Spring pack stuck in ball joint trailing arm – suggestions?

[Evil_Fiz]

I have disassembled my front beam, and with the help of Samba member LowCashJohn and his TIG welder, I was able to remove a stripped grub screw from the Passenger side lower trailing arm. Here’s where things get interesting. Removal of the lower spring pack and trailing arm as a unit involved a lot of blue words and a rubber mallet. Once out, I cleaned the springs as a cluster because it would not come out of the trailing arm (YES, I removed the grub screw. It was the one that went sideways on me.) The spring leaves were crusty and probably have some corrosion due to water infiltration. I do not own a vice (it’s on the to-do list) but holding the spring pack with a grippy rubber glove and beating on the trailing arm with the rubber mallet had no effect. Like the spring pack, I am stuck.

I have read suggestions involving penetrating oil and heat.
- What should I use for a penetrant?
- If heat is safe to use on the trailing arm, will a propane or MAP Gas torch suffice?
- Any other tips or tricks to try?

Here are some pictures of the trailing arms. I am looking for recommendations on how to recondition the discolored ones if necessary. I have not cleaned the beam yet so I can’t speak to the condition of the bearings and inner Micarta bushings but there were no red flags during disassembly.

Driver Upper

Driver Lower

Passenger Upper

Passenger lower

Lower Spring – Driver end

Lower Spring – Middle

Lower Spring – Passenger end

Thanks
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[KGCoupe]

As far as penetrating oil go, I've had very good success with both PB Blaster and Kroil.

I've also read that many people swear by using a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone, although a Google search indicates that there may be some difficulty in getting those two fluids to mix.

For heat, I've had great success with a Bernz-O-Matic TS8000 Max Heat Torch burning Map-Pro gas.
On the rare occasion where that didn't supply enough heat, I've always been able to break it loose by resorting to a Bernz-O-Matic WK55000X Oxygen/Map-Pro Brazing Torch.



Oh, and be sure to keep a fire extinguisher on hand nearby just in case the penetrating oil or grease begins to burn out of control. ( )

[70 140]

It shouldn't need heat. I'd put a few broccoli elastics on the leaves and drop the entire thing, leaf first into a suitable length of steel pipe. Pry the dust caps out - if they are still in place covering the ends of the leaves. Stand the pipe up, use a punch and big hammer and drive the leaves out (down into the pipe).

[rcooled]

[Glenn]

[70 140]

[xzener]

I was thinking a chip clip would do it... But a broccoli elastic, genius!
_________________
My 70 beetle was totaled Now to build the Ghia I always wanted. Rest in peace Ruby, I will miss you. Hello <insert Ghia name here>!

[70 140]

[didget69]

[Evil_Fiz]

[Evil_Fiz]

Does anyone have any advise on how to recondition the journals on the trailing arms? I have searched here and on STF with no luck.

Thanks,
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[Starbucket]