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New engine build by ladies
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:30 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Pushrod tube problems.
Stock 1600 to long.
All forums suggest not to use adjustable..heat issues.
Ordered 40 hp pushrod tubes..

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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Pushrod tubes fit

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Forgot rtv...thank u Wayne.

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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Joannekay wrote:

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In this image, the tip of the adjuster is offset from the center of the valve, you can also see the shim between the rocker & the mount block. Remove the rocker shaft & put the shim on the outside so that the adjusters are as close to centered on the valve as possible.

I would also address the head stud that’s protruding so close to the intake rocker.

Final valve adjustment may not be done, but all of the adjusters should be closer to being level with each other. You may want to be sure that all of the pushrods are seated properly.
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Thank u tdctdi..
When I put extra shim on end...it’s firm.
But will reshim.
Also other concern..head studs to close to rocker arm assemble.
Will shorten stud.
Will also double check pushrod seated correctly..
Again thank you for your help.

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Rest day....good to have a break..
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:44 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
... so that the adjusters are as close to centered on the valve as possible.

I have always read to slightly offset the rocker arms on the valve tips to encourage valve rotation.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:31 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

scrivyscriv wrote:
TDCTDI wrote:
... so that the adjusters are as close to centered on the valve as possible.

I have always read to slightly offset the rocker arms on the valve tips to encourage valve rotation.


Key word being slightly. When a third of the adjustment screw hangs off the side of the valve tip, you will get an adjuster that is worn unevenly. This will cause failure of the adjuster & make it a real bitch to get a proper adjustment the next time the valves need to be adjusted.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:35 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Joannekay wrote:
Thank u tdctdi..
When I put extra shim on end...it’s firm.

Just move the shim between the rocker & the stand to the other side of the rocker arm. You definitely don’t want to add another if it’s causing binding.
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REDKAFER
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

I gotta say, while in the middle of building up my 1600 for the first* time, I see the photos of your shop and the work you do, and I get huge gobs of motivation to get my merde together and wrench like hell. Keep kicking ass, I love it.

* - First time with adult levels of care and patience. I've had the car for 15 years, and it took me 12 of those to get as serious and appreciative as you folks.
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 11:54 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Thank you redkafer for that lovely comment...
Still troubles tdctdi....
Shortened head studs

Rocker arm shaft & mounting blocks no room before spaces or shims.

Any ideas please.

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Wayne S. Johnson
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:04 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

When using all stock parts why do you need shims?
Could you have pushrods for another engine?
It does not look like there are enough threads left on the rocker studs.
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:06 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

I thought a spacer or shim is required on both sides rocker arm & mounting block..
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Wayne S. Johnson
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:07 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Joannekay wrote:
I thought a spacer or shim is required on both sides rocker arm & mounting block..


I don't think the factory used them, I don't know.
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:08 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Pushrods new for a 1600.
Rocker studs not touched..
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Greg Ward
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 2:48 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

They aren't stock parts which makes things more difficult, the rocker assemblies are bolt together solid shaft aftermarket ones not stock with clips, so the shaft itself and the blocks that hold it may be bigger in diameter too.
Stock setup has the 4 clips and shims with wavy washers in between, on your setup, you need to shim each rocker properly, the two inlet rockers have a massive gap, they should all end up roughly the same gap, and to achieve that you will probably need to buy a shim kit, unless your kit has enough different width shims to get it set up correctly. You should end up with shims of different widths on each side of each rocker, it is ok to have more than one shim per side, but not none.
The rockers should move nice and freely up and down without any binding, but you also don't want so much clearance that you can "clack" them side to side.

Also, hard to see exactly, but it appears those pushrods you have are steel or chromoly, definitely not stock, they are normally made longer for stroker engines, which would also explain the need for shims and messed up geometry from stock.
I never use steel or chromoly pushrods in any engine after finding out what they do, you need to get a set of standard length aluminium pushrods just as the factory intended for a stock build.

I think if you put stock pushrods in it, shim your rockers side to side properly, and disappear all shims underneath the rocker stands you will be back close to where it all should be.
Proper rocker arm geometry needs to be checked at 1/2 total valve lift, your adjuster screw should show a nice straight shot through the valve stem at half lift, that is what you are aiming to get closest to.

Cheers,

Greg
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 3:40 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Thank you Greg for your reply.

The pushrods are chromoly stock..
Will purchase aluminium.
Again..thank you
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Careful, thoughtful assembly in such nice, clean conditions. Keep it up, engine's going to be a real winner.
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Wayne S. Johnson
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

I see a large gap between the rocker and the mounting block in one of the pics, maybe .1".
The rockers should not move side to side, more than a few thousands of an inch. Not sure what is correct maximum, check requirements.
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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 3:05 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Will sand rocker mount...

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Joannekay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:12 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

Check performance stock rockers

Sand mounting block information


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Greg Ward
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 11:45 pm    Post subject: Re: New engine build by ladies Reply with quote

No Problem,

I've never tried buying "new stock length" aluminium pushrods, even if they exist, I have a decent stash of old perfectly useable german AL pushrods.

If you want me to clean you up a set, then PM me and I'll be happy to help.

The reason you don't want steel/chromoly pushrods is that they won't expand when your engine gets hot like VW intended.
Magnesium case, Cast iron cylinders and Aluminium heads, the reason for AL pushrods is because they expand at a closer rate to the heads and keep your valve lash as close as possible to cam specs.

I ran Chromoly pushrods back in 1994 in a Hillclimb race, the cam was specced to .008" and .010", inlet lash and exhaust.

I lost all power from my race engine half track when it got hotter, checking the lash with steel pushrods, it was .024" on most of them, so a sparkplug gap was my lash setting.
Never again.
Steel/Chromoly pushrods are a 12sec or less dragrace only item...never to be used seriously on a street engine.

Cheers,

Greg
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