'87 Diesel engine won't start

[tomdevis]

Hey everyone!
I would love to pick your brain for a moment.

I’m the proud owner of a ‘87 T3 with a 1.6 turbo Diesel engine. Which ran fine right up this winter when due to freezing temperatures it had trouble starting. Or at least, that is what I thought it was.
Now a couple of months later and not driving/starting it, it won't start anymore. It cranks but there is no ignition.

I've recharged the battery and double checked the glowing lights with a volt meter.

The mechanic I bought the VW from told me to spray 'brake cleaner' in the inlet manifold. Because the engine has trouble pulling it vacuum.

Now due to me not finding all that much information about the VW T3 Diesel engines I'd like to double check if this really would be ok to do and if there are any other things I could check?

I was thinking on also checking the fuel supply.

Sorry if this is an obvious problem, but I'm scratching my head big time.
Also, the reason I'm not just calling the mechanic over is because he lives in a different country and I would love to learn to fix the car by myself.

Kind regards,
Tom

EDIT: Fixed it by cleaning the fuel lines.

[zuhandenheit]

There are forum members that know these motors better than I do, but I've spent enough time working on a similar engine (1.9td) that I can probably save them some time and help you out.

Don't spray brake cleaner in the intake. Ether/brake cleaner may help it start, but there's a risk of engine damage.

You need air, fuel, pressure, and heat to start the motor. It's harder to start a diesel engine in the cold. It's possible you have a problem with your glow plugs, fuel delivery, or have low compression.

You'll have to go through a diagnostics process. You should get a battery charger and/or another car that you can hook up with jumper cables. You may need a lot of juice for cranking to figure out what's wrong.

I'd say you should start either by checking your glow plugs or the fuel system. Checking the plugs could be as easy as cycling them and then checking that each is warm.

Second you should see if fuel is flowing. Do you have a clear fuel line from the fuel filter to the injector pump? If so, look for air in the lines.

If you don't have clear lines or if there are no air bubbles, crack the fuel lines where they connect to the injectors -- loosen each just a bit. Crank the motor and look for fuel dripping down the injectors. It may take awhile, but if the IP is working and the filter isn't clogged, you should see fuel at each injector.

[Gizmoman]

There is a 12 volt cut-off valve on the injection pump that open when you turn the key to the on or start position. It has one wire going to it. You may want to check it with a meter or test light to make sure it's getting voltage. If you have someone else turn the key while you place your finger on the switch, you can feel it click.

If you are getting fuel at the injectors as was previously mentioned, the valve is working fine.
_________________
82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).

[tomdevis]

Thank you for the replies! Will be testing them tonight!

How do you feel if the glow plugs are warm? Or more exactly , where should you feel it? (or should I first pull them out to be able to feel them? )

I'll be skipping on the brake cleaner.
Would it be possible to feel if there is enough air circulation by holding my hand at the exhaust?
I believe it won't be warm as long as the engine doesn't start?

Or are there any other ways to check if there might be something wrong with the compression.

[Gizmoman]

It sounded like it was running and compression won't fail just by sitting unless water got into the cylinders (let's hope not).
If you can feel heat around the glow plugs they are probably OK. Wouldn't hurt to pull them but it's a pain if you don't need to.

A diesel engine is very simple - air, fuel, compression. The compression would almost have to be zero on all four to not even try to run.

Check for fuel by loosening one or all of the fittings at the injectors and make sure your getting 12 volts to the cut-off valve. Also make sure your battery is in good condition as well as the cable connections at the battery and starter. A jump start might help but shouldn't be needed unless you have battery issues.
_________________
82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).

[MarkWard]

Glowplug fuse? Follow the wire from the glowplugs to a small black block. Pick at the fuse. They can fail and look ok. That is also where you can check for power.
_________________
☮️

[Team WorldTour]

To check compression, you must first locate the fuel shut-off solenoid. Disconnect it. Loosen your injector lines and move them out of the way. You now have access to your injectors. Remove one, insert compression gauge.
Lather, Rinse, Repeat.

To check the Glow Plugs, Turn on the key (the GP light should light up (if not, you have other problems!). Run around to the back and put the Muli-Meter to them. 9-12 volts on the glow plug bus (check out the glow plug mod thread!) is normal. If you want to touch them, it won't burn you.
If you want to remove them, I recommend taking about three days with it. PB Blaster (WD-40, Liquid Wrench) sprayed directly on the glow plugs for three days, then try to remove (carefully!).

P.S. I'm not going to volunteer Waldi for anything, but he is MY pick for best advice in this timezone.
Drop me a line if you have anymore questions.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[DanHoug]

#1 - check glow plugs and fuse circuit. lots of info online about doing this but my favorite is with an infra red camera.

#2 - check 12v fuel solenoid as mentioned

#3 - what is your ambient temperature? if it was filled with biodiesel or #2, you may simply be gelled up. pull it into a warm garage if #1 and #2 check out good. if your ambient temp is above 40F you'll be fine with #2 but if there is a tank of biodiesel, all bets are off. depending upon what was put in and who made it, it could have a very high wax point.

#4 - crack the injector line loose at each injector and crank it. diesel should spray/weep out of each injector fitting.

#5 - if there's no fuel and it's warm out so you aren't gelled up, then your injection pump may have lost its prime. disconnect the fuel inlet, put a hose on it leading to a container with diesel in it and elevate above the level of the injection pump. crack the fittings loose at each injector and crank the engine until you see fuel come out the injector fittings. tighten them, hook your normal fuel line up and go!

-dan

[Alaskaberrys]

The glow plug mod Team WorldTour linked too above made a HUGE difference in starting my AAZ - and the old system was working, just not well enough under about 45˚f.

Changing the glow plugs was a pain, they loosened fine but the fuel lines were so seized onto the fuel pump I couldn't remove them to allow easier access. Still possible with ALOT of patience and a good ratcheting wrench. Clean the area up first and settle in with some good calming music

Like you, a local mechanic is not an option for me but there is an huge amount of info here and backed up by many very helpful, knowledgable folks that have helped me immensely.

Good luck!
_________________
'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[HBB]

Assuming you are in Belgium as indicated in your profile, it looks like the temperatures have been mild enough that gelling is almost certainly not the problem. For the same reason, I doubt that glowplugs are the problem: on a small displacement engine like this, you might have to crank it for 10 seconds or more, but I would expect it to to fire up at above-freezing temps even without functional glow plugs. My ALH fired at 10*F without a working glowplug system (long story); it took 10 seconds of cranking before it started sputtering, and another 5 seconds or so of cranking before it sounded like it was going to actually start, but it did start and run without much trouble.

As others have noted, there isn't really much to troubleshooting a no-start condition in these engines: you need air, fuel, and compression. You had enough compression and air to allow the engine to run previously, and there are few problems in these areas that could arise when the van is sitting, so you are most likely looking at a fuel issue.

Is there a clear section of fuel line anywhere between the tank and the injection pump? This is common on the more modern VW diesels, it allows you to see pretty easily whether there is air in the fuel system, which is a classic cause of the symptoms you've described. A small bubble, or trail of bubbles while cranking/running, is not unusual. A big bubble or stream of bubbles means you've got a leak somewhere that is allowing air in, which will result in a no-start condition.

If you don't have a clear section of fuel line, it's easy enough to crack an injector nut and look for fuel when cranking. Don't forget that you are dealing with a high pressure system: you can hurt yourself, so use some common sense and wear safety glasses and put a rag over the cracked injection nut.

Good luck!

Edit: Oops, I didn't read closely enough before posting. zuhandenheit already said all this, but more succinctly. Sorry for the redundant post!

[tomdevis]

I've found the (a) problem!
After removing an injector line I noticed there was no fuel (as most of you predicted). Don't worry I first only cranked the line.
However, I have no clear fuel line, so I could not check if there was air in the line. Would it be worth replacing it in the future?

I have yet to try and check on the Injection pump as DanHoug suggested but it's been around 2-4°C.

I disconnected the fuel line before the filter and found some dirt. So I believe it might be clogged and that there is dirt in the tank.

So I'm wondering on how to best clean it. Guessing to put a compressor on the fuel tank entrance and blowing it through the pipe till just before the filter?
But that might just blow some biggers chunks in the pipe that might stay stuck ? Also, this doesn't guarantee all the dirt to get out and waste a lot of diesel ?

[kaalualu]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569892&highlight=fuel+tank+flush
_________________
'84 Transporter 16" CLK's/LED's/ AT's/Mansi injectors
'86 Wolfey Weekender Westfalia AT's/otherwise stock
Sold-'82 TinTop Diesel

[Gnarlodious]

I had to drop my tank and clean it out. If you really need to drive you can blow backwards into the pipe and temporarily clear out the clogging but before long it will be clogged again. This happend during cold winter because diesel liquid get thicker in cold.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[tomdevis]

Thank you for the link, it was an interesting read and the temperatures should be rising next week, so I should be good. I also added some winter diesel in the tank so I believe it should stop clogging when mixed?

However I found some leaves, so I believe it might be some other dirt. Not sure how it got in there. I've added an image to clarify it.

[DanHoug]

i don't think true leaves could get by your filter, and would raise havoc with your injector nozzles if they did. it might be a ropey growth from sitting around a long time, diesel will grow biofilms in it.

once you are running, i would keep a strong diesel cleaner, something like this as available in the US:

https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

then periodic treatments with this:

https://powerservice.com/psp_product/clear-diesel-fuel-tank-cleaner/

keep a good supply of filters on hand once you start driving!

-dan