Two Different 28PICT Carburetors

[Longmont1302]

Are there variations on the 28PICT theme? The back of the choke looks very different on these two:

I wasn't able to find a "28PICTs through the years" website. Thanks in advance for any resources you can share.

Scott

[BulliBill]

From memory, without looking it up, I believe the one on the right is the earliest version of the 28PICT and the one on the left is the later version... Someone will jump on here with much more detail...

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[nlorntson]

^^ I agree with Bill. the one on the right was used in 62 and the other I think roughly into 63.

left one is a 28PICT, right one is a 28PICT-1 starting in November 63.

[Longmont1302]

Thank you both for the feedback. Can either of you point me to a site or book that highlights the differences?

Scott

PS: Plus a big shout out to the Twin Cities, where I lived and played music for decades.

[Stocknazi]

[nlorntson]

Check out the literature on this site:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/looklisten_11/looklisten11_28pict_carburetor.pdf

[EverettB]

[Stocknazi]

[BarryL]

Early piston style choke vacuum-opener uses small diameter ceramic heating element with one rivet and later diaphragm style choke vacuum-opener uses large diameter ceramic heating element and 2 rivet contact. Some variations on element contact tab and rivets occur. I don't think there was a 12 volt small diameter ceramic element except maybe Porsche.

[EverettB]

[Longmont1302]

EverettB:

[nlorntson]

I've restored dozens of these 28PICT carbs. They are a fun, and easy little carb to do.

You'll need to fix that hole either replace the cover with a freeze plug or if it's a spare, maybe a little JB weld.

[BarryL]

Skip over any drivel you don't get:

[Longmont1302]

[Longmont1302]

Thanks, BarryL, for the tips.

[Longmont1302]

I am in the process of rebuilding my 28 PICT.

The gasket that came off the old needle valve (seen at left) seems it was made of some kind of pliable gasket material. As near as I can tell, the only gaskets that came with the Radke rebuild kit that will fit are brass, which seem a bit harder.

I was unsure whether to use the new brass or the old gasket. The Radke directions say to use the 1 mm gasket which doesn't seem helpful. I ended up using the new brass.

It looks like there's another brass gasket or washer, likely for the Main Jet Carrier.

I guess my question is this: are there parts in the rebuild kit I should skip over in favor of reusing the original parts? In general, it would seem like a good idea to replace gaskets, but what about the cool old Solex float? The studier diaphragm? The diaphragm spring?

Any suggestions welcome.

Scott

[nlorntson]

Use the old needle valve and seal if possible. The new valves seem to fail or be bad right out of the kit.

[Longmont1302]

[BarryL]

Not to contradict nlorntson as you want the most reliable/sealing valve but wash the new needle valve before you call it stuck. I like the 1mm copper seal, myself, but the fiber ones seal a smidge better although they crush.

The main jet/bowl drain plug usually have the red fiber washer (the tight fit one) but check for weeping after a few miles as some fiber washers are junk.

[Longmont1302]