Best way to fix '65 Beetle Front Clip Panel

[keysas]

VW Beetle Body Experts:
I am doing a full body-off '65 beetle restoration and have reached a point where I need some external input. I've completed the pan, tranny, engine, suspension, wheels, brakes, etc. Now, on to the body. I'm pretty good on engine work, but have NO body work experience.
Here's the deal. This car apparently had a front-end collision sometime in the distant past, but was poorly repaired. The panel behind the spare tire is crumpled, the hood does not meet the front clip sides symmetrically, and the front panel on the clip was welded on crooked. Also, the fender mounting holes at the front of the car do not align. See photos below. I tried to take all photos on the cars centerline to see the asymmetries.
So here's my issue. I have asked multiple local shops about this repair. All of them declined to even look at the car because they either 1) work only with insurance companies on collision cases with newer vehicles or 2) only do full restorations. I am at the point now where I'm shopping for a good cutter and MIG welder. Someone stop me now if this is a bad idea! Or, give me pointers on how to work this. Thanks!!!

[keysas]

I should also add that I want to avoid trying to weld on an entire aftermarket clip. I understand the metalwork on the aftermarket clips is iffy and may not match the original and the gauge is thinner. My original clip is a bit crumpled in places, and the front panel is on crooked, but I believe I can cut away the front panel, preserving the side tabs, and likely get it welded on straight. Plus, there is no real rust problem with my car, just some surface rust that will blast away during the paint prep.

[theKbStockpiler]

Here are your choices:

1-Keep looking for an actual collision shop.
2-Do the work yourself. Collision shops and or welding shops want so much money that the car really can only be brought back with the labor of the owner. This option would be a BIG/SLOW involvement on your part.
3-Sell the car to someone that can fix it themselves and replace it with one that does not need body work.

I wish you good luck on whichever route you go!
_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.

[Q-Dog]

I think the front of your car is twisted ... pushed over from an impact to the corner. The direction of damage to the bumper overrider holes is a clue. I would have to see the quarter panels inside and out to determine if the metal can be pulled back or if it would be faster/cheaper to replace it.

You could try to find an original clip from a wreck.

If you aren't in a hurry some body shops will take on the project as something to keep the shop busy when regular work is slow. It could be a year or more before you get the car back.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[clarkster75]

I hope it works out for you.
Try to work backwards for a "good" shop. That is, contact some of the larger body supply houses (paint, etc.) for a shop that buys from them and is "nice" and will talk to you. Get a reference from them, if you can.
You will want to look for a shop with a frame straightener too. We have a local tech college (jr college) and they have classes at night. If you take the class, you can bring your car and the teacher will assist with pulling it straight. See if you have a body shop class too somewhere near by.
You can try to measure from a straight string line down the center of the car/front clip to see what is bent. Looks like your hood wasnt straight enough to judge what was bad on the clip.
But yes, you are in a pickle.
Maybe someone will chime in with some good info soon, too.

[marklee]

[Busstom]

[keysas]

Now that several of you have pointed out the evidence that the nose looks like it has suffered an "upper-cut" from the lower driver's side, I have to admit that I AGREE! Now that I am looking at the damage with that cause in mind, I am seeing other pieces of evidence in slightly crimped metal parts that supports this idea. Now, what to do about it...
I like the idea of finding a body shop class or shop with a frame straightener. It shouldn't take too much torque to bend it back. The issue is ensuring the "twist" doesn't propagate back behind the damaged clip area. I may have to remount the body on the pan to assist in holding the rest of the car in place.
Hey - THANKS AGAIN for all the pointers and tips and to Q-Dog for being the first to suggest the winning answer.

[Busstom]

Okay, I'm no expert, but I do have a similar experience under my belt, and I'm very happy with the results.
My subject was also a '65 Beetle, which was sandwiched in a rear-end accident, so it got some crumple on both ends (but no upward twist).
I agree with your thought: reattach - if only temporary - the body back to the pan. Not only for stiffness, but for a DIY job, it will give you the strong anchor points to which you will attach the pan to an external anchor for pulling from. Even plan to bolt the body at the top of the front suspension beam (right in front of the gas tank), as those are location/reference points that you don't want to lose.

Anchoring: to pull my front end back out, I chained the back of the car/pan to a Dodge van. Then, at the front, I attached one end of a come-along to the front bumper mounts (inside the spare tire well) using home-made bracket plates, and attached the other end of the come-along to a truck. For me, everything was in plane, that is to say, in-line with no sideward or upward pull, just pulling straight out.
From there, it's part science, part art form: identify where the body has been wrinkled, and to what shape/form/profile those surfaces need to be returned to.
It's a matter of applying a certain amount of tension, then hammering wrinkles out, then tensioning some more, then banging some more. You may need little-to-no outward pull, but instead downward push to get that twist out. I'm just giving you concepts to consider.

Without more pics, it looks to me like your quarter panels may be okay, and the hood looks like it may be a decent reference for realigning the quarter profiles. It looks like a major goal for you is to get that apron back down to horizontal, which means bringing the inner left quarter back down a bit. Personally, unless it's a disaster or rusted rotten, I'm always a proponent of straightening things before clipping things. I guess it depends on whether you're seeking perfection and the plans for the vehicle.

I suspect it could still stand to be pulled OUT some, which would help the downward effort, to some extent. You can find what various surface profiles should look like by searching this site and even Google images, which often leads you back to here, with better specific results to your search words. I like "theKbStockpiler" option 2, although it may not necessarily have to be so slow...just depends on how much effort you put into it. Also, there's an image floating around here that gives spans from point-to-point for returning these front-ends back to stock specs. To me, if your chosen fenders and hood line up nicely with your body, the bumper mounts up straight and horizontally, and the car looks good and straight, tight, then it's good enough for most situations.
My $0.02.

By the way, when I say "hammer," I mean also using dollies on the back side, using "bodywork" methodologies...not just hammering away. I'm sure you realize this, but researching some basic bodywork concepts and tools will steer you in the right direction.
Go here https://www.autobody101.com/forums/ for tons of good information. Much of your work isn't VW-specific.

[Q-Dog]

Sometimes I get one right.

With careful pulling and some metal work you may be able get it straight enough with minimal (or possibly no) cutting or welding. Take your time and don't let it beat you. Walk away when you get frustrated with it. Good luck.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[theKbStockpiler]

The apron should be somewhat easy. If the apron is bent down, the lip where it makes contact with the fender should be crumpled. The edge away from front should be crumpled/shrunk. If you hammer and dolly this cold it should force the panel back up but if too much force is needed it will just stretch it in a localized area and not move it back Anytime you work with metal it will always stretch some so you really need to be able to shrink it. If it takes too much force I would remove the panel , straighten it and then weld it back in.
_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.