62 Transaxle disassembly/inspection

[anthracitedub]

Alright, I have all the parts now.... I’ll start getting this put back together throughout the weeks to come.

Im gonna start with the main shaft assembly. I’ve alread discovered a small concern.

The slider hub I have is NOS, Brazil... it’s slightly different than the original.

My question is, which direction in the stack does the chamfer go? The cogs on the hub are dubbed over a little, one side a little more than the other. Does it really matter? The side with he most chamfer has a thin ring around the hub as well.

[mcmscott]

Line on the hub goes toward third, line on slider goes toward fourth. What no line on the slider??? The slider is back cut on all 4 sides so that part doesn't matter.
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[anthracitedub]

Yeah, I was looking the slider over... it appears to be the same either way.
I pressed the pinion bearing off today... thanks for the heads up on changing it to the tapered bearing. The original bearing leaves a bit to be desired.

I should be able to get the M/S put together tomorrow with no problems, I’ve been reading a little about the pinion shaft... I’m going to have to make a tool for the round nut to get that thing tight and there are a few things I’m not clear on, but I’m sure they’ll clear up as I move forward.

[[email protected]]

From your last pic on page 2, it looks like you have an early narrow 4mm 3/4 fork. The pics at the beginning of page 3 looks like your slider is a late 002 one for a wide late 5mm 3/4 fork.

[anthracitedub]

Well, I hope I have the right stuff. I have a new fork too and while it looks just like the early fork, it fits the new slider perfectly.

I’ll reveiw what I have when I get things around to reassemble... thanks for the heads up.

[anthracitedub]

Ok, got pix of the new slider vs the old...

Here are the forks, old original worn out and used replacement.

[mcmscott]

The replacement slider is 4mm. It is an oe replacement that has deeper engagement teeth much like that of a 002, it is correct and a nice upgrade.
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[anthracitedub]

Thank you sir, your knowledge is very appreciated.

I thought I was taking a step back there for a short moment.

[anthracitedub]

Alright, I’m checking out the assembly of the pinion shaft... I’m at a bit of a hang up because the elusive 1st gear synchro I have just doesn’t seem to have much life left in it.

I bought, what I thought was a decent used one ... I can measure about .030 on it. I don’t think I should use it, so I’m held up on that until I get a new one.

I’m having a hard time holding it flat to get a precise measurment, .030 was the average... I even check the ring to make sure it’s flat.

The other things I’m struggling with is getting the round nut tight.
I made a tool to be able to put a wrench on, but holding the other end is tough.

I clamped it with some thick rubber to protect it and got it real tight, but not where it needs to be. Does anyone have a home remedy for doing this?

I’m welcoming some advice/tips on this part, I’ve got a few other things I can do while trying to get a 247a synchro and put my rails/detents together.

The other area I’m concerned with is pressing the 4th gear on and getting the proper tension on the concave washer.

I changed the pinion bearing to the double taper and now I’m thinking that using the original shim set up won’t be spec.

I’ve read over the procedure in Bentley and have a vague understanding.
But with out the special tooling, I’m a bit unsure of a good at home procedure to continue on with.

Can I just press this gear on until it seats and check how things move and check for endplay/backlash... I just need tips on what to look for.

[Casting Timmy]

The Bentley sets the diff using measurements and math, the alternative is setting it with "grease" and looking at the pattern. I like to do both, set close with the book tooling and then double check and fine tune with the grease.

Start with the pinion shims you have, most of the variance comes from the gear set and not the case and bearing. If all the variance came from the case fork jigs would have to be set to the case depth.

On tighteneing the nut, most use an old 1-2 clutch hub or third gear to hold the shaft. You can make a home made tool, or grind a flat and hold the gear in a vise, or hold the clutch hub in a vise.

On 091's a beetle splined fourth works, so if you are going to get into it a bit that something to keep in the back of your mind.

I'd have to check notes as I don;t really do early boxes on setting the shims for the pinion shaft spacer. Weddle sells a HD one that doesn't need shimmed, I think I've used that once before. I've read one guy that does away with the shims and just puts two compression washers there. Also something sticks in my head about someone machining the ID on the compression washer for the end of the mainshaft for this location. I can't remember why they were doing that, maybe a gear conversion?

Shoptalkforums had a topic Bruce started about springs vs spacers on teh pinion shafts, be a good topic to search out on there for reading.

If you'll pay for shipping I have a 1-2 clutch hub with a burned face, perfect for turning into a pinion shaft tool. You might be able to make a similar tool to hook the splines of the pinion shaft yourself to hold it still though.

[mcmscott]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1643553.jpg

_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[anthracitedub]

While waiting for the last few parts, I decided to get things around and go over small details.

I found reverse shift rail was a little bent, a bent stud for the nose cone and some rust on the pinion needle bearings.

Here is the aluminum bus nose cone that I got because this trans is going in a 57... only a few more details before the build starts.


I also started cutting an old case to use as a jig for setting shift forks. It will also be used for starting some of my 40hp builds.

[mcmscott]

You have a package coming.
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[anthracitedub]

Awesome! Thanks. I’ll be moving along on assembly this weekend.

I’m sure a few questions will arise😐

[rodeking]

Great thread. I will be doing mine eventually on my pickup after I get the engine done. Today I'm cleaning up the engine bay and bell housing and I wiggle the input shaft and it has a good 1/4" up and down play at the end.

[mcmscott]

[anthracitedub]

Yes, the end of the input shaft actually gains support by the gland nut on your engines flywheel/crankshaft assembly.

[rodeking]

OK, I see it now, that input shaft is splined to the main shaft, that explains it. Carry on..

[anthracitedub]

Many thanks to Scott for helping me out with the last of the few parts I needed to get assembly on the way...one of which being the elusive 247a synchro.

No need to check the specs on this... clear to be seen that it is well within spec.

I have to swing by work to use the press to put the pinion assembly together.
Kinda th last place I want to be on my day off, but I was unable to press 4th gear on with my small press at home.

I was amazed at how easy everything came apart, just using an arbor press and an assortment of steel plate/tubing to support everything... still wish I had the VW 401 plate.

Should be some better updates in the days to come.

[mcmscott]

You can also heat parts to assemble, much like the crank gears in an engine. Glad you got the package!
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250