Distributor issue/question

[hazmatty3614]

I posted recently about the 1600 not running well after a tune up kit from JBugs. I learned from the PO that he put a tune-up kit in it that is intended for an 009, but this is an SVDA. The JBugs site says it will only work with an 009.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/VW_TUNE_UP_KIT_3.html

I assume this is the root of my idle and stalling issues. Why would the rotor, cap, and Pertronix points conversion be so incompatible with the distributor?

I have ordered a Pertronix 12v SVDA distributor with electronic ignition pre-installed, and a new Bosch blue can coil just to have all new. Can I expect this to improve how the car runs?

[bhartwell59]

maybe... what carb do you have?
_________________
'74 Zambezi green Ghia vert, autostick, 101k
'87 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2, 330k

[hazmatty3614]

It’s a Chinese H30? Knockoff.

[Figment]

Never afraid to ask the dumb question: Did you check/reset the ignition timing after changing out all of those ignition parts?
_________________
'71 Ghia coupe

[hazmatty3614]

Yes I timed it to 7.5 BTDC. Tried 0 TDC also.

[NOVA Airhead]

[wcfvw69]

[heimlich]

Buy a restored distributor, rebuild your own, or have someone rebuild one for you.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[c21darrel]

[hazmatty3614]

As you can all tell, I’m new to this. I apologize for not knowing the answers. I appreciate the feedback. I think I’m going o get the car to the nearest expert even though it will cost me $150 to get it there.

[c21darrel]

It can get expensive being new to aircooled VW's. In the future it wont get cheaper. Know this, Generally speaking, "New" parts do not often equal better than refurbished original parts. Sad but true. You know the biblical quote .... Teach a man to fish...
Do you have the Muir Idiot Book? That and researching here on thesamba will help you as much or more than the $150 visit to the "expert". Good Luck.
_________________
GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[heimlich]

There are some good new parts. There are better NOS parts. Just come and ask around here and folks can help you out.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[fes]

X2^^
Before you start playin "parts darts" and paying $150 to get it to wherever,
Let's go through some things together..
First,give us some history..did the car ever run right and what has been done since..
I looked through your gallery and it seems you have some sort of generic PICT 34-3..and an Svda dizzy..
Lets start here..
Get the car running and start searching for vacuum leaks,use unlit propane,starter fluid or carb cleaner (messy)..start at the throttle shafts on the carb, around the base and so on..cheap carbs can be known for having cheesey play in certain areas and a warped base.. just spray all over the fasteners/visible connections of the carb, and listen for RPM change. (having a non KIDDE fire extinguisher near never is a bad idea)

Its hard to tell from your photo,but it looks like you have a dual port..spray around the rubber or silicone boots,,then work your way down to the manifolds where the connect to the heads..

No air leaks? good..shut her down

Now take the hose off the carb from the vacuum can on the distributor and take the cap off..manually move the advance plate and suck air with your mouth through the hose..like a straw and hold your tongue on it..then let go of the advance plate and see if it stays..let the pressure go from your mouth and see if it snaps back....this sounds easier than it is sometimes..

Assuming your points gap/dwell are correct,the felt on the shaft under the rotor is lubed with a couple drops of oil,advance plate G spots are lubed.. and every thing seems sound, put everything back together,disconnect the hose from the vacuum can and plug it (the hose)with a golf tee,(after hooking the hose back up to the carb..)

The timing should now be set to 28 degrees +/- BTDC at over 3000 rpm..this is tricky to do on a stock pulley and there are measurements you use and also a template that can be downloaded..personally,I swear by quality degree mark pulleys,not for everyone though..where the timing lands at idle after this procedure is where it lands..

There is also other things to be tested,like the condenser and the coil..but we will let you fill in the blanks a little first as to what has been changed since you've had the car etc.

There is so much info out there,and if you don't have the proper tools,(timing light,dwell meter) and manuals..save your $150 for that kind of long life investment..Good Luck!!

PS,get that acorn fuel filter far away from the distributor,make sure all your fuel lines and connectors are sound and try and block off the random sheetmetal holes in your engine tin..the idea is to hold a work light under the motor in the dark and see as little light above as possible

Sorry for the long winded post
-Matt
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[KGCoupe]

[c21darrel]

LOL^^^
Where have you been?
_________________
GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[hazmatty3614]

Today I swapped out the SVDA Distributor with a brand new one and a brand new blue Bosch coil. The coil was not reading within the ranges in the Bentley.

Static timed it all to 7.5 BTDC and cranked it up.
Set the idle at 950 with the dwell tach. It was running better. No missing at least. (My smoke issue is an ATF leak onto the exhaust.)

As soon as I gave it a touch of throttle, it died and wouldn't restart. It's sounding more like a carb issue to me now....

[fes]

[quote= It's sounding more like a carb issue to me now....[/quote]

It's likely..did you test for air leaks? I ask this because air leaks cause the car to run lean.. And with the choke closed,it's enriching the mixture,essentially tricking the engine into running normal..as soon as you kick the throttle down,it opens the choke and leans everything way out again..causing the engine to stall usually..You still don't say what manufacturer of that carb you have now..It is possible that the idle circuit passages are blocked with crap internally,the jets (main volume jet and idle jet )are incorrect..
Also,you should test the idle shut off solenoid as well.

Not sure of your local VW community,but is it possible to borrow a known good carb from someone for the test?
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[hazmatty3614]

Pertronix SVDA with Ignitor module.
Bosch Blue Coil
No-name carb??

What I checked today is the coil output, static timing, and the accel. pump is squirting. I also adjusted the idle to 95 for the Autostick.

The carb has no markings on the sides. Not sure if there is something on the back. I think this may be part of the problem.

When I bought the car it ran. Really poorly, but it ran.

I haven't observed a vac leak when spraying the connections.

I don't know if I should pull the carb and rebuild or buy one.

[bhartwell59]

did you spray around the carb throttle shaft bushings? those pesky things wear and start to leak
_________________
'74 Zambezi green Ghia vert, autostick, 101k
'87 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2, 330k

[fes]

Well If you say it always ran like crap,then you're kind of between a rock and a hard place as far as diagnosis goes.

Call me crazy,but maybe the PO was having same problems as you have,decided to buy a new carb,thinking it was the problem,didn't fix it and gave up..
You can never go wrong with a known,rebuilt and tested proper Solex from some of the suppliers like Volkbitz,He tests and tunes before sending it off..

IT is possible that that carb you have now is garbage..Chinese copy's are only as good as the young child getting paid dick all a day to put it together.some are better than others.

I am however,finding good results with the newer Empi pict 34-3s
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)