tips before pulling transmission from 2002

[markcm2]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Is it not possible to remove the AC compressor and leave the system intact on the car? Even if so, I'll bet it's tight and really complicates a drivetrain removal.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[markcm2]

[soissisc]

[markcm2]

The transmission is off and will be headed to the rebuild shop tomorrow.

Here's a few questions to keep us moving:

Any recommendations for stabilizing the engine to work on it, should we just get a traditional engine stand?

Looking for tips on removing the harmonic balancer and flex plate and the seals behind them. how to keep the crank from rotating?

Where do we find torque spec's when we put this all back together?

Are there seals on the oil cooler that we should replace while in here?

Thanks and here's tonight's shot with the tranny off.

[xavior12]

Wow. First off, why didn't you remove the intake manifold. That would have given you more room to pull the whole thing w/o discharging the AC and not be so wonky. And your gonna want to do the VC gasket and spark plugs tube seals but no big deal.
I'd remove the stock cooler and add an external cooler, right in front of the AC condenser. and yes the kit comes with new seals.

The rear main seal is easy to do. Hold the Harmonic balancer with a home made tool if you have to, loosen the bolts. Do the front main seal after you put it back in the van?

You can use jack stands to shore up the engine.

[markcm2]

[Abscate]

I'm showing

New bolts required

60 Nm initial torque
90 angle tightening, can be done in stages

Torque should be done diagonally of course, standard practice
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.ssS!

[xavior12]

If your gonna do the chains and all like you said. You might want to get those items I said before.
Get both the intermediate shaft sprockets and its bolt.
Don't forget the coolant pipe to Tstat manifold, the "Crack Pipe".
Check and clean the screen at the back of the cam gear phaser unit.
Get some good quality, gas and oil resistant sealant for all the covers you gonna pull of. Scrape it all clean and then clean it again w/gray scotch pad.
Your gonna need the tools that are used to set up the cams.
Go to TectonicsTuning.com for those tools. It will save time with those tools.

[markcm2]

[soissisc]

[markcm2]

Good stuff, thanks Mark.

[markcm2]

We will remove the intake tonight and open up the timing covers. I've been reading some threads and taking notes... This is a late 2002 which I hear don't typically need intermediate gears replaced, I suppose we will know more when the covers are off.

The engine runs great now, we are just doing the chain guides as preventative maintenance. And have read that cleaning the tensioner it a good idea.

Any tips for us moving forward? Do we need the cam alignment tool for replacing the guides?

Also, we've been shopping all over for coolant fittings and hoses, dang they are expensive. The first thing we touched was the 3/4" Tee with 1/4" Tap by the heater core inlet/outlet and it fell apart. This part alone looks to be over $80! And the oil cooler lines are mushy looking from all the oil that has been soaking on them for years. Any tips on where to get some of these TEE's and hoses (OE quality) at better prices would be great. Or which hoses/TEE's are "must replace" vs "not common to fail"

[Zeitgeist 13]

I think someone makes cast aluminum versions of some of those tees. I know when I trimmed the coolant lines by deleting the transmission heat exchanger, I used brass ells to replace plastic tees, which I purchased from Home Depot. They might also have brass tees.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[xavior12]

The 24V Eurovan I did last had two teeth missing on the cam driven sprocket. If theres any wear replace it. Believe me, If you don't you'll have to go back this far to replace it due to noise from uneven wear.

For the tool to lock the cam's, I'd get them, makes the whole job smoother. Can be done with out but is not easy and you better have resources and tools when it don't work.

The coolant T in the back. Lol, yep. Breath on it and it'll break.
Theres some cast aluminum stuff but kinda spendy unless your gonna keep it for ever.
The lower hose that has your broken T is $130 dealer price? I was thinking of having some of those T fittings and the 12V fittings made up from aluminum. And those bleeder screws!

Try your FLAPS for that fitting in the Help section.

Put the intake on after the engine is installed, before you put the front end back on.
Don't forget the drivers axle!

[JMB3]

[markcm2]

[Zeitgeist 13]

As mentioned in that Wikia article, the brass ell I referenced earlier is a Pex unit with small ridged barbs that I assume help hold the hose in place. I would prefer brass to steel or plastic. Note that the stock tee states that it's 30% glass fiber reinforced, so any plastic tee you buy better at least have that designation or it will be even weaker than stock.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[xavior12]

Looks normal to me.
Look closely at the sprockets on the intermediate shaft sprockets, I bet you'll find some wear on them. Replace them.

The crank sprocket has a tooth that has been shaved at an angle, that tooth should line up with the main bearing cap. FYI. Thats where the crank should be when reassembling chains and tensioners.

Don't forget the new seals for the phaser solenoids.

It might give you more room to maneuver the engine when reinstalling so remove the exhaust manifolds. That allows for the cherry picker to get closer to that hook. The Kombi valve/heater hose in the back uses one gasket so might want that one too?

Be very mindful of that head gasket as to not damage it when your scraping and cleaning all the surfaces.

Clock the phasers in the right direction and then install the chain.

[markcm2]

Can you link us to the seals for the phaser solenoids? We don't have that apart yet and we're having a hard time identifying them.

And is the cam tensioner oil screen that is known for plugging up or disintegrating a replaceable part without buying a complete new tensioner?