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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Thanks much Tyler. FWIW, IIRC, bolt holes at breather should have metal inserts; they obviously take the fastener pressure but yes; not much torque needed I'd think. Good to see what muffler you'll use. Appreciate the link.

Neil.
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA

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h00drat
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 1:00 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
Thanks much Tyler. FWIW, IIRC, bolt holes at breather should have metal inserts; they obviously take the fastener pressure but yes; not much torque needed I'd think. Good to see what muffler you'll use. Appreciate the link.

Neil.


Yes, they have metal inserts, but I could see them being overtorqued quite easily.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:21 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:
Vanagon Nut wrote:
Thanks much Tyler. FWIW, IIRC, bolt holes at breather should have metal inserts; they obviously take the fastener pressure but yes; not much torque needed I'd think.

Neil.


Yes, they have metal inserts, but I could see them being overtorqued quite easily.


For sure. Smile just making sure. "Devils in the details".
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h00drat
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Finally an update. Haven't had as much time in the shop lately.

A little grinding and the waterpump is on. Also sprayed some paint on the front side of the motor just to keep rust away.

The biggest step was getting the oil pan on. Finally feels like I'm making progress.

Still need to pick up bolts so I can get the breather on. Getting really close to putting the head back on.

Now I'm dealing with this stupid timing belt cover issue. My motor came with an upper cover, but no lower. I found a lower on eBay from a 98, but they don't match up. They must have changed from OBD1 to OBD2? So, hopefully I can send it back and keep looking for an OBD1 lower.

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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:


Now I'm dealing with this stupid timing belt cover issue. My motor came with an upper cover, but no lower. I found a lower on eBay from a 98, but they don't match up. They must have changed from OBD1 to OBD2? So, hopefully I can send it back and keep looking for an OBD1 lower.



I'm going through something similar; missing upper cover.

Is it possible your lower cover is for a 1.8 ? Google part number? That said, in my case, it seems a 1.8 upper cover *kind of* fits the 2.0 lower cover.

Neil.
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h00drat
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 11:15 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
h00drat wrote:


Now I'm dealing with this stupid timing belt cover issue. My motor came with an upper cover, but no lower. I found a lower on eBay from a 98, but they don't match up. They must have changed from OBD1 to OBD2? So, hopefully I can send it back and keep looking for an OBD1 lower.



I'm going through something similar; missing upper cover.

Is it possible your lower cover is for a 1.8 ? Google part number? That said, in my case, it seems a 1.8 upper cover *kind of* fits the 2.0 lower cover.

Neil.


Honestly, I think it's my upper cover that might be weird. At any rate, I ordered a new upper cover that will match up to the new lower. Hopefully that works out. My style upper cover is going for twice as much on eBay, so that's nice. But I CANOT find the lower cover that would match up to my upper cover anywhere. Very weird.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 11:32 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:
Vanagon Nut wrote:


Is it possible your lower cover is for a 1.8 ? Google part number? That said, in my case, it seems a 1.8 upper cover *kind of* fits the 2.0 lower cover.

Neil.


Honestly, I think it's my upper cover that might be weird. At any rate, I ordered a new upper cover that will match up to the new lower. Hopefully that works out. My style upper cover is going for twice as much on eBay, so that's nice. But I CANOT find the lower cover that would match up to my upper cover anywhere. Very weird.


Hmm..... well, odd. But this stuff is kind of new to me too.

Jim Ellis shows ABA 2.0 and ACC 1.8 having different part numbers for upper/lower covers but shows same part numbers for obd1 and obd2 years:

1994 Jetta upper/lower covers

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?...gory=21729

1998 ""

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?...gory=21729
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA

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h00drat
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:20 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Part number for the lower comes up ABA: 048109175A

I don't have the part number for my upper, but it looks like this might be it: 1E0109107A

The upper I ordered today is this: 037109123C

If you look at the two uppers, you can see an obvious difference in design.

All of my searches are telling me that the upper cover I have belongs on a Cabrio. So maybe my motor is from a Cabrio, not a Jetta or Golf after all. Not sure that it matters as long as the new covers work Smile
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:
Part number for the lower comes up ABA: 048109175A

I don't have the part number for my upper, but it looks like this might be it: 1E0109107A

The upper I ordered today is this: 037109123C

If you look at the two uppers, you can see an obvious difference in design.

All of my searches are telling me that the upper cover I have belongs on a Cabrio. So maybe my motor is from a Cabrio, not a Jetta or Golf after all. Not sure that it matters as long as the new covers work Smile


The Cabrio has an engine mount at pulley end of engine and I think the later model ABA uses a different toothed belt tensioner? This may account for design differences? I don't know. Anyhow.... as you say. As long as it works.

Neil.
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h00drat
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:00 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
h00drat wrote:
Part number for the lower comes up ABA: 048109175A

I don't have the part number for my upper, but it looks like this might be it: 1E0109107A

The upper I ordered today is this: 037109123C

If you look at the two uppers, you can see an obvious difference in design.

All of my searches are telling me that the upper cover I have belongs on a Cabrio. So maybe my motor is from a Cabrio, not a Jetta or Golf after all. Not sure that it matters as long as the new covers work Smile


The Cabrio has an engine mount at pulley end of engine and I think the later model ABA uses a different toothed belt tensioner? This may account for design differences? I don't know. Anyhow.... as you say. As long as it works.

Neil.


Yep. It's that engine mount that makes it unique. I'll remove the mount and the Jetta/Golf lower and upper should work just fine. Onward.
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<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
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h00drat
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Question for you guys on the oil priming top, again..

My original plan was to wait to fill with oil and prime until the motor was in the van. After thinking about this, I wonder if I aught to do this on the stand once, and then prime again prior to first start.

Reason being, what if something is wrong with the oil system? Wouldn't it be better to learn this on the stand so that I can fix it more easily?

Question part 2, how would I even know if something was wrong? Other than pulling the valve cover off to see if oil is making it's way to the head.

Once the motor is in the van and it starts I'll have high and low pressure warnings, I hope, but on the bench, or while priming, I would have no such warning that something isn't working right.

Just getting ready to put the head back on, so this crossed my mind.

Any input appreciated.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Connect low pressure oil light switch to a 9 volt battery with meter or test light in circuit? Once oil system is primes, meter should show an open switch (or test light goes off)? (i.e. act same as when you start engine, oil light goes off)

Neil.
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h00drat
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:21 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
Connect low pressure oil light switch to a 9 volt battery with meter or test light in circuit? Once oil system is primes, meter should show an open switch (or test light goes off)? (i.e. act same as when you start engine, oil light goes off)

Neil.


Interesting.

I guess yeah, oil pressure is one test... But I'm also curious, what if an oil passage is blocked, or something, and I don't get oil to one of the cam journals....

Maybe I'm just thinking about it too much and being overly concerned that I might mess something up. ha
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:
Vanagon Nut wrote:
Connect low pressure oil light switch to a 9 volt battery with meter or test light in circuit? Once oil system is primes, meter should show an open switch (or test light goes off)? (i.e. act same as when you start engine, oil light goes off)

Neil.


Interesting.

I guess yeah, oil pressure is one test... But I'm also curious, what if an oil passage is blocked, or something, and I don't get oil to one of the cam journals....

Maybe I'm just thinking about it too much and being overly concerned that I might mess something up. ha


Possibly over thinking but far be it for me to call that "kettle black"; I over think and sometimes in the wrong direction. Wink Regardless, I get what you mean. Especially from a newb builder POV.

Sorry. Thinking more, even if a passage was blocked, oil would still get pumped through filter, then in-out of other passages back to the pan. IOW, oil would circulate regardless of block, causing pressure to get high enough to cause the low pressure oil light to open (normal).

Neil.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

If you real want to ck the oil pressure on the stand with out the engine running you can spin the intermediate shaft or just spin the oil pump with a drill. I put a mechanical gauge in the oil port on the head and spun the intermediate shaft my self. Good luck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:44 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

82westyrabbit wrote:
If you real want to ck the oil pressure on the stand with out the engine running you can spin the intermediate shaft or just spin the oil pump with a drill. I put a mechanical gauge in the oil port on the head and spun the intermediate shaft my self. Good luck


Good input. I'm sure it will all be fine Confused

Been thinking a bit about the coolant lines lately. I re-read the coolant thread and found a page where it talks about manual vs. automatic coolant flanges. I have the automatic version, so it has an extra outlet on the flange. Leaning towards replacing with the manual version so that I don't have to deal with capping an extra coolant line. Opinions?
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 1:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

h00drat wrote:

Been thinking a bit about the coolant lines lately. I re-read the coolant thread and found a page where it talks about manual vs. automatic coolant flanges. I have the automatic version, so it has an extra outlet on the flange. Leaning towards replacing with the manual version so that I don't have to deal with capping an extra coolant line. Opinions?


If you have two separate temp sensors (gauge, ecu) with one cap, you should be able to make use of both holes. Or, just buy another cap. If existing flange ok, either method would save a few bucks. Sometimes, the older VW sensors are better quality than aftermarket. You'd need two 2 pin connectors but they could be harvested from Fox harness? (can't recall if you're going to run digi or mortronic)

Neil.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:24 am    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:

If you have two separate temp sensors (gauge, ecu) with one cap, you should be able to make use of both holes. Or, just buy another cap. If existing flange ok, either method would save a few bucks. Sometimes, the older VW sensors are better quality than aftermarket. You'd need two 2 pin connectors but they could be harvested from Fox harness? (can't recall if you're going to run digi or mortronic)

Neil.


Running Motronic. The flange still has the two sensors in it. But in addition to the 2 sensors, it has 3 outlets. IIRC, one straight out, and two at an angle. I believe one of the two angled pipes needs capped, but I could be wrong.

A little progress over the weekend. Head and new head gasket are on and torqued! That was a little nerve wracking, for some reason...but it's on. Next up is the cam.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Got the breather on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And started fitting accessories. Since most of these were removed before I got the motor, I find myself on a hardware hunt every time I move on to something else, which is annoying.

I'm definitely going to have to do some more research on power steering pump location. Either that, or shave the crap out of the bracket to clear the tstat housing.

I may still consider the TDI alternator bracket as I've heard it sits lower than the ABA one does. TBD on that.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Nice to see the progress. One sensor you see is likely for AC. Regardless, the Motronic temp sensor is actually 2 sensors built into one housing. It has 4 pins; 2 for gauge, 2 for ECU. (1 of each pair goes to ground) Sensor connector has pin numbers. As you likely know, this is true for other VW connectors.

When mounted in van: 1.25" outlet pointing forward off flange; coolant to rad. Outlet pointing toward driver side; to heater core. Remaining outlet; most likely for Jetta automatic tranny cooler. Use that for Vanagon auto tranny cooler?

edit: what coolant inlet are you using at pump?

Neil.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
Nice to see the progress. One sensor you see is likely for AC. Regardless, the Motronic temp sensor is actually 2 sensors built into one housing. It has 4 pins; 2 for gauge, 2 for ECU. (1 of each pair goes to ground) Sensor connector has pin numbers. As you likely know, this is true for other VW connectors.

When mounted in van: 1.25" outlet pointing forward off flange; coolant to rad. Outlet pointing toward driver side; to heater core. Remaining outlet; most likely for Jetta automatic tranny cooler. Use that for Vanagon auto tranny cooler?

Neil.


Yeah...I'll be installing an after market auto trans cooler during the swap, so sure, why not use it?

I'm going to dig into the 1.8 parts motor I have to see if the PS pump/mount or the alternator mount could come in handy.
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<<Tyler>>
1987.5 Wolfsburg Weekender / CHC / 2.0 ABA
CHC Top Thread
Engine Conversion Thread (2.0 ABA Swap)
ABA Swap - Image Gallery
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