1970 Fasterback build

[chicagovw]

Here are a couple of photos of my 1970 Fastback. I bought this car a couple of years ago, but have done very little to it. I always wanted a Type 3, as my dad had a '67 Fastback that he purchased in 1968 and sold in 1971-72. I had not been looking or planning for one at the time, but it came up so I moved on it. I am wrapping up a couple of projects and hope to really get started on it next year.

When I bought the car it was not running. After locating a rebuilt fuel pump on the samba, the car now starts and drives. Sometimes. It has an intermittent won't start issue-it will crank and not start, and then I return to the car a few days later and it starts up with half a crank. I managed to move it form storage to my new place, about two miles away, and thankfully it did that without an issue. So that is something I will need to figure out, although I have a feeling it is in the fuel injection wiring harness.

While I do not plan on doing any real work to it next year, I do want to be able to drive it so I need to figure that out, and also a sticky starter problem. After the engine starts up and is running, the starter continues to engage. I am not sure if that is an ignition switch or starter issue. A previous owner installed a replacement aftermarket ignition switch at some point so I will have to do some investigation.

My plans are more of a preservation than full on restoration as this is a very solid, original car with what looks like one respray at some point. I need to find some parts, such as front and rear trunk liners in the original material-my ideal find would be NOS or excellent used so I can keep the car with as many genuine VW parts as possible. I was told my car had a/c at one point, and so I will be looking for a good used or NOS system as well as some factory and dealer options and accessories. My main goal is of course to get this thing so it is completely reliable. I have had many Beetles, and Buses, but this is my first type 3. It is an interesting car, but feel that VW did miss some opportunities to make an even neater, more useful car. This body style just about cries out for a hatchback and folding rear seat, of which it has neither, and I wonder why VW kept the Beetles wheelbase, which makes the rear seat legroom tighter than it should have been. But it is a cool car, and I am looking forward to getting the starting/running reliable issues sorted in the short term, and a major preservation effort done in the long term. Any advice for a new Type 3 guy?

[Donnie strickland]

Have you read the Type 3 FAQ at the top of the forum?

I can almost guarantee your running problem is not in the FI harness. The hacked ignition switch is a red flag.

[chicagovw]

I will check out the FAQ, thanks!

I know the Squareback, but I am just saying that it would have been nice to not have to go with a station wagon body style to get some extra utility-think Saab 900.

I agree with running modern components. I have 3 VW Buses that are part of the service fleet in my plumbing business, and we run modern a/c systems on all of them. Two of them use systems from I.C.E. and one is from Gilmore Enterprises. Of the two, the Gilmore was less expensive but the I.C.E. outperforms it considerably and also looks much more integrated. Gilmore also makes a Type 3 system, but it looks pretty cobbled together IMO. I would ideally use the original VW approved underdash venting, powered by modern components. That's a bit down the road, of course, as for the time being I just want to get it so I can drive it around without needing a rope attached to the back bumper to get me back home : ).

[Donnie strickland]

Yes, that's the way to go, using the under dash unit with modern stuff.

By way of comparison, here's a Gilmore unit just installed in the Squareback of Samba member trythis:

Here's his thread, which will give you more info about installation:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=80

The issue with the Gilmore unit is that it's made to fit the dash of the 69 and earlier cars, so it needs some modifications to fit the later cars.
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[chicagovw]

That's not a bad looking unit. I thought theirs was more a hodgepodge of vents when it came to type 3s? Looks like I was incorrect or they came up with a different version compared to what I recall. Still not as nice as the old dealer installed units, but it probably works better.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/andre/71ac/page06.jpg

I will post a pic of the ignition switch. I would not call it hacked exactly, but it is aftermarket for sure, although it appears that it was made for a Type 3

[chicagovw]

So here is the key and ignition switch my car has. It has a VW stamp on the key, but isn't the same as the door keys and the ignition has markings on it that I am quite confident are not original to a German made VW. I also verified my car did have a/c judging by the fitting under the dash.

[Donnie strickland]

Yes, your lock cylinder has been replaced, but the electrical portion of the switch is what we're interested in.

What happens when these switches get worn, is that the key can actually turn too far when you're trying to start the car, and the starter is turning but the ignition isn't getting powered. My switch did this. Try starting the car by turning the key just until the starter begins turning, and hold it there so it doesn't go too far (you can tell if it's going too far because the oil and generator lights will both go out while cranking). Burnt contacts in the switch can cause the same problem, as can a crappy aftermarket switch. But these are separate from the lock cylinder.
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[chicagovw]

Thank you for that advice! I started the car up last night, and noticed that once it starts cranking, it doesn't stop, even after the engine is running and even if I turn the key off. So I think the electrical portion should be replaced, as well as the key portion. I am going to see if I can find an original and have it keyed to match the doors. The wiring going to the switch looks hacked and spliced so running new wires is probably a good idea as well.

[savannanotch]

Chicago , It's a solid looking Fasty. I admire your desire to use NOS parts or original used stuff. It is truly a lofty goal . Don't get me wrong i'm not trying to talk you out of it but expect to pay a hefty premium for those type of parts if you can find them .
So if your budget is flexible great ,however you may want to start looking for a parts car to sacrifice for the original parts you need . You may be many dollars and months ahead in the end .THe Fasty's are getting more and more popular because they were the red-headed stepchild of the type 3 world until the last few years. The price and availability of Variant and Notchback cars and parts has gone to such levels that many enthusiasts have been priced out of the market . Hence the increased interest in the Fast Back . So if you find parts don't wait to long to grab them because its a fast moving market for some of this stuff.

[ronbug73]

delete

[Donnie strickland]

In addition, all of your fuel line should be replaced, front to back. It'll take about 25 feet of 5/16 fuel injection hose, and it's best to use fuel injection-style clamps as well, but you probably already know all of that from experience with your Buses.

Also, the fuel tank vent tubing system should be replaced so you don't get water and dirt in the fuel tank. Jim Adney sells a kit for this, and you can reach him at [email protected]

Here's a writeup I did on installing that system:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657922&sid=647deda7faf7b8b84acea9094a324086
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[heimlich]

Where's that from? The ignition is clearly not in English.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[ataraxia]

[chicagovw]

Thank you for the advice. I am looking forward to this project! I do realize sourcing NOS or good used parts will be challenging. Very few Type 3s show up at the shows in my area and there are very few parts for them at the swap meets compared to the Type 1 and 2. Which is surprising in a way, as over 2.5 million Type 3s were made in total. I would not be against a parts car, but the issue is in finding one in the area. I am hoping to preserve as many of the original parts as possible, with a lot of cleaning and painting. The first things to do is to replace that ignition switch-both parts-and a few missing items from the engine ( I will post a pic shortly). I have only driven it about two miles in total, and it seems to run ok, but it did sit for an untold amount of years, so I am sure there will be plenty of things that need doing.

[chicagovw]

Here is the engine. I see there is a cover over the fan shroud (is this the correct term for a Type 3?) that is missing and it looks like the ignition wires are routed incorrectly on the right side (perhaps someone used a set from a type 1?). Comments/suggestions/finger pointing to wards missing or incorrect items are welcome! Should I be able to see the ground like I am ? My bug and buses all have sealed engine compartments.

[KTPhil]

Looks like the fan shroud had holes for an A/C compressor., and yes, the generator needs a cover. You see the ground in any Type 3, especially the later models. That's normal, and is the reason for the according bellows connecting the fan shroud to the body-- to get clean air for engine cooling and the air cleaner intake.

Your AAR is plugged instead of having a hose leading to the air cleaner. Your oil breather hose is routed wrong, too-- should go to the air cleaner nipple just in front of the flap.

These are inexpensive but important things to set straight.

[chicagovw]

Thanks, KT- My car was an a/c equipped car, something I plan to make it once again. I appreciate the advice on the bellows as well as the routing of hoses, etc. The car is in very solid, original condition so at some point I will have to make the decision of taking everything apart for a restoration or a more conservative preservation. I have seen many restored cars and they just never seem to work as well as a really well done preservation-I have yet to drive a restored car that is as tight and nice as a low mileage, properly maintained original car.

[chicagovw]

Can anyone tell me what this wire is for? Gotta love all those previous owners who love to play electrician. I ordered the Bentley manual so I can trace this sort of thing down (along with a replacement ignition switch assembly, keyed to match the original door locks, from Gabriel).

[Donnie strickland]

68-70 wiring diagram:

And key:

Plus additional wiring:

Plus your fuses are mixed up. Fuses 8 and 12 should be red 16 amp fuses, the rest should be white (note, however, that since your car is an automatic, the backup light fuse is not in the engine compartment, but is in the fusebox, although this is not shown in the manual):

I dropped my fusebox down to see about that white wire with the black dots. It comes up from the rear of the car at the left doorjamb, and terminates in that plastic T1 connector. On the other end of the connector is a grey wire, which goes up into the big wire bundle under the dash. I couldn't see where it goes after that.

_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Bobnotch]

That might be for the key buzzer then (goes to the door's dome light switch).

And yes, almost every type 3 I've owned the PO thought they were an electrician, and knew more than the VW engineers.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120