90's VW Fox. You could compare ECU connector wires to the left hand column table to be sure:

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/management/digifant1.html

Gates makes good belts. Contitech too.

Yes. Replace timing belt tensioner. VW updated the tensioner stud. I think it has a larger OD at tensioner end. To check timing marks before removing belt, turn engine by crank bolt only. (not cam).

After replacing the crank seal, replace the crank pulley bolt. A tool can be made out of thick plate or box steel, nuts bolts, old sockets, to hold cam or IM shaft pulley when removing their bolt. With engine on stand I used a wood post with legs to brace tool. I will torque crank bolt with engine installed, in gear, brake on. My engine stand didn't have room for flywheel.

This is a field repair, I just used bolts on tool but gives you the idea of tool to steady cam and IM shaft pulley.

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[h00drat]

I don't know why I am having such a hard time pulling the trigger on parts for this conversion. Maybe it's A - because they're really expensive, or B - because there are so many options, and so many opinions floating around.

I am basically ready to purchase the carrier bars/mounts and an oil pan. However, I'm still torn between syncro carrier bars and standard carrier bars. Syncro bars will cost me a bit more, but allow more clearance for the 2.0 cross flow head. Looking at anywhere from $600 - 800 for this stuff. $600 for 2wd, probably close to $800 for syncro bars (including oil pan).

EDIT: I guess there is always the option of dropped the carriers with spacers rather than spending the extra $$$ on syncro bars.

I want to buy the stuff to recondition the 2.0, but again, not sure what to buy, or where from. I have an email in to tektronics. Hoping they can help out. Here is my list for the 2.0...

1. Timing Belt
2. Timing Belt Tensioner
3. Water Pump
4. Thermostat
5. The three seals and oring on the front of the motor
6. A PTFE rear main seal
7. Distributor adapter to put the 1.8 distributor on the 2.0 motor - (I think it's this part - http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_pa...s_id=1371)

Just don't want to buy the wrong stuff, or cheap stuff
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[Vanagon Nut]

An engine conversion usually takes a lot of thought and planning and typically takes longer than planned. And, things can change. In as much as I planned ahead, when a free complete ABA came my way ("hey lets learn how to rebuild an engine! Time to bug list for block honing info!" ) then a $500 CND complete 1.8 + early style diesel parts donor showed up, my plans changed. The engine position choice can be a challenge. BTDT. But here's how I now see this; on my current daily driver 15º ABA, even with a 4" engine lid tub and minimal ground clearance, I've had a LOT of great trips over different terrain and it still runs great. i.e. On my pending 50º swap, I won't sweat a ~ 2" loss [edit: or whatever it will be] and a small bump in the engine lid.

check out these images:

https://vanagolf.shutterfly.com/310

One shows what is likely an early style diesel bar and theres an image of hump at engine cover.

Heres another ABA swap showing a bunch more detail and images of same "hump". IIRC, this was a factory diesel Vanagon. Images have comments posted by author:

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10420199252568...source=pwa

The pump, belts, seals are pretty standard stuff. Have a look around rockauto.com and azautohaus.com Check out the various brands and prices. The price can be a strong indicator. e.g. I think its "Uro" that is not a great brand and this is reflected in the pricing. For the most part, some brands you'll be dealing with are Meyle, Febi, Gates, Contitech; those brands are common to many European vehicles. Parts quality can run the gamut regardless of brand name.

I'm sure you've seen this but if not, check out parts and DIY kit pricing for Foreign Auto Supply, various 1.8T kits. e.g. $3K vs way more! That should put things into perspective. Another way to look at this; some of the money you will save doing this swap yourself can be put toward any other needed repairs; a swap is only as good as its' ancillary components!

IIRC, since you have access to shop and tools, I'd suggest that most anything can be made to work. At some simple level, its just time and metal the latter of which is pretty cheap.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[tristessa]

In addition to the parts listed, I'd also replace the valve cover and oil pan gaskets, and make sure you get the front seal housing-to-block gasket as well. Change the seal on the oil warmer/cooler above the filter unless you delete it for a true oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich adapter.

If you make a trek into Portland, Halsey Import Parts should have everything but the distributor adapter on the shelf. Call ahead and they can have it waiting when you get there, and maybe pick Rob's brain while you're at it -- he's put a TIICO or at least TIICO-style swap in his Adventurewagen.

[h00drat]

Thanks for the info guys. I know at some point I need to just pull the trigger, and then learn as I go. I have all of these parts in my TT shopping cart: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rtbqwdpv52d87pa/Screenshot%202017-11-15%2015.05.13.png?dl=0

I'd love to support local, so maybe I'll hit up a Portland shop or two.

I think I'll go with the carrier kit from Quality German Auto. Sounds like a decent deal. They also have a complete short blog seal kit they will send me for $60. May include all of the above mentioned items.
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[h00drat]

Hey Neil, what hose kit did you use?

I found, what I think is the complete silicone hose kit in Europe for less than here in the US, even with shipping.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/engine-conve...black.html
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[h00drat]

So the kit from Quality German comes with the oil pan, filler tube (which I'm assuming uses the license plate door) and the oil pump pick up tube. I can get the dip stick tube and dip stick to go out the license plate door for another $125.

Worth it!?!? or just lift the engine lid to check the oil...

Maybe they'd swap the filler tube with the dipstick tube if I'm willing to fill the motor through the valve cover, but can still check the oil via the license plate door
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[Vanagon Nut]

[h00drat]

$300+ for a set of hoses sounds crazy to me, so I’ll research the aba hoses a bit more.

I did see your comment a about the coolant pump outlet below the water pump. I’m assuming that is what you’re referring to.

I won’t know how everything lines up until I get the carrier bars, water pump, power steering pump, etc all mounted up.

Some of the hoses on my ABA motor were cut, so they will at least need replaced.
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[Vanagon Nut]

[h00drat]

Oh ya. I did see that. I’ll check the pump style before I purchase.
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[Vanagon Nut]

[h00drat]

Nah. It's all good. The guys at Halsey have a bunch of parts, including a WP set aside for me. Not sure when I'll get over there, but I'll check the pump style before purchasing.
_________________
<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
Auto Trans Rebuild - Image Gallery

[dkoesyncro]

I've done an ABA at 15° in a Syncro, it's an excellent engine choice. I started down the obd1 path, in the end it's an obd1 engine with obd2 management. I chose this for a cleaner bay less cluttered.

I know you're feeling overwhelmed at this point, I was to! You mentioned having a good work space, I had a roof, daylight and gravel. This being said, take your time and build it. Hans J and Neil have both built engine carriers that look to perform well. Part of the 15° install is you can look at the fox from the passengers fender and any other VW and know that's how it's going to look. No need for the shortened oil pump or an aluminum oil pan.

I'm in Oregon City if you have questions or would like a hand. I eventually built my own coolant lines out of steel and readily available rubber 90° and regular coolant hose.

[h00drat]