PDSIT Project

[PumaVW79]

Cross reference part numbers

FRAM CA3130
BOSCH 0 986 B02 011
MANN-FILTER C1522
MAHLE FILTER LX904
VW 401 296 194
CHEVROLET 9307840
FLEETGUARD AF25205
DONALDSON P 53 2032
MOTORCRAFT BFA107
DELPHI EFA624
PUMA 401296194
TECFIL AR6194
ACDelco 01 EFA 009 ?
ACDelco 01EFA624 ?
WIX FILTERS 42419 ?

?= not checked

Edit to update

[Pruneman99]

Thx Puma, I'll print that out, and see if my FLAPS can order something. I'm sure they can match at least one of those cross reference numbers.

[Randall]

[Pruneman99]

Back from Pomona swap meet. Grabbed a few more distributors including two Garbe Lahmeyer units. I got an "A" version, and a "B" version that has the spring to adjust the curve. The one with the spring to adjust the curve seems interesting because when I swap out the vents it could give me some adjustment to have the advance come in sooner.

Anyway what I can't find is the specifications for the GL distributor. I did find posts from tsab where he said how much advance was supplied, but not what the vacuum range is. Does anyone know or have a link?

These also seem nice as they are iron bodies which I like, and I think look better. Anyone have an opinion if the adjustable GL might be a good unit to run with the PDSITs? I know the only way to find out is to run/map it, but I want to rebuild the distributors in the order in which has the best chance of success.

In other note, I only saw one 010, and the guy wanted 250 bucks in working, unrestored condition. IDK how Glenn finds cores.

I did put my hands on one of the Kulteck? New cast iron 010/009 clones. What a piece of garbage lol.

[Pruneman99]

Small update

Got my cheapo Chinese push-push linkage in the mail. It looks like it will work. I'll just have to shorten the rods a bit, but it's no problem as they have threads on each end about 1 1/2" so I can cut some off and not worry about finding a left hand tap.

Got the 311 905 205F distributor rebuilt and ready to go. I think it will be the best match for what I'm doing so it got rebuilt first.

Halfway through restoration on a ZV/PAU 4 R 5. The vacuum signal needed is less on this one and might work with the bigger vents I want to run. I'm actually hoping it will be the winner, because the body turned out awesome, and I like the look of the big cap iron body distributors.

I'll rebuild the GL "B" distributor next because it has an adjustable vacuum advance plate and might give me some wiggle room if the other two don't seem to work well. It's iron bodied too, and has a cool "old" look. Might be tricky, the vacuum advance hooks up under the advance plate but I'll see how it works later.

[Pruneman99]

Got my linkage set up last night. Actually it works pretty well for the cost as long as you set the jam nut the right way The driver side rod will need to be shortened maybe 3/8" but that's no biggie.

Also found some studs for the intakes at a local hardware store. M8 x 1.25 x 36?. The one intake is tapped for a balance tube, the other still needs tapped.

Had to grind a bit on the new arms so I could just put them over the original ones. Had to enlarge the hole that the shaft goes through because it was too small. About 10 minutes with some needle files cured that.

[Pruneman99]

Here's a shot of the linkage pivot. Clears a Pierburg pump and big cap distributor.

[Pruneman99]

Next I started to mock up return springs. It was easy to put springs on the old throttle arms connected to the cylinder tin screw. I didn't like it though because it would put unnecessary pressure on the throttle plates bushings, so I came up with this:

A simple spring from one arm to the other. Really simple, and works well. I'll probably add one more spring on the other side of the central pivot for redundancy. Don't want a broken spring to cause a stuck WOT situation.

[PumaVW79]

Looks neat. I only have a qualm about the spring arrangement because it is rubbing the column, therefore, making unnecessary load and friction on both surfaces.

The solution of the CSP is the style of spring in the pic, which contours the column horizontally, with the ends bent over the pivoting table and base to hold the spring into position. Easy to repurpose from another one, five or six coils or even more should work fine for the thinner column.

Don't know if it is easy to accommodate on that particular linkage, however...

P.S. I still prefer a linear spring over the CSP style, because it is easier to set up the proper tension.

[Pruneman99]

The center column actually pivots where the spring touches so there is actually minimal rubbing really. The spring like you posted actually would be better, but would require me to fab up a base plate. It could be done for sure for this linkage. I might do that later if I really like this setup.

In other news, I went to two different FLAPS and no dice on the air filters. The only number that even came up in their systems was that last Wix filter, but it wasn't correct. It was tall and narrow, not short and fat. I'll stop by Relic VW and see if they can get me some.

There is a problem with the filter housing. The captive nut that holds the filter bases on bottoms out on the mounting boss and doesn't allow them to sit down all the way. I'll have to remove the stud and cut the boss down. I'll post a picture later today so anyone that cares can see what I'm talking about.

[Pruneman99]

I'm working on getting the Brasilia air filter pods mounted to the carbs. The captive nut on the filter base plate is the right size, but it bottoms out on the mounting boss on the carb not letting it seat all the way down.

If you look carefully, you can see where the nut contacts the boss that holds the mounting stud.

Does anyone know if this stud is pressed in? I can't tell if there are other threads in the boss and I don't know if pulling it out by double nutting the stud will damage the boss. I need to trim the boss down so the base plate can screw down further. Not by much, maybe a fat 1/8" or so.

I'll try to pull one from another carb I'm not using first, but I don't want to damage my "extras" either.

[67rustavenger]

What if you trimmed the nut? That way you don't risk damage to the carb boss.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[PumaVW79]

[FreeBug]

Yikes! If that nut comes loose...

I would seriously consider another option- can dou drill through the filter top and come with a long (handmade) threaded bit from outside the filter, like stock?

Either way, make sure you have enough threads, and use a nylon locking nut, and locktite! Otherwise that is a disaster waiting to happen...

And can't you bend the tab to get the pre-load you need to keep the filter seated on the rubber seal?

I don't like it, the whole thing looks like it will impede flow, as well as put your engine at risk...

[Pruneman99]

[Pruneman99]

[Pruneman99]

[FreeBug]

Ok, I didn't understand that the nut was captive... Thanks!

[Pruneman99]

Small update. Got derailed rebuilding my brakes, well because stopping is important.. had a shoe jump out of my rear frozen star ajusters. Had to be fixed with the little VW time I have. All fixed up now and stopping great.

Finalized the return spring arrangement.

No throttle

Full throttle

Snaps back nice with no binding. I'll lube the shaft where the springs contact.

[Pruneman99]

I decided to use this setup on my 1745cc build. Actually, the 1745cc build came about after I got this all figured out (with a lot of input from the contributors to this thread). I might be nuts to build an engine just to use this setup. Probably am but that's the fun

Anyway, I'm trying to figure out what cam and heads to use in my other thread, and have had some good input. I think what would really help is to know how much these carbs can flow..

Anyone have this info?

Oh and they are PDSIT 32s from a '66 type III for those that don't want to look through this entire thread.