/New-to-Me Engine, what's missing

[Goach2]

Also, in addition to my previous post, a question:

With this setup, should the fuel pump shut-off when pressure is reached? Or run on and on?

Thx!

[OB Bus]

[Goach2]

Ok, so I'm working through the AFC-FI-Troubleshooting doc and have a few questions. The fuel testing gauge I have is too old, I will have to get a different one. There is pressure though when I open the port between the left injectors. Anyway, all the voltages seem to be correct, with 12v at the injectors, and pulsing between the two at 3-5v(ish). Although the reading between the injector points themselves is 4.5-5.5 ohms, which is 2 ohms more than the manual says they should be. Could this indicate an issue with the injectors?

When I jumper the 36/39 pins on the AFM plus the 17/32 and 14/16 ECU pins, I get no action from the injectors at all, even though the voltages at the wires seem to be correct. Could it be that both injectors are bad/clogged? Anyway to try and do a quick clean on them to see if they'll spray?

Or is this wait for a new gauge territory?

Thanks!

[jtauxe]

[Goach2]

So checked voltages at the injector last night. Both seem to jump around on my digital meter. Not sure if the meter just can't keep up, but it seemed to average around 3.5v on both sides (at least that was the number most seen). I pulled the left side injectors and they were not spraying. I will work through the troubleshooter, checking all wire connections and voltages and we'll go from there. There's pressure in the fuel line, just not sure how much yet.

[Goach2]

Ok, I believe that is what I'm getting, but I will test again and then pull the injectors. When you refer to shorting the coil, is that just from #1 to #15? Or should I pull the dist wire from the coil as well?

[Wildthings]

[Goach2]

One side intermittent and the other staying at 12v? Ok, I believe they were both moving about when starting, but I will confirm that again. If it is the case, does it indicate something is wired incorrectly?

[Wildthings]

[Goach2]

Thanks Wildthings, I will try that. One other thing that I noticed was I am getting 12v on both connections of the injector wires, when compared to ground. Shouldn't it be one side only?

[Wildthings]

The vacuum lines aren't apt to keep an engine from starting as there is very little vacuum until after the engine starts.

Your oil leak could be a failed oil pressure switch, not a very dependable part.

The AFM should trigger the fuel pump relay whenever the flap is opened by incoming air. The fuel pump relay is also activated whenever the engine is being cranked.

Pull the injectors from the left bank and see if they spray when you crank the engine. Short out the coil wire when doing this.

[Goach2]

How important is the vacuum line from the dist to the fuel regulator, etc? My engine was already missing one and I've been working my way through to try and get it running. I have a working fuel pump and spark. I believe the voltage is right on the injectors, but I still have to verify they're not plugged up somehow. I was thinking that perhaps these vac lines are more important than they seem?

Also, I've changed the oil, as the strainer was loose and it was basically empty. Now I have a leak somewhere under the driver's-side tin and it's leaking onto the exhaust/heater box on that side. Possibly coming from the heads?

Finally, while I'm waiting for an AFM, I put a jumper across the two last pins and the fuel pump kicks in. Can it potentially run without the AFM? Or do I need to jumper it while starting?

[Randy in Maine]

I was wrong. It goes to the neg or "1" side of the coil.

Also go over here to Vintage Bus and put the wiring schematic on a flash drive and take it down to your local print place and have them print it up big and maybe even laminate it. Cheap money well spent. It has the westy wiring diagram also. You want to be able to trace the wire to the wiring track. This will save you countless hours.

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/

Also handy to have would be a good pair of open barrel crimpers and some good terminals. Go here and continue reading. I wish I had bought mine 30 years ago.

http://www.xj4ever.com/crimping%20my%20style.pdf

[Goach2]

Randy,

Just reading over this thread and you mentioned that:

"There should be a tan wire on the engine wiring harness that reaches from the + side of the coil to the ECU. That sends the ECU the 'fire signal" from the points to the FI and tells it when to squirt gas mixture to all of the cylinders at once. "

Everything else I've read says that the tan wire to the ECU is on the negative side of the coil.

Can you confirm?

[Goach2]

Found the little bugger:

This was tested back to the ECM pin 1, so that's one issue down...

Just Us Buses - yes, clearly someone when picking on this engine before I got to it. I can turn it over with the starter, but I just dropped the oil strainer out as it was not even finger tight. I need to change the oil (since there's not much left anyway) and filter.

The fused coil wire is cut really short, in the fuse body. I may have to either replace with a more modern fuse, or try and cut some of the plastic back so that I can get at the end of the wire.

Thanks for all the help so far!

[surfbus23]

[Just us buses]

Welcome to The Samba! A few things trouble me. I wonder why so much was cannibalized from this engine. Have you tried turning it over with a wrench? You might fog or oil the cylinders first if not. If you can spin it by starter, you might try a compression check. Those cylinders are probably dry. Are the spark plugs still in? I would want to drop it and disassemble to check for mouse nests under the tin. Take notes and pictures as you go for ease of assembly. Definitely get a Bentley and or Muir "idiot" book for guidance. Good luck!
_________________
It doesn't matter where you start, it all comes together; it all falls apart.

[Goach2]

Thanks Randy, in respect to the fused connection on the driver's side; this link:

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=11660&start=15

says it's "Double Relay, Black from terminal 86c to the in-line fuse, which then splits to the back-up lights and terminal 15 (+ve) on the coil"

The long wire appears to go to the lights. Would it be correct then to assume this cut wire is for the coil?

Thanks for the link, reading through it now...

[Randy in Maine]

The double relay is the black plastic relay on the left side of the firewall with the 2 wiring harnesses attached in this picture. The silver thing above it also mounte don the firewall is the series resisters for the FI injectors.

The round thing on the fire wall is the decel valve. It helps keep the engine from backfiring as you go down a hill with your foot off the gas. It basically shuts off the gas via a vacuum when it is not needed. Here is sort of what it looks like when it is all hooked up correctly.

The missing thing that you only have the bracket for on the firewall is for the charcoal cansiter for gas vapors.

This black fused connection on the left side of the engine one is for the back up lights...

If this brown & brown crimp connections are over by the right side of the engine bay, it was for a high altitude gizmo that we did not get on this side of the pond, as we just have the wiring. Don't worry about this one. Keep in mind that all grounds on a bus are either brown wires or bare flat woven wires.

There should be a tan wire on the engine wiring harness that reaches from the + side of the coil to the ECU. That sends the ECU the 'fire signal" from the points to the FI and tells it when to squirt gas mixture to all of the cylinders at once.

Go over here and start reading up......You are not the first to be in this spot and you won't be the last.

http://www.ratwell.com/

[Goach2]

Ok, more specific questions here:

First I found a cut wire tucked in this ?fuse? holder. From what I've read, this is for the double relay and it goes to +pos on the coil. Correct?

Next these three wires, black one is for fan (which is missing) and goes to pos+ on coil. Blue-black one goes to the oil pressure sensor and this green/tan or green/grey one is for something possibly obsolete that I can ignore. Correct?

Finally, I'm trying to find the 'tan' one that goes to the ECM. There is one tube with two wires that comes from the ECM wire, but they're short and don't reach that far. Are these supposed to plug into something else and then another wire would go from that to the coil?

Sorry, I hope that's not too much for one post, but I didn't want to lose those braincells....