200 Watt Solar Install on Westy

[WillSharp]

Hey all,
I just finished installing 200W of solar on my 91 Westy, and I thought I'd post up some pics and info for others looking to do the same.

I decided upon 200W based upon my draws and location. I live in the mountains of Colorado, so in the winter the suns angle is pretty terrible for solar.
I calculated my daily power draws in a worst case scenario, meaning that hypothetically I used everything for the maximum amount of time in a single day.
My power draws are:
Stereo: 1amp, 3hrs/day, 12W, 0.012kW, 0.036kWh
Propex HS2800: 2A, 2.5hrs/day, 24W, 0.024kW, 0.06kWh
Engel Cooler: 0.5A, 4.5hrs/day, 6W, 0.006kW, 0.027kWh
Interior Lights: 2A, 3hrs/day, 24W 0.024kW, 0.72kWh
Faucet pump: 0.5A, 0.25hrs/day, 6W, 0.006kW, 0.0015kWh

The cooler and heater cycle so they are only on for a couple hours each day in total. This, like I said, is worst case scenario where I am using every power combustive device in my van all day. This rarely happens.
Those are the main draws, I also have a 400W inverter, but I rarely ever use it so I just added in 0.1kWh for it. All together I get about 0.9kWh. Using a great website called PVWatts (http://pvwatts.nrel.gov) you can enter your location and then all your solar info (panel angle etc.) and it will calculate the kWh produced by your setup for any given month. Based on where I live, in December (shortest days of the year) 200W of solar (mounted horizontally) will produce around 0.65kWh which is a bit short of my total. However my alternator will also charge my batteries so If I move around, I should be fine.
I have 150Ah of deep cycle house battery capacity that the panels are charging.

So what I purchased is:
(1)Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 Solar Charge Controller 100V 20A with Bluetooth
(2) Renogy 100W solar pannels
(2) Renogy CNCT-MC4Y Branch Connectors
(5pk.) MC4 Male/ Female Solar Panel Cable Connectors
25' of 12AWG landscape 2 pair wire cable
(2) 20A inline fuse holders
(2) 20A fuses
(1) MICTUNING DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Digital Display Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter Volt Watt Power Energy Meter Blue with 100A/75mV Shunt
(2) 8' sticks angle aluminum

I already have a custom fuse panel for all my camper stuff installed that I join the solar and batteries together on.

Fuze Panel:

This is installed under the false floor/shelf in the cabinet. It makes a great place to hide electrical stuff because the battery box (under D seat) is right next to it. I chose a MPPT controller because 200W is quite a bit and a general rule I have heard is: more than 100W and multiple panels - MPPT. Less than 100W and single panel - PWM. The Victron I got is programable from computer or phone and has built in bluetooth that gives you all you solar stats on your phone.

I put the inline fuse holders before and after the controller w/ 20A fuses because W/V=A so, 200/12 =16.6A and it is a 20A controller so wanted to keep it protected. All my wiring is 12gauge which can easily withstand 20A.

The charge controller was a bit taller than the shelf so I made a little strip to elevate it:

I got this little LCD screen that also gives me basic solar stats:

It has a shunt that goes on the - side of the solar output, the screen then connects to the shunt. It is rated for 100A.

As for the panels themselves, I wired them in parallel using the Renogy CNCT-MC4Y Branch Connectors and the MC4 connectors. This is not a must, you could solder them together, however it is nice to have a quick disconnect.

The two panels lined up are just shy of 8' long so I got 2 8' sticks of aluminum angle to make a frame. I just used many metal screws to secure the panels to the angle. It is very solid.

On my poptop, I have 3 yakima bars so the panels nicely sit on them. I made some brackets out of rubber clamps and more angle aluminum:

This attaches the frame to the bars:

I also threw on some massive zip ties underneath just for backup.

The wiring I routed thru the cabinets, up into the upper bed, then thru the top about out, sealed w/silicone.

Need to get out and test it! I will post up how its all working.

Also, I have a 100Ah battery mounted in the little cabinet, this is a good place to stash a big battery. I remove the little hidden wall to get it to fit. Also both house battery have big 100A switched so they can easily be disabled

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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[jimf909]

Well done and a nice write up.

I’m at a point where I believe that a 200 watt panel and 150 ah of aux batteries (100 ah aux batt plus 50 ah aux batt under the driver’s seat) will put me in a worry-free zone. I’ve had 100 watt panel on the roof and now have a ~75watt panel on the roof with a 100 watt panel that I plug in when needed and after those iterations I’d just like to have 200 watts permanently installed on the roof. My consumption is similar to yours: fridge, propex, lights, devices to charge, etc.
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- Jim

[Abscate]

That estimator is a bit optimistic.

A 200 watt panel will deliver about 600watt hour is summer, and 350-400 watt hour in winter, without adjusting the panel. It will help if you add a park and clean ritual to your camping checklist.

If you keep your loads down to 2-3 hours a day, it will be fine.

Watch out for thermal loads on electronics in enclosed spaces. High temps cycle connectors which then loosen....develop resistance.....arc...spark.....fire.
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.ssS!

[WillSharp]

[WillSharp]

[theadventureneverends]

Great documentation! Thank you.

Are you able to post pics of your other house battery and your switches, a pic of your panels looking down on them from above the length of your westy, and I would sure like to see your 2800 install location?

Thank you!
John

[RichBenn]

[[email protected]]

Does lcd screen show amps in as well as amps out? Seems like it only shows amps comming in from solar panel? So if one wanted to see amps going out from battery they would need a second one?

Thanks

[Sodo]

Interesting stuff. I need to get Solar on my van, and every thread helps. Thanks for all the time creating this post!!

[TommyBoyGomes]

This is a good start. I would recommend the following:

- Increase the cabling gauge size between the output of your charge controller and your battery terminals. 12 AWG is likely undersized even for this short distance. Do a quick calc on voltage drop over length/gauge of cable and you'll see how much voltage you're losing (.1 or .2V means a lot to a battery). 6AWG usually works out to be ok for runs less than 10ft if your charge controller's terminals are large enough to accept it. Btw, turning up the output voltage from your charge controller (if that's even an option) is not the right way to compensate for voltage loss.
- Ensure your charge controller is outputting the proper charging voltage that your battery wants. Most AGM batteries are in the 14.3V range and flooded cell want closer to 14.7V. These are just ranges though - check the battery's specs.

The above will help you from undercharging your battery, which will trash their capacity in no time at all.
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1969 Squareback, 1776cc
1990 Vanagon Multivan

[WillSharp]

[Abscate]

Just noting the quality of workmanship of wiring routing, chafe relief , and strain relief on this install
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.ssS!

[AZ Landshaper]

Great write up man. I learned a little something about a subject I was interested in. Thanks.
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Support Small Business.

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85 Weekender w/ EJ22
Previously
64, 71, 72, 73, 76, 81, 84, 85 & 87 Campmobiles and Westfalias
and a 67 bug.

[WillSharp]

Update:
So because I'm still working on my subie conversion, I only have the van out for relatively short periods while I'm running errands and what not. However, the solar is working great.
Quick tip: The solar connector plugs I used are a little tricky to install, I got the wrong sized pin in the wrong connector and only one panel was working at first. Not a big deal, just mind your pins when installing them into the connectors.

The other day, parked in moderate sun (ever so slightly cloudy) I was getting 145W, pretty dang good for January.
The Victron controller app is awesome!
Heres some screen shots of basic functions: (mind these were taken at night hence the 0W output. Also, the van sits in a garage so there are gaps in the output where it was in a dark garage.

If you look at "yesterday" output you will see that I got 270 Wh, with a peak of 140W. I was only out for a few hours, so just an example.
In the settings, you can change the different charging voltages etc.
Finally it gives you live stats (says 0W cause its dark).
So far, I really like the app, you just launch it, and it instantly connects. I also like that it tracks it for you.

I think I will probably make a little wind fairing for the front to reduce upward lift under the panels while driving. I ordered the INNO racks one, but my bar is too far forward and the fairing ends up sitting in the luggage rack. I think I should be able to make something tho.
No terrible wind noises while driving 65mph+ currently though.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[fleetwood41]

Great and timely write-up as I'm beginning to piece together my set-up to harness some Colorado sun.

Thanks for your efforts!
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1987 2WD w/ 2.5 Subi & Poptop Conversion

[[email protected]]

Your fridge only pulls .5amps? 6w per day? Sound too low, or too good to be true. I would think more like 2 to 5 amps. If not I need a new fridge!

[WillSharp]

[WillSharp]

[dsdunbar]

Hi All,

Something popped into my mind when I read the post about fire concern. Where is the concern? At the battery or at the node(controller?) where all the connections come in?

I ask because, if it is at the battery, could one install a loop of the fire suppressing system (dang it I cant recall the name, I have it sitting in my garage, the tubes that you line your engine hatch with that will give one dose of fire suppressant if temps hit a threshold). Anyways...point being, would this "protection" work for Batteries? or would this cause more issues?

Just looking at the small cabinet where the OP installed the battery i feel like a coil could fit.

thoughts?

BLAZE cut...thats the name i was looking for
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'89 2WD Westy "Grey Goose" - Manual 4spd
Crozet VA
Vanaru EJ25, Peloquin

[WillSharp]