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vanonimous
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2013
Posts: 362
Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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 Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:54 pm Post subject: Vanagon LED lighting upgrades and HID projector retrofit |
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These are some random lighting notes others might find useful.
I felt like my van’s lighting (91 Carat) was just miles behind today’s lights on the road, interior and exterior. LEDs are becoming standard and so are projectors. I never liked the looks of round SA headlights as they remind me of older vans and I didn’t think square E-code lenses were all that much better for illumination.
When doing this first obstacle you come across is legality. Legality of modifying lighting on your car is questionable in all US states. Also foggy headlights are problematic as well as rusty reflectors, holes or cracks in glass, non-stock bulbs, E-code lenses, foreign kits etc. The list goes on. You touch it and bam, you might have crossed the line. I decided to upgrade where I thought appropriate and follow code as much as possible. That laid aside I got an extra set of square headlights from a local guy so I’d have a back up.
The original headlight circuits aren’t relayed so that has to be fixed before anything. Just putting them on relays appears to improve the light output. I split headlights from inner squares and set them on separate switched circuits, 30amp relays and 15amp fuses.
Second, generally speaking US headlight lenses are just horrible for illumination and only OK for visibility. E-codes are a bit better for illumination but they all just pale in comparison with performance of HID projectors. Convex lens at work.
TT HEADLIGHTS and FOGLIGHTS:
I have seen people converting American 7x6 plastic housings to projectors but I wanted to use original 7x5 metal ones for support since the projectors are kind of heavy. Gutted them out, welded washers for projector attachments and painted mains flat black to avoid spilling any light from reflector.
My state allows two headlights high/low, two fog lights and two spot lights per non commercial vehicle. The later two pairs have to be switched separately so I used a Porsche fog light switch to match the switches on dash. Pairs have to emit same intensity lights.
For this prototype I used generic 2.5 bi-xenon projectors with H1 5000K bulbs for illumination and converted inners to spot lights with H3 4300K bulbs for greater visibility in fog or snow. All ballasts are 35W. Lenses are home brew vacuum formed optical grade acrylic which doesn’t distort the light like glass does. Acrylic has to be polished now and then or replaced. I sealed the lenses with butyl rubber. Lowest are regular halogen 35W fog lights 13” away from road surface for state legality.
Adjusting the beams is very easy as long as adjusters aren’t brittle
Alighting the bi-xenon flap horizontally in the housing was a bit tricky. You basically have to install the lights, turn them on and see where you are at.
Headlight beams give off incredible illumination. Clear cut off and very usable light spectrum.
Spotlights give off short range broad illumination but more importantly I think they give visibility in heavy fog or snowy conditions. Wife calls them tittie lights.
The only thing I haven’t figured is how to seal the spot where the bulb enters projector from behind the housing.
EXTERIOR:
Front turn signals with positioning amber T10 wedge 42 SMD LED and bayonet amber 1157 42 SMD LED. I connected positioning bulb to turn signal for very bright front turn signals since 1157s already have positioning function.
I used a load independent (or electronic) flasher to make turn signals flash normally. If doing this make sure you are getting one that matches polarity of the original since 3 prong ones come in all possible variables. I lost track of what I used but got it at Autozone.
Rear turn signal and back up light: bayonet pure white 1156 120 SMD LEDs. 120 LEDs brightness is superb. The TS whiteness is borderline overwhelming the lens color. Any more light and it would have to be emitted amber.
Tail light bayonet 1156 42SMD white LED (so not to overwhelm the brake light)
I left brake light bulbs original so the cruise control would continue to work.
Next, high mount LED third brake light. I have to stop by the junkyard to see what I can find.
INTERIOR:
Dome lights: 3x42mm festoon 16 surface mounted LED
Map light: 1x3mm festoon 6 surface mounted LED
Instruments: 4xT5 B8.3D 1 SMD LED – brightness WOW!
Heater controls: no spec, got these from GW. As a hint you can change rear heater control bulb easily when instruments are out. Main heater control knobs break easily when pulled, grab them at stalk not by the head.
Next: a redo using 3” halo projectors, 55W ballasts and a 65W LED bar for off road use on a syncro.
I’ll post more pictures as time permits.
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If happiness is being a mechanic, owning a Vanagon is nirvana.
Lighting upgrades: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578291 |
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canasync
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Joined: June 28, 2010
Posts: 656
Location: BC
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| Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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I have been tossing around this idea for my van. Thanks for the write up and pics. Could you maybe take a couple more pictures showing the lights closeup but head on?
If you could also take a picture or two of the grill of with detail of how you fitted them into the metal buckets that would be great.
Look forward to the updates too. 
_________________
1987 Syncro
3 knobs
PumpeDüse TDI (17mm Garret Turbo, bigger injectors, stage 4 malone tune, intercooled)
Cruise Control
Remote Start/locks
Custom Lift
Custom Bumpers with receivers
Coast Mountain Hightop - Comming Soon
1985 2wd Vanagon Pre-runner in the making
soon to be powered by 2.5L Subaru
Custom Lift |
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vanonimous
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Joined: October 19, 2013
Posts: 362
Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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| Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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Takes me a while to do this I am preoccupied with projects...
Here is a shot head on:
With flash so the light is a bit neutered:
Original lights and in need of adjustment. This is almost total darkness!:
HID in action, I'll try to take some better pics next time:
I am collecting parts for the next set of lights so maybe I can document the project a bit better. I get these attacks of creative energy and can't stop to take a picture. 
The fitment in the bucket was easy. You grind off the original epoxy and pull the 9004 receptacle out. That leaves three tabs to hold a properly sized washer in place. Tack weld it, 5 minute epoxy to seal the washer to the bucket. Projector has a threaded end with a nut, position it and lock it in place.
Hang in there for the upcoming visual.
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:45 am Post subject: |
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Good job going with the complete projector retrofit. Let us know how the acrylic holds up over time. Factory plastic lenses have a hardcoat that lasts for a few years before the scratches and yellowing start to make the optics less than ideal.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
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vanonimous
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Joined: October 19, 2013
Posts: 362
Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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| Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks! I figured I just replace them if they ever get tired but optical acrylic polishes nice if needed.
Here are some pictures from current conversion to a bi-xenon projector with integral halo. I'll post more as I go of course.
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goffoz
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Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 1486
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| Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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totally awsome 
been researching this myself...very impressed by your efforts
look forward to the acrylic forming something I've never done.
ABS but not acrylic  |
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alain riaud
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Joined: October 13, 2011
Posts: 172
Location: France
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| Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:13 am Post subject: |
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SOLDERING ALL CONNECTION IS A GOOD IDEA 
NO
It's the best way to have a broken connection due to vibrations.
In any mobile equipment, the wiring has to be flexible. |
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vanonimous
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2013
Posts: 362
Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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| Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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| goffoz wrote: |
totally awsome
been researching this myself...very impressed by your efforts
look forward to the acrylic forming something I've never done.
ABS but not acrylic |
I tried doing some Lexan but it just isn't as pliable. It is possible though. Lexan is a legal requirement if person is directly behind it (like a windscreen) since it doesn't shatter and it is scratch resistant. I think harder to polish though.
Wait till you see my million dollar vacuum forming technology you'll be laughing hard.
| alain riaud wrote: |
SOLDERING ALL CONNECTION IS A GOOD IDEA
NO
It's the best way to have a broken connection due to vibrations.
In any mobile equipment, the wiring has to be flexible. |
That sounds like something out of an engineering manual. Here in the US we teach soldering all connections in service and repair end of things. ASE teaches it, marine and motorcycle specifically as well as military service. This is because a tinned copper connection is electrically superior and won't corrode in presence of H2O or NaCl. Also, a properly crimped connection is as rigid a a soldered one. Manufacturing is a different story. They work fast, cheap and have expensive crimping assembly equipment. In 25 years I've never had one soldered connection brake. But many had to be replaced due to corrosion. So for me yes, do solder and heatshrink connections on moving systems. Merci!
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tristessa
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Joined: April 07, 2004
Posts: 3992
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:00 pm Post subject: |
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| vanonimous wrote: |
| Wait till you see my million dollar vacuum forming technology you'll be laughing hard. |
Any interest in using that fancy high-tech setup to make bubbles for 7" H4's in place of the original glass? |
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whynotvw
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Joined: May 04, 2004
Posts: 1322
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| Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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I like  |
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
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Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:06 am Post subject: |
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Properly made soldered connections (such as the ones shown in the photo above) will not weaken the wiring or the terminal connection.
The problems that are sometimes found with soldered joints are typically only seen when way too much heat is applied during the soldering process. This shows up as melted insulation on the wires. Overheating copper wire makes it harder and more brittle, often resulting in failed connections at solder points in the high vibration automotive environment.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
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Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:17 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
| Any interest in using that fancy high-tech setup to make bubbles for 7" H4's in place of the original glass? |
I am not sure if this idea was meant as a joke or not, but I can assure you that replacing an OEM glass headlight lens with non-hardcoated acrylic would be a downgrade to the longevity and lighting performance in every possible way imaginable.
Design elements such as fluting and the basic parabolic shape of a glass lens make a considerable difference in the way the headlight functions. I honestly think we are very lucky to still have a wide selection of high quality 7" round glass lenses available that work incredibly well on our vans compared to the lack of quality replacement lenses available for most vehicles on the market today. Here are a few of the reasons why: (warning, you are about to read a rambling discourse from a self-admitted "headlight nerd". I am currently seeking therapy, but it seems to be a fairly rare condition)
Starting in the mid 1980's the use of thermoplastics such as acrylic in automotive headlamps was seen as a great development from a manufacturing standpoint, since it is significantly cheaper to work with than optical quality glass in terms of the cost of machinery, tooling, shipping and obviously product loss to breakage. The use of thermoplastics allows manufacturers to make much smaller runs of plastic components in different shapes and sizes that work well with the body lines of new vehicle designs than could ever be viable compared to their glass counterparts.
Unfortunately, the average usable lifespan of a plastic headlamp can't come close to matching that of a glass headlight lens. This can be seen every day when looking at modern vehicles with hazy headlamps that are often only a few years old.
OEM plastic headlamps are treated with a thermally cured silicone hardcoat that is significantly more abrasion resistant than the base polymer that the lens is formed from. This coating is applied in a clean room setting and is cured with a combination of heat and UV light in most cases.
With the effects of time and weather, the silicone hardcoat on the plastic lens begins to scratch, yellow slightly and lose its optical clairty. This is noticeable as the haze that is apparent on the headlamps of so many newer vehicles.
There are tons of "headlight restoration" products on the market that claim to "make your headlights shine like new again". Unfortunately non of these products have anywhere near the lifespan of the original hardcoat applied by the manufacturer, so they usually have to be applied at least once a year to maintain an acceptable looking lens.
Aside from looking pretty bad in general, having hazy headlight lenses creates a lot of glare for oncoming traffic and reduces the amount of properly focused light on the road.
Using a replaceable thermoplastic shield to preserve the surface of a quality glass headlight lens is unquestionably a great idea. This is pretty much what the original post shows and the author seems to be well aware of the need to maintain and/or replace the acrylic as required when they start getting scratched or hazy. Scratched headlight lenses of any material quickly become more of an output robbing filter than simply unpleasant to look at.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
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tristessa
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Joined: April 07, 2004
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
| Quote: |
| Any interest in using that fancy high-tech setup to make bubbles for 7" H4's in place of the original glass? |
I am not sure if this idea was meant as a joke or not, but I can assure you that replacing an OEM glass headlight lens with non-hardcoated acrylic would be a downgrade to the longevity and lighting performance in every possible way imaginable. |
It wasn't meant as a joke -- I've got a couple sets of HID projectors, a couple pairs of sacrificial 7" H4 housings ($20 Fleabay specials), and little space behind the headlight buckets on my '75 Bus. If I retrofit either of the projectors I've got behind the existing (clear) glass on my H4's, I have to add more length to the rear of the H4 than will fit in the headlight buckets of the body. A 2-3" bubble would give me the space I need for the projectors.
I'm pretty sure it's the same story with my wife's '74 MBZ 230.4, but I haven't checked closely... |
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bluebus86
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Use great care with the heat gun in heating up the lamp house. you MUST apply the heat evenly, else you will get localized expansion of the glass, and it will crack. (happened to me) so be sure to evenly heat up the lense, else you will destroy it.
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vanonimous
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2013
Posts: 362
Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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| tristessa wrote: |
| vanonimous wrote: |
| Wait till you see my million dollar vacuum forming technology you'll be laughing hard. |
Any interest in using that fancy high-tech setup to make bubbles for 7" H4's in place of the original glass? |
I don't know let me ask my vacuum cleaner...
Making bubbly covers for 7" rounds wouldn't be hard you are just making a mirror image of the bucket. Although I am not sure how I would cut a circle in acrylic. Straight lines are cut with a razor and then broken off. Hot wire cuter probably although I haven't tried that method.
More pictures on the way.
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vanonimous
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Joined: October 19, 2013
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vanonimous
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Joined: October 19, 2013
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Location: Burien, Center of the Universe
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| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:36 am Post subject: |
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Haven't figured how to seal the last place. Need something like the rubber boot behind the turn signal but smaller. For now sealed it with rubber tape.
Headlight assembly starting to take shape.
Testing the lights in the garage. Ta-da...
Next time we'll set beam and check the performance!
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
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Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:10 am Post subject: |
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Try some self fusing silicone tape like Rescue Tape to seal everything up on the back side of the housing. Shouldn't have any problems with the temps and doesn't leave a sticky mess, since it only fuses to itself.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
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IdahoDoug
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Location: N. Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:21 am Post subject: |
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Nice - correct way to upgrade by using full assemblies and factory reflectors only for mounts. Look forward to results. So the LED at vehicle center - a DRL strategy? I was thinking of similar on a couple classics I own. How's that for brightness in daytime, beam, etc? Source?
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svenakela
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Location: Ekerö
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| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:56 am Post subject: |
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I can't really decide if I like it or not, but sure it's an upgrade and I actually think the grill all of a sudden looks modern. Sort of.
Is there any space left behind the reflector? If the lens could be moved further back, the front "glass" could be made more flat? I think it would be looking more natural then. And awesome.
Unfortunately it's not a doer in the EU. Only vehicles with factory installed automatic light height adjustment are allowed to have projectors. Of course you can make some and don't give a thing about it. In my area the donuts are like eagles on home made HID conversions. Easy target for a fine I guess... |
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