Here's Sonya, a Mexican 1974 beauty

[busdaddy]

Yes, #3 needs spark plug hole work, so much easier to do out of the bus.

The rear ends of those heat exchangers need work as well, it needs a smooth pipe to seal up with the muffler, those look like there's been gooping and welding along with rust and abuse going on.
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[tonysantacruz]

[busdaddy]

There's a number of options, do some reading and decide which method best suits your skills and what's available to you for supplies: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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[tonysantacruz]

Tools and spare parts for the practice engine are slowly flowing in (got my boroscope/endoscope yesterday). I'm close to getting the engine stand ready and the half-circle to allow it to screw in the starter should arrive before Christmas.
The heater exchange boxes arrived and they are beautiful. The sled tins fit perfectly, so I'm confident I can fix them up to the bus, once she's back from the painter. Damn cool weather.

My practice engine is Brazilian. And not only that: someone stamped a name on it.

The valve boxes are Mexican, though.

Spark plug holes. I believe it's 4, 3, 2 and 1.

Inside the #1 cylinder:

The practice Bocar carb I bought (I can tell it's missing the choke bolt, what else I'm not sure). I'm going to take it apart, clean it and install it.
The bolts are suspect, seems like the front one is too loose.

As you can tell, the back has two rather long screws at the bottom. It's safe to remove them with a vice grip, so I can use bolts to fix it to the engine stand yoke, correct?

I'm also a bit concerned. I have 10mm bolts, lugs and washers to fix it to the yoke, but the top right hole from the flywheel seems like it has threads and the 10mm bolt is very loose in them. Do I need to use another type of bolt? or I just screw a 10mm with a washer and a nut, ignoring the threads?
Or I just fit a 12mm bolt?
Thanks.

[busdaddy]

There shouldn't be any need to remove the studs on the lower bellhousing flange to fit it to the stand, use a short section of pipe, a stack of washers or a spare socket to make up the length and put a nut on it. If you have to remove them it's OK, but don't grab them by the threaded areas. The upper RH hole isn't threaded, the long starter bolt goes through it and is secured with a nut on the rear, you'll need a shorter bolt and a nut for that one.

That carb is interesting, it appears to have some sort of vacuum operated valves on the main jet as well as the idle, I'm intrigued...., altitude compensator perhaps?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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[tonysantacruz]

Yeah, I’ll use the extensions on the long bolts, thanks.
The carb has a version with altitude management/control, but I’m at sea level, so it shouldn’t be an issue.

This is the version with it.

Full version here, should be the first one:

https://vehiculos.mercadolibre.com.mx/accesorios/valvula-altimetrico-vw

[cmonSTART]

Shiny new carburetors make me happy...
_________________
'78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS

[tonysantacruz]

I confirmed that the #3 spark plug hole is wider than the other three. Thicker spark plug, too.

My brother helped me make a spacer (he has a lathe and needs to hone his skills)

I played around with the engine, trying to find top dead center, but it seems to be a bit off.

I used my boroscope and the past TDC mark on the pulley is exactly where the cylinder is at the top of the compression.

I’m still waiting for the bit to hook up the starter to the engine and run it from the stand. I have he compression tester eager and waiting to check it out.

The bus is still at the painter’s, they star painting in Tuesday. I hope she’s ready before Christmas (still need to put the seals and change the headlights), and dozens of little details.

[busdaddy]

Is there a shallow dimple under the white paint?, that should be TDC, the notch is usually 7.5 BTDC. The spark plug is not wider, it has the repair insert stuck on it (it should be stuck in the head).
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[Abscate]

I hope your Christmas present is ready!

Get rid of those cheese grater type clamps and replace with closed band type ( amateurs) or oetiker ( pros) type
_________________
.ssS!

[tonysantacruz]

[tonysantacruz]

Update.
Bus's engine purrs like a kitten, suspension works fine and even the shifter shifts when it should where it should. Battery died, had to replace it.
Enngine temp is ok, tops at 300-315°F and I've run her up to 55 mph (not for long, though, she's an old girl).

I also connected the interior cold air ducts and now I have a nice, cool stream of cold air while I drive. Sure, that also happens when I open the window, but eh, I kinda dug it.

Today I'm taking her to get all the door seals put in, fix the issues with the windows, make sure the doors lock ok (passenger door tends to fly open if you turn left. I had to tie it closed.

Afterwards, she goes with the electric guy in order to change the headlights, check the final wiring issues (the lighter shortcircuited my tire air pump) and then it's just a matter of putting in the interior door panels.

[tonysantacruz]

She's nearly done.

I connected the pre-heat duct to the pre-heat intake on the oil bath filter, no more cold engine issues.

I took her to the electricity guy, fixed a lot of issues: the lighter was faulty, he replaced it. The rear right brake light was rusty as hell, he replaced it, put a button for the horn on the dashboard (where the old hazard switch was), put a base on the floating stereo, the works. Nice, amicable old dude who had a couple of muscle cars there. Best thing? He did his work within two days. That's practically lightning speed!

The steering column has some sort of hubcap between it and the floor, mine is carved all to hell, that's why the turn signals don't reach all the way up to be canceled when the steering wheel goes back. Need to replace that if I want it fixed.



But in the meantime, I'll put in the door panels and ride in the old gal. She's a delight to drive. Now that she has a cup holder, she will be my Saturday morning drive to Starbucks.

[KentABQ]

You are a very patient person, Tony!

It's been a long torturous process to get to this point. But you're made it through the toughest part, and now you can enjoy time with Sonya on a daily basis.

Have fun!!!
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[tonysantacruz]

Thanks, KentABQ! The old girl is worth it.

So...

I spent Friday afternoon attaching the door panels. Took me six hours. Six!
Left one was a pain in the ass because not one hole matched and I had to cut and place the elbow rests/handles several times.

I broke the little cab door thingy (the one that lets you open the door from the inside, but the replacement should be here on Thursday.

The vintage stereo was a mistake, I think. It can only receive one station and the speaker makes noises the Doctor Who people would love to have used for the TARDIS or the show's intro.

I bought an affordable bluetooth speaker and I'll hook up my phone's Spotifiy account and that's it. Stereo will be just for show, just like the speakers.

Next, I'll put the stickers I bought two years ago (the steering column sign, sliding door decals and the engine lid info. Last part of the look.

I have an issue with the wipers. I put one of them, on the left side, and it worked fine for a couple of strokes. Then it did a 360o turn and I freaked out.

As you can see, the right side part becomes an innie. If that nut is not there, the thing diappears inside completely. Am I missing a retainer somewhere?


Link



Now that Shakira is done, I've driven my daughter two Saturdays in a row to do errands and have a Dad-Daughter breakfast at the closest Starbucks. Bus has not disappointed; I'm driving with a smile, here.

[busdaddy]

Looking good!

The wiper shafts once had a tiny circlip (wire ring) on the shaft a little below where the splines end to keep them from sliding in.
Not sure why it would work fine and then do a 360, either the arm was losse on the shaft and slipped before catching again, or the linkage behind the dash is janky.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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[tonysantacruz]

She's complete.

Last week I put the wipers in, did a few tests and they work fine. No water from the water bottle, maybe I'll put one generic water container and put a button on the dash for the squirt. I don't want to put the original hoses to work and mess up the turn signal or the ignition with loose water.

I spent this morning fixing up the door panels and securing the armrest to the door proper. Then I gave her a wash, shampoo with wax and then a dry with micropore towels. Like the peasants in Warcraft used to say "Work Completed".

I fished out the decals from the bottom drawer of my toolbox and put them in. . Didn't do too good a job (I think the adhesive spent too long without being used) but I'm happy that they are there.

The speaker on the shade works fine. Now I can drive with Spotify!

I just need to put the spare tire in, the toolbox, spare parts and whatnot, but she is done and running quite well.

Now, I'm going to mock-up the inspection decals Mexican authorities gave to all cars during the 70's. The bus had them, gave her lots of character, but the idiot across the street broke the window when he was in his first go-through her.

January 2018 to July 2021. Work done:
Body work.
Paint.
Replaced cabin and cargo floor.
Re-upholstered the seats.
Changed the instrument cluster.
Fixed the speedometer. Got the gas gauge and sender.
Restored the steering wheel.
Installed the starter (because previous owner took the ignition ouf of the steering column and put it on the left side of the dashboard. You started it by turning the key, with your left hand, towards you.
Bought all the engine tin.
Bought all the door seals and engine seals.
Replaced the headliner.
Put in the floor carpet.
Had first electrician re-do the wiring.
Had second electrician re-re-do the wiring.
Second electrician installed the CHT gauge, broke the crystal, did not hook it up.
Fixed the shocks, brakes.
Fixed starter.
They installed the interior door panels and window winders (but they broke after two uses)

Took her to the other mechanic.
Fixed all the engine problems.
Replaced starter.
Replaced the transmission.
Put all the nuts and bolts on the wheels.
Replaced side mirrors.
Replaced rear-view mirror.
Replaced fuel tank.
Bought and put in the door locks.
Put in the odometer cable.

Took her to third electrician.
They re-re-re-did everything electricians 1 and 2 botched: replaced the alternator (Elect #2 burnt it) hooked up the gas sender to gauge.
Connected the previously installed, but non-working CHT gauge.
Connected the horn to the steering column. Horn engaged when I turned left, so I unhooked it.
Installed stereo, but did not secure it.

Took the bus home several weeks during pandemic, so this added about a year to the work done. I put in the parts to let the cold air reach the dashboard vents.

Went back to Mechanic 3 to complete engine and tin installation.
Put in the mustache bar.
Bought the thermostat and flaps, and the tin from AwesomePowderCoat, but old coot couldn't install it (too many parts from too many sources don't work well when fit together).

Took her to Body guy 3. Another old coot.
Fixed the sticking door on the right side.
Cut the roof and added an inch to the right passenger column, which allowed it to close the passenger door properly.
Fixed sliding door.
Fixed driver's door.
Fixed window mechanism.
Replaced the engine door lock.
Fixed door mechanism.
Fixed rear cargo door and engine door.
Replaced the area around the windshield and put in an original one, allowing me to have a decent windshield wiper motor.
Put in the grill for the cold air intake.
Connected the the odometer wire to the odometer.
I used clips to secure the dashboard (a USA one, from a 1960's-1971 bus, which a) works and b) I love the color scheme.

Took her to Paint guys #3.

Redid all the paint because paint from idiot from across the street was already puckering up in parts, other panels were weathered, despite being under a roof for a year).
Replaced the damaged headliner.

I put in the oil air bath filter, all the hoses and the charcoal-activated canister.

Took her to mechanic #4 (close to home)
Had a problem with the homokinetics and he fixed it, but he said I had to go with...

Suspension, shocks and brakes guy, to fix the height issue I had with the rear axle.
He also fixed the steering wheel, because it had less parts than it should have, so I popped my elbow while getting out of a parking lot. Now it turns smooth as buttah.

Took her back to to Body Work old Coot 3.
He redid the passenger side door and put in all the rubber seals in every door (previous seals put in by guys across the street were rubbish).
Put the front up and welded steel where previous owner had put tons and tons of paste.

Took her to electrician #4
He fixed the rear right brake light, the horn issue (I gave up and put a button on the dashboard), made sure my high-beams engaged, replaced the lighter and hooked up the stereo.

I put in the wipers and the door panels.
Put the decals.
Hooked my sun-shade speaker.

***Forgot to add***

Put in a parking brake wire.
Replaced the exhaust.
Replaced that exhaust and put in heat exchangers.
Replaced the windshield wiper lever.
Bought the plate that goes under the driver, to protect the pedals, but surprise surprise, it wasn0t the right fit.
Bought three dashboard clocks. One works. Haven't installed it.
Bought the ashtray for the cargo area, haven't installed it.
Bought the arm rests for the cargo area, haven't installed them.
Put in working seatbelts.
Put in rear bench seatbelts (just two).
Put in the cup holder.
Bought a shift-lever extender, but couldn't shift to third because it bumped with the cup holder.
Removed cup holder.
Figured life in a bus without a cup holder is kinda lame.
Removed lever extender, put back the cup holder.



Whew!

[KentABQ]

Whew! ...is right!

You've come a long, long way to get Sonya back to her beautiful self.
Now you get the satisfaction of driving her and showing her off.

Enjoy!
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[tonysantacruz]

Driving her is a pleasure. The old dame can make heads turn, no doubt about it.
Had a few mechanical issues taken care of last week, no biggie.

But...the passenger side window rolls down on its own. Heck, I can roll it out just by pressing my palm and pulling down from the outside.

Is the regulator broken?

So far, I can keep it closed using a cell-phone holder sucker and using it as a makeshift stop on the inside, but I'd like something more permanent.

Is it a matter of adjusting screws or the thing needs to be replaced? (mind you, I think it's a rework of an old one, 'cause the new ones I bought sucked and the old guy #4 outright refused to install them).

[busdaddy]

Sounds like a regulator problem, sadly there's no way to adjust the friction on them. You might be able to increase the resistance of the tracks by removing the insert in the vertical part and adding something under it to shim them closer to the window, a long strip of bicycle inner tube perhaps?

It's a slippery slope though, too much drag on the tracks and the winder mechanism will break.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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