How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation

[nlorntson]

I thought I'd put together a How To for the split and oval rear axle seal replacement. This is for the style of bearing retainers with the lip on the cap which is technically all the way up to split case 1957 I believe.

If your axle tube has the lip shown in the picture and the matching lip on the bearing cap, this is for you. Another hint is that your paper seals that come in the kit will not fit on the face of the axle tube because the lip is too large in diameter for the paper gasket to fit over. On this version, the paper gasket is not used at all.

First piece to go on is the inner bearing spacer, it has a flat side and a tapered side. The tapered side is round and serves to fit nicely against the curved base of the axle. The other side is flat and gives the inner race of the bearing a flat surface to rest on.

Next, the large ball bearing goes on (SKF 6306). Slide it on over the splines as far as you can with your fingers then use a drift and a hammer to carefully tap on the inner race to drive it down. Do not tap on the outer race! Work around the inner race at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock tapping. You must move around the race to keep the bearing from getting cocked on the axle shaft.

As the bearing gets closer to the axle tube, position the tube so the outer race of the bearing can slip into the opening in the axle tube. Keep tapping that inner race until the sound and feel change telling you it is fully seated. Approximately two thirds the width of the bearing should be sticking out of the axle tube.

Next, I put a thin smear of black RTV sealer on the axle tube outside of the flange. The backing plate will seal to this surface. This is not a mandatory step, but this can be a leak spot so no harm in doing so.

Now the backing plate can go on. Be sure the back surface is clean and dry. I assembled the brakes on the backing plate first but you may find it easier to do that once the backing plate is bolted to the axle. Either way, be sure to properly orient the backing plate so the brake cylinder is in the right position for your application. It will be either at 12 or 6 o'clock.

Slip the backing plate so it is over the flange and sitting flush on the axle tube surface where the black RTV was smeared. You can see the flange in the picture between the outer race and the backing plate.

Next on is the small washer. It sits right on the bearing inner race.

Next is the large O-ring. Carefully slip it over the outer race of the bearing so it sits in that gap between the outer race and the backing plate, right over the flange.

Next on is the bearing cap. You should have already installed the wheel seal into the bearing cap so the outer surface is full seated in the cap. You'll notice the outer edge of the seal edge of the seal rests on a lip inside the bearing cap. The seal must be fully seated against this lip.

Notice the matching lip on the outer edge of the bearing cap. This surface is going to squeeze the large o-ring against the axle tube lip to create the main seal around the bearing.

I put a bit of bearing grease on the inside of the bearing cap seal so the outer spacer slips in smoothly. I also put a bit of black RTV on the outer surface of the bearing cap, outside of the lip. Again, this is not required but can help prevent leaks.

Next, bolt down the bearing cap. There are special bolts and spring washers you should use. Don't use others, and don't use non spring washers. Torque these four bolts to 43 ft lb.

Next is the small o-ring. You can certainly install this over the outer washer before the bearing cap and seal are put on, but I like to use the thick outer spacer to push it evenly down the splined shaft.

Next is the thick outer spacer. This also has a flat side and a tapered side. The tapered side goes toward the small o-ring to make the inner seal of the axle. The brake drum puts pressure on the spacer and thus the small o-ring which is why you may have leaks until your brake drum is fully torqued.

The blue seal rides on the thick outer spacer so it is important that the surface is as glassy smooth and free from any distortions as possible. If not, over time, the inner lip on the blue seal will be torn or worn away and you'll get some leaking.

Some folks prefer to place the outer spacer inside the blue seal before slipping the whole works on the splined shaft. This is fine too, just be sure to put a thin layer of grease on the outer spacer and have that small o-ring in place.

Even after all the seals and RTV, some small amount of transmission oil may weep past all these seals. This is why the oil slinger is needed on the drum. Be sure it is installed, and oil can get out the tube. If It's missing, the oil will get sprayed on the shoes and drums.

Slip on the drum and tighten the castle nut to 217 ft lbs. Go a tad bit tighter (rather than looser) if you need to orient the nut to be able to install the large cotter pin. Of course, do the final tightening when the car is off the jack and on the ground. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten this nut! Do not guess at the torque. Drop some coin on a good torque wrench.

Happy driving

[Ovally]

Perfect, thanks!

""Slip on the drum and tighten the castle nut to 253 ft lbs.""

I thought it was 217 ft lbs for Split and Oval and then a bit tighter to be able to install the large cotter pin.Never had problems.

Regards.

[62ItalianRagtop]

Wow ... thank you very much for this HOW TO
_________________
LOOKING FOR 62 ENGINE WITH NUMBER FROM 6.904.xxx TO 6.915.xxx
http://tettodistraccio.blogspot.com/

[Ovally]

Repair manual VW Bug, torque specification for the castle nut : swing axle 217 ft lbs, irs axle 253 ft lbs.

If it is necessary : both a bit tighter to be able to install the large cotter pin.

Regards

[nlorntson]

Torque value is updated above. Too much work on buses lately

Thanks!

[BulliBill]

Really nice and illustrated "how-to" Nancy (and Dick). Always helpful to see it in great photos and explanation.

Bill Bowman
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I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[nlorntson]

[txoval]

Just one tip, RTV sealants very greatly. Black is a good choice, but they do make a gray specifically for gear oil.

Always make sure you have matching axle tubes and bearing caps. A lot of times you’ll see these mixed up, my 54 had bearing caps from a 58+ car. Finding the early caps can be a chore, but make all the difference in the world when it comes to annoying leaks.

This post is awesome and perfect for the early cars

[Nevohteeb]

[nlorntson]

[Nevohteeb]

[jason]

Use some oil on the orings, will help with seating. They won’t hangup.

[D. Haviland]

I grease the spacer before I put it through the seal. Such an archaic set-up. It always amazes me that they don't crap out quicker than they do.

[Nevohteeb]

[jason]

Oil on the lips of the seal too. Just a little to keep it from burning. I dont want grease flinging off in there.

[kwalker]

I have a long breaker bar. I (now) weigh 150 lbs. So for 217 ft lbs I out the closest edge of my shoe 1.45 ft out from the center point of the breaker bar/socket. I then slowly step on the bar (when it is parallel to the ground). DO NOT JUMP on it! Logically that SHOULD be the required torque. I sometimes slowly step off of the bar and then slowly back on just to be sure it actually is at that torque.
Thoughts?

[nlorntson]

[EverettB]

[Got_Air]

This is amazing! I have really struggled with this. Thanks for the step by step. Very helpful!

[Nevohteeb]

I forgot to answer, but indeed I managed to rebuild everything following your method.
Pretty straightforward.