Changing out Alternator and Starter on 88 Vanagon

[OnTheVanagain]

up until 4 month ago I've never done any mechanic work. So far by lurking this forum I was able to figure out how to change the

-radiator
-fuel lines
-fuel injectors
-temp ii
-temp sender
-clean grounds
-tune up
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-camper stuff fridge, propane tank and faucet
-ignition switch
-clean engine bay
-house battery

But am hesitant to change to alternator and starter. I want to start by changing the alternator if someone could please give me a step by step. My local mechanic wants to charge me $400 for labor. I have the gowesty started and Bosch rebuilt alternator. These parts have never been changed my van is close to hitting 150k miles I am doing this for long term preventive maintenance. I am getting ready to take a 3000+ road trip. I just came back from a 3200 mile road trip with the only hiccup being bad starting and low rpm idle when low on fuel.

[shagginwagon83]

From what I heard starter is easy. Alternator is pretty easy, unless you want to take off mounting bracket. Just make sure to unhook battery while swapping. Have you reinforced your alternator? If not, you should consider it. The way it mounts to block is bad design and could break. GoWesty sells a bracket but if you have power steering then you maybe able to make something like this.

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Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[OnTheVanagain]

[shagginwagon83]

Sounds like you're good to go. I am new to working on vehicles also. Recently I have 'jumped into' things because I think its good to learn how to replace something in the garage vs on the road.

I did the alternator wire kit from GoWesty and it was not bad. How was the radiator and propane tank?
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Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[Steve M.]

STEP 1.) DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST.

Be aware that if you do the brace across the bottom of the Alternator you may need a longer bolt.

Other then that it is pretty straight forward. If you have done the other stuff you should have no problem doing this.

Tension the belt properly and make sure the pulleys are in-line with each other.
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[OnTheVanagain]

Disconnecting the battery was the one thing I had the common sense to do. Changing the radiator and propane tank where both pretty easy because I was able to find very specific instructions. I haven't been able to find specific instructions in changing either the alternator nor starter.

[Steve M.]

[Wildthings]

If nothing is wrong with your mounting then changing out the alternator is a 15 minute job, there may be no vehicle out there with an easier to change alternator. If your mechanic wanted to charge you $400 I would assume he thought that upgrading of the mounting was called for.

The starter isn't a big deal either, just drive the right tirese up on a curb, throw some cardboard down to lay on and go at it.

For either job you need to remove the ground wire from the battery before you put a wrench on anything else. The positive cable does not need to be removed.

Doing preventive maintenance can seem like a good idea, but many rebuilt (and even new) parts may fail on you right out of the box or soon afterwards, so you may actually be increasing your risk of having a mechanical failure over the next several thousand miles.

FWIW, the alternator in the below picture is a Delcotron. I lost the original Bosch outside of Ely, Nevada on a Saturday night and the local Flaps couldn't get me a Bosch replacement before their parts shipment came in the following Wednesday. A couple of hours of head scratching and some custom work got me on the road with a Delco mounted up before noon on Sunday. A Delco can be had at most any FLAPS or wrecking yard out there, and possibly at a remote ranch or mining camp. That is pretty much my solution to the possibility of being stuck on the road because of the loss of an alternator.

[Steve M.]

The bolt sizes are 13mm on the Alternator and 17mm or 19mm on the Starter mount bolts.

On the starter you'll need a 6"+ extension for the ratchet and socket as the top side bolt you have to go over the top of the solonoid.
A box end on the nut for the topside where the engine/transmission come together.
That's about it except for safety glasses as crap can fall in your eyes while under there.
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[OnTheVanagain]

[shagginwagon83]

Oh no dawg, that doesn't come off. Your new alternator should have one on it.

Edit: i don't know what I am doing
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[MarkWard]

It is probably easier to remove the pulley once you have the alternator removed and in front of you. I am spoiled and use an impact gun for removing that nut easily. I have not used your "allen wrench" method before.

Nothing unique about the threads. Turn nut counter clockwise loosens it. Might be worth it to run both alternators by a shop that can buzz the nut off and on for you.

edit, the Bosch alternators we get shipped to us often require swapping the pulley, shims and blade. They are not included.
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[Ahwahnee]

Your starter bolts may also require an 8mm Allen wrench (mine did). If you do not have one, a 5/16" Allen wrench will probably suit.

They're right, the alternator is easy - I usually end up doing it in an AutoZone parking lot. If you are installing a new alternator you may need to move the pulley over to it. The easiest way to undo that pullet nut is with an impact wrench. Maybe you can borrow one. Or some auto parts stores have one and might help you out.

Is it a lefthand thread? I really do not recall.

[OnTheVanagain]

oops I thought I had to remove the remove the pulley and fan while it was mounted.

[Wildthings]

Yes the pulley removal is best done with an impact wrench, an autoparts or garage may well swap the pulley for free assuming it needs to be done. A good whale against a box end wrench with a hammer may break the nut loose as well.

[OnTheVanagain]

Still haven't found the power in me to remove the pulley. If I can't I'll just take it to autozone.
As of now I'm trying to remove the power steering pump.

[OnTheVanagain]

I managed to remove the pulley. What the 27 plus or minus 7 pounds mean. I'm trying to set the torque. Thanks again for all the help.

[Ahwahnee]

I have always just smacked it with the impact wrench on a low to mid setting.

But if you have found a torque spec then you may be able to secure the fan in some fashion and put a torque wrench on it. If you do not have a torque wrench - well 27 ft pounds isn't much - sounds like you just tighten it 'pretty good'.

[Wildthings]

[kamzcab86]

From 1985 onward, the alt pulley nut is torqued to 37 ft. lbs. ± 7.

Do not remove/install with alternator pulley parallel to ground, or damage can occur (according to Bosch).

For the starter, I found removing the air flow meter and boot made accessing the long bolt easier. A ratcheting box wrench also made it easier... so much so, that I bought a complete set for both van and garage.
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1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
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