help won't start

[slammed sickness]

so I bought a 78 bus yesterday and tryed to get it to start. the fuel pump wasn't working so hooked one up I have laying around seems to.be getting fuel at injectors. (I cracked the lines) but it won't start and for some reason I can't get the rotor to point to the number one cylinder. I've removed the dizzy and cranked it to tdc on cyl #1 but it always lined up at #2 how do I fix this? it only sputters and back fires I can't get it to start. any help is appreciated
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[slammed sickness]

I also suspect bad fuel which I'll be draining take and replacing tomorrow
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[timvw7476]

if this is a mystery bus that you've never see running, pull the right side
valve cover, turn the alternator pulley nut clock wise & watch the intake valve on
#1 cylinder close. This should have the #1 piston near TDC, look at
the rotor, which ever terminal post it is pointing at IS the #1 plug wire.
People err when dropping in the distributor drive dowel, so having the
rotor 'pointing' at what you believe should be the tower for #1 wire is a
common mistake.

[Wildthings]

The firing order is 1, 4, 3, 2 clockwise and the cylinder positions are

--Front--
--3---1--
--4---2--
--Rear--

All your wires may be out of position or just two of them. As mentioned when both valves on the #1 cylinder are closed at TDC then the rotor should be pointing to the #1 wire. The importance of checking the valves can not be over stated, without doing that you are just shooting in the dark.

[slammed sickness]

okay put new fuel it and she runs. is it a bad idea to get power from my coil for fuel pump?
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

[slammed sickness]

it's not getting power from there. is there a fuse or relay that controls the injectors?
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

[slammed sickness]

okay I didn't think the injectors were working but they are. I can get the bus to fire off for a few seconds if I pin the throttle. it's sputtering and spitting then dies. almost sounds like a misfire or something.
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

A cold engine will start off the Cold Start Valve and then die over a period of several seconds if the injectors don't fire or the fuel pump doesn't keep running. Cleaning the FI grounds under the 3-4 manifold runners is a good place to start.

[aerosurfer]

Fuel injection manual

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi_training_troubleshooting_manual.php
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[slammed sickness]

thanks for all the info. can you post a pic of manifold runners? I'm new to these 2.0s used to upright motors. I got it fired and half ass running long enough to get it up to our storage. I belive timing is off tho it's not 180 out. and fuel pump might not be pushing enough fuel. one of the main problems was a plastic/ rubber hose that runs length ways on top of the engine was unhooked. plugged it in and it fired
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[slammed sickness]

do you.know what this box is?no wires are hooked up to it in the bottom picture there's is a blue wire that I noticed was unhooked. does it go to that box? thanks
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[russwiththebus]

That's your voltage regulator. There should be a plug coming from the alternator, which goes in the bottom there. That blue wire you see connects to the blue wire on the plug and goes to your alternator light in the dash.

[slammed sickness]

okay that makes sense previous owner (guy I work with) replaced with a alternator From one of his other rigs and must not have needed it. he was driving it around when I was younger but its been off the road sense 09 so I'm just trying to go threw everything and get it going good
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[slammed sickness]

are 2.0 distributors the same as one for 1600s and such?
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

[slammed sickness]

I'm assuming the one I have in there will work being the motor started with it in there. I just didn't know if they had any significant differences. it had a dist. with vacuum advance and point's and thats what I replaced it with
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

There are four basic ACVW distributors: vacuum advance only, Single Vacuum Dual Advance, Dual Vacuum Dual Advance, and the notorious mechanical only 009 and its copies. Within each of these are many variations. In general the closer you can get to the dizzy that matches your fuel system the better the engine will perform.

I have a generic dual vacuum can on my Vanagon 2.1L WBXer with a 83 1/2 vintage Digijet FI system, which I bought on eBay that I have no idea what it was specced for and certainly isn't an exact match for my system, but it works way better than a blown out vacuum can did. I spent hours looking up the specs for the various new cans I could find on eBay and bought the can that seemed closest to the factory can.

[slammed sickness]

hey if it works it works right? haha yeah the one that was in the bus when I got it was burnt up (installed wrong power from cool to green wire) and we had on rebuilt one sitting in the shop so I put that one in
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*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *