'74 Bay pulled out of the weeds

[Spike0180]

[wcfvw69]

That tanks looks pretty bad. To be sure, you'd need to either take it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out or mix some acid with water and let it soak in to remove the rust. Likely, the metal at the bottom is very thin now, even if it doesn't leak.

You can probably locate a good, original tank in much better condition in the Samba Classifieds or from a VW bus junk yard. The new tanks sold today can be hit and miss for quality and thickness of metal.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Wildthings]

[Tcash]

Gas tank cleaning
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4107710#4107710

[sunny74]

Originally my thought was to only do a refresh on the engine. I was dissuaded on that idea in the engine thread I referenced, where some seemingly knowledgeable Type 4 folks advised against a refresh due to the Type 4 cam being the “Achilles Heel”.

Ahhh, I’m so confirmed on what to do. So many differing / conflicting opinions on this. Who do I listen to? I intend to inspect the cam / lifters before kit committing to a year down and full rebuild. I guess I’ll let the cam and lifter condition be my deciding factor.

As for the tank. I’m going to attempt to clean it up first but if I have any doubts I’ll just replace it with a repop or used.

[wcfvw69]

I think when you inspect the cam and lifters, it will give you better clarity on whether to split it or not. As mentioned, the type 4 engines are much more robust than the type 1 engines.

I had two different bug engines out for clean up with unknown mileage. Both ran perfectly fine but I hated not knowing the condition of the engines or quality of the last rebuild. I split the cases on both engines and found issues in both. One engine had worn through the babbitt material on the main bearings and were showing brass. I caught it just in time. The crank was still perfect and I was able to install new bearings with no crank machine work. The case didn't need a line bore either. It was a very low cost rebuild with just bearings, reground lifters rebuilt rods, seal kit and the cost of having the heads rebuilt. The biggest cost was my labor.

The second engine had clearly had a recent valve job. It was showing a weird grit on the sump plate. When I tore it down, it was also showing heavily worn bearings and had a lot of grit in the sump. No idea how the previous owner got it in there. The case required a line bore as well as the crank being turned. The heads were perfect and didn't require a rebuild.

Now, I drive both these VW's without any concern of engine issues. With as few miles as I put on them each year, both engines will last me till I sell them or croak.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[sunny74]

[curtp07]

Great find! Welcome. So many great guys here, take their advice, they invest a ton of time and effort into the VW community.
_________________
Subaru

[sunny74]

Quick update:

I got all of the loose rust and chunks of varnished fuel out of the tank. Then I added denatured alcohol and a chain and have been shaking it around every once in a while since this time yesterday to loosen more of the gunk.

Doing this fortunately but unfortunately exposed a pinhole leak in the tank. Because of this I am not going to mess around with trying to repair it any further.

Is there a good quality reproduction tank out there? I have read some of the reviews of the ones sold on some of the bus parts sites and they usually are not the greatest. I know someone mentioned possibly picking up a used tank but I hate to think of the shipping costs on something like that....then again, a web store will have to ship one too.

Any insight on a replacement?

Thanks in advance.

[sunny74]

Fishing has kept me away from my bus project for the dog days of summer. Now that things are cooling down in WI. I have turned my focus back to the bus.

My fuel tank is toast. I noticed a couple of pinhole leaks when soaking it in restoration agents. I will not bother trying to repair it as I don't want future headaches related to a leaking fuel tank. I will order a new or look for a restored used tank.

I ordered and received my 3 Arm engine stand adapter from VW alley and got the engine transferred over to it. I also pulled two of the pushrods / tubes / lifters for a quick cam inspection. Any thoughts on the condition of the cam based on the pics?

I have also started prepping the engine bay for a repaint:

I'll be replacing the battery tray with a Klassic Fab piece or a NOS OEM
if I can find it

I picked up this Eastwood Surface Conditioning Tool and I'll use it to clean up any really rusty areas in the engine bay and other areas of the project. Its a pretty sweet tool for refinishing projects.

[sunny74]

I've been working on removing the rotted out battery tray the last couple days. I've got most of the old material cut and grounded out.

I realized that there's a rust hole on the exterior that coincides with the seam of the tray. Before I install the new battery tray i'll need to address this hole.

I have welded before but have never welded any exterior body metal before. I understand its the same concept but I want the finish to look good. Also, this is kind of a strange area to have to patch being that there is a recess for the taillight etc.

Does anyone have any experience patching this area? Any tips?

Thanks.

[dwill49965]

Bus Depot has new gas tanks.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201075l
_________________
Darryl
--------------
'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A

[advCo]

The rot along the battery tray seam appears to be pretty common. Are you going to grind out the rest of the lip from the OG battery tray? It may be a good idea because that seam is clearly not sealed any more and any moisture trapped between there and the body will continue to create problems.

My plan to tackle that area is to completely remove the OG tray, straighten, cut & repair the rotted area along the seam w/ an outer corner repair panel, and then weld in the battery tray and seam seal against the body.
_________________
"He pulled the mirrors off his Cadillac ‘cause he doesn’t like it looking like he looks back"
'68/'70 Ghia Coupe Project
'70 Westy Project - Champagne I Wannabe
A bunch of vintage Japanese motorcycles
"Much ingenuity with a little money is vastly more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity." -A. Bennett

[TDCTDI]

HAH, that's a great idea! Someone in one of the forums was just whining about not being able to get their assembled engine off their bench.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[sunny74]

[sunny74]

Because my metal shaping skills are limited I'd like to get a hold of one of these repair panels. I have not been able to find them anywhere in the states without having to buy the whole rear corner up to the roof. I really only need the section below the taillight to repair the area I pictured earlier.

Does anyone know where I can get one in the states?

TIA

[babysnakes]

Look through the classifieds, there are plenty of buses being parted out. Find one in a dry state and have them take a bunch of pictures. Good original metal beats most reproduction parts.

[sunny74]