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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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 Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 5:27 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| It's the air hoses. Maybe hose is the wrong terminology. I've got two good ones, but the other two have been torn even down to the insulation portion. I have doubts about these being available, so I'm searching for salvage cars that may still have them. Bob |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 11:42 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
| It's the air hoses. Maybe hose is the wrong terminology. I've got two good ones, but the other two have been torn even down to the insulation portion. I have doubts about these being available, so I'm searching for salvage cars that may still have them. Bob |
The part #411 261 725 ..actually shows three part #'s in the book each with different lengths 725, 725 B and 725 C.
411 261 423....I do not see anywhere in my schematics. Is that the fat accordion tube pipe that connects between the body and the heater?
The hoses between the heat exchangers and teh gas heater can be gotten. I typically use the aluminized or paper covered aluminized tube that bus owners use to connect the squirrel cage auxiliary fan to the heat exchanger down pipes. It looks like this
https://www.mtmfg.com/part/view/oem-german-heater-...P4QAvD_BwE
You can also get it usually in all aluminum from places like mecmaster carr and at NAPA. Just have to measure the size.
If it is one of those that looks more like this
https://www.mtmfg.com/part/view/hose-heater-to-bod...VoQAvD_BwE
You can rebuild what you have if its not melted or smashed...I think there is a link in the bus forum I will look for. Or you can buy one for a bus.
Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Thanks Ray for the info. My part is 725 C, and goes on the warm side from heater to body. I'm not sure about the diameter size. 50mm or 60mm. Bob |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| I'm just now getting around to removing the heater from the car, and it looks like the only way it will come out is to remove the dip stick tube to the auto transmission. Bob |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Help: Had a sick spell, and bad weather and now back to removing the heater. As last mentioned the dip stick/fill tube for the auto trans. has to be removed to allow movement in removing the heater. Having never done that I have removed the 10mm hold down bolt for the tube, but not sure what the next move is. Do I tap it up to free it? Bob |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 9:51 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
| Help: Had a sick spell, and bad weather and now back to removing the heater. As last mentioned the dip stick/fill tube for the auto trans. has to be removed to allow movement in removing the heater. Having never done that I have removed the 10mm hold down bolt for the tube, but not sure what the next move is. Do I tap it up to free it? Bob |
Yes...it has an o-ring around the base. Part # 003 421 419
You can buy it here at Pelican parts and probably a few other places.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/003321419B.htm?pn=003-321-419-B-M211
You may be able to get one from a dealer as it fit a lot of cars. Check this thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=576743
Its just an o-ring but its listed as 24.5mm. Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 7:50 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Ok thanks. One more question: When I work it loose am I going to get fluid running out? |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 8:04 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
| Ok thanks. One more question: When I work it loose am I going to get fluid running out? |
Yes.....you will get a little in many cases....because the fluid level is slightly high when the engine is not running. I would drain out a pint first. Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:30 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Thanks, I've tried to get the heater out without doing this, but that tube prevents it from lowering down. |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 1:02 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Hate to come to this conclusion, but I can not get the heater out. The only way I see possible is to remove the spring and possibly the shock. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:58 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
| Hate to come to this conclusion, but I can not get the heater out. The only way I see possible is to remove the spring and possibly the shock. |
Its poasible that you might have to. You have an automatic trans right? Between the larger girth of that and differences in how cars are laid it.....it may be an issue.
I know mine came out on my two door 412 and four door 411.....by pulling off the ene cap elbow of the left hand heat exchanger with the wheel off the ground. I had to take the ends of the sway bar loose to get a little more vertical travel on the trailing wishbone.
The blower on the unit must be removed. I had the coil and glowplug out as well. It still scraped around a bit coming out.
If you have to remove the shock and spring.....the easiest way is ti have the car on jack stands. Remove the left rear wheel. Put the floor jack under the brake drum.....take the top nut loose...collapse the shocj if you can and lower it until the rear lift of the coil spring just tilst off the trailing arm but the front end stays in contact. See if that is enough to give you some room. It its not.....jack the wheel up a bit...take the bottom cross bolt out...slide the shock out the bottom. Lower the jack again until the spring comes loose. Mark which way it goes.
It will probably bottom out on the CV joint at this point. Let us know how it goes. Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 8:31 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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Thanks Ray, I have the blower off. It looks like if the spring is out of the way the heater will come out. If I understand correctly if the shock is out, and a jack is under the brake drum, it possibly can be lowered enough to remove the spring. Am I correct this far?
BTW Am I glad I started this, I found the fuel line in three pieces, and broken off about a inch from the heater. The line just crumbles with handling. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 10:27 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
Thanks Ray, I have the blower off. It looks like if the spring is out of the way the heater will come out. If I understand correctly if the shock is out, and a jack is under the brake drum, it possibly can be lowered enough to remove the spring. Am I correct this far?
BTW Am I glad I started this, I found the fuel line in three pieces, and broken off about a inch from the heater. The line just crumbles with handling. |
Yes....there are a couple of items with the spring.
If you are trying to drop the trailing arm down far enough to remove the spring....as the trailing arm lowers....it moves in an arc. The shock only moves vertically. The arc movement will put the shock in a bind and bend it.....wrecking the shock. Ask me how I know  .....f only either the top or bottom is loose.
So...remove the top nut....then the bottom cross bolt holding the shock.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
You NEED to have the car up high enough....so that you can have enough room to have the floor jack under the brake drum....so that you can lower the trailing arm assembly and allow it to go down all the way so you can move the spring. The trailing arm will have to rotate about another 5-6 inches past where it is when the shock is attached. The shock is the travel limiter.
This means that when the car is off the ground....with the wheel still on....you will need about 6" or more under the wheel. So...when you have the wheel off....you have about 12" between the bottom of the brake drum and the ground.
Depending on how low your floor jack is...this allows about 4-5" for teh jack when its fully lowered...and that extra 6" of rotation room.
One might ask...why put the jack under the brake drum? Well...because if you look around and think how the trailing arm rotates...you will find no there really good/stable places to place the jack. You cannot place it under the shock because you need access to the cross bolt.
On the wagon...you may be able to place the jack under the point in the Vee of the trailing arm...because you do not have a sway bar. You may need a short extender block to get a good seat in that vee area.
As you are lowering the trailing arm keep an eye on the shock. The wagons had gas shocks from the factory. If the shock remains fully extended the shock may bind on teh spring. wiggle it around as you go.
You will reach a point where the the trailing arm has gone down as far as it can go...the spring will be still in contact with the trailing arm just on the forward edge...and seem to not want to come out.
To free it....step on the trailing arm and with about 30 lbs of force you will find that it rotates another 2" or so.....this is the trailing arm bushings winding up.
When you get to the point of replacing the fuel line let us know and I can run you through putting a steel line in all the way up to the heater inlet so you only have rubber down at the bottom about 3" long attached to the pump. Its cheap. You "could" use copper or you can use 3/16" brake line.
Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| I was planning on removing the shock completely after placing the jack under the drum. |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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OK---I have the brake drum 13 inches off the floor. My jack is 4inches high. I have marked the spring, and I'm ready to start lowering the trailer arm. My work day is over so I'll let you know how it goes later.
Question: In one of your comments you mentioned loosening the torsion bar. Is that necessary with the procedure I'm using? |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 6:35 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| titan3c wrote: |
OK---I have the brake drum 13 inches off the floor. My jack is 4inches high. I have marked the spring, and I'm ready to start lowering the trailer arm. My work day is over so I'll let you know how it goes later.
Question: In one of your comments you mentioned loosening the torsion bar. Is that necessary with the procedure I'm using? |
Its quite possible. Its been a long time so I cannot be sure. Because the sway bar is attached to the other wheel on the ground and the side you have lifted is going to be lower it can put some twist in it.
Your quickest bet is to detach the outer end links. There is a lock nut on the top side of each swaybar outer link. Put some liquid wrench on them first then take both sides loose and the sway bar will swing out of the way downward.
Ray |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:09 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| I finally got around to trying to remove the spring. It came down to where the spring hung up as you said it would do. But it can't be forced down any further because the trailing arm is resting hard against the cv joint, and the cv joints are at their max bend. The spring just lacks the last round where it ends coming loose. My thoughts are to try some prying ideas to lift it over the hump or get a compress tool of some kind. I see where one must be careful not to damage the brake line. Of course I could take the cv joint transmission end loose------rather not but!!!! |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| I should have said it's resting hard on the cv joint boot more on the drive shaft not the cv joint. |
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barndoormambo
Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2005
Posts: 443
Location: East Coast, Homeland
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| Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 2:15 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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Is there a definitive diagram, or photos, of the fuel flow to theEb. Heater?
_________________
....just cause you don't see it, doesn't mean it isn't there!.... |
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titan3c
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 568
Location: Coweta, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 8:24 am Post subject: Re: Eberspaecher BA4 Overhaul |
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| Ok, I finally got the spring out. Wasn't easy - had to compress the spring some to get it loose. For some reason the bottom end of the spring would hang tight and wouldn't give way. What I did was place a cross piece in the spring (an old lawn mower blade), and then placed a rod up in the shock hole and jacked against it to make it come loose. I took the shock out before I started. |
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