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tmart
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Joined: July 16, 2017
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Location: CA
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 Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 10:17 am Post subject: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Quick background: I've been rebuilding a 2.1 on a van I just bought. Upgraded to 2.2 using GW's piston/cyl kit, and put on some 1.25 ratio rockers. I'm getting to the final nuts and bolts of the ancillary components in the engine bay and should be ready to turn the key by this weekend if not earlier.
I've read up a good amount on the break in procedure for a new/rebuilt engine, but haven't seen much as far as what to do before. Here's what I was thinking and why:
Wire up spark plugs as normal, but leave distributor disconnected from coil so no spark. This way no ignition. (Alternatively I could leave out the spark plugs entirely for the time being and do a compression test but that'd be something I'd want to do with the rings seated right? - probably a dumb question)
Also, disconnect the fuel injectors from their wiring. This way I'm not needlessly spraying fuel that'll just pool in the intake tubes.
My reasoning behind these two things is so I can let the starter turn the crank->cam->oil pump and get oil throughout the engine. I have assembly lube in the cam bearings, crank bearings, lifter faces, cam lobes, pushrod ends (well, the lifter end is just vaseline), and between the valve adjuster and lash cap. I also slathered some oil on the rocker shaft. I figured I'd want to get the oiling system primed before I actually get any power out of the cylinders though. Is this correct thinking? Any better way to go about this?
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djkeev
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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tmart
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Joined: July 16, 2017
Posts: 176
Location: CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 11:03 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Sorry, old cam, new lifters.
I'm definitely going to be breaking it in, and following that procedure. Just trying to see if there is anything to worry about before I do the 20-min 2k rpm work hardening of the cam/lifters. I feel like running the crank in the bearing with just assembly lube and no oil pumping yet is sketchy, but I don't know a whole lot - I also don't really know how I'd get the oil in the lines first.
Also not sure if there's anything else to be concerned about before turning the key.
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djkeev
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hdenter
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Joined: October 14, 2008
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Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 11:27 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Just leave the injectors unplugged, it won't matter if the sparkplugs fire in dry cylinders. The ignition can be damaged by cranking the engine over with the wrong components disconnected. Better would be to leave the plugs out and ignition off and crank the engine over with a remote starter trigger/switch hooked up to the starter solenoid. It'll crank over easier and faster with no compression and no worries about fuel and spark. Good luck!
Hans
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Ahwahnee
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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I always do the initial crank with the plugs out so things do not have to work hard before oil pressure is achieved.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Great to have one on the dash - if not, I would at least hook up a test gauge for the initial run-up. Those seconds sure seem long when you're waiting for that needle to move. |
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tmart
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Location: CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:10 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Thanks for the tips all.
hdenter, a fellow San Luis Obispan! Maybe I've seen your van out and about.
ahwahnee, any hints on how/where I'd rig up the test gauge? As a side note, another addition I forgot to mention was a High Volume Oil Pump from GW.
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djkeev
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hdenter
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Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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I'm sure you have seen my work van. It's a brown '84 tintop, usually with a ladder on the roof. I'm all over SLO most days doing repairs. I have a remote starter trigger if you'd like to borrow it or some other tool you might need. Drop me a PM.
Hans
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tmart
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 9:48 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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PM'd.
Thanks for the input everyone. Getting excited to turn the key!
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Howesight
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 11:11 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Since your camshaft is new, the compromise between proper cam break in and ring break in is not an issue. The work-hardening of a new cam requires maintaining a moderate engine speed, (usually at no load for folks without a dyno), so that work-hardening is achieved quickly.
On the other hand, ring break in requires acceleration under load alternated with trailing throttle, repeated with increased load and increasing rpm. This is best achieved on a long incline. Applying the load is the key thing, but releasing the throttle to force a trailing throttle (where the Van is pushing the engine, throttle closed) is also critical for achieving the very best ring break-in. At a microscopic level, what is occurring is the peaks of the cross-hatched honing pattern on the cylinder wall are scrubbing against the new rings and perfecting the match of the ring edge to the cylinder wall. If no load is applied, then the rings tend to simply "bend over" the peaks in the honed surface. Those rough peaks are supposed to wear in the rings, but if insufficient pressure is applied, then the interaction between the ring edge and the peaks of the cross-hatching is dulled by bending over the sharp peaks. The bent-over peaks then are too dull and cannot cut the ring edge to perfect the ring-to-cylinder-wall fit.Think of sliding a sharp knife across a wooden cutting board at a 45 degree angle. If little pressure is applied, the knife edge is dulled. If more pressure is applied, the knife shaves the wood. Applying a load forces the rings against the cylinder wall as gas pressure acts against the back side of the rings.
Ring break-in is the single most critical part of break-in and will set the engine's future as an oil drinker with lots of blow-by, or as a well-sealed unit with very low oil consumption and very low blow-by.
The cam break-in versus ring break-in compromise is why all serious racing engine builders break in their engines on a dyno which can apply load, maintain rpm's at a good cam break-in speed, yet vary rpm and load to achieve an excellent ring seating.
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Aryana
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JEL91Westy
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| Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 8:40 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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About to break-in a rebuilt motor and just read multiple threads including the link in the previous post. I have the following questions: How long do I let it idle to warm up before seating the rings? Do I bother bleeding the coolant before the first run or just fill it the best I can with the front raised and using the go westy pump? Will be in a heated garage at startup, but it is obviously cold here, so what weight oil for break-in, and first couple thousand miles before going synthetic?
Thanks for the help.
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mikemtnbike
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| Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2022 5:46 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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If I were breaking in a new waterboxer, I'd look for the posts from tencentlife on how to do so. He had some stuff in his directions about something something that really made sense to me, and wasn't present in some of the others I saw.
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DanHoug
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| Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2022 7:36 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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| JEL91Westy wrote: |
How long do I let it idle to warm up before seating the rings? <snip> but it is obviously cold here, so what weight oil for break-in, and first couple thousand miles before going synthetic?
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if you have a new cam and lifters, you do not want to idle but immediately raise RPM to above 2000 for 20 minutes to splash lubricate the camshaft while its surface work hardens.
regardless of temp and viscosity, it is more important to use a true break-in oil such as Driven Racing BR30. make sure there is Vaseline in the gears of the oil pump for quick priming, pre-fill the oil filter and keep it loose until oil gushes out while cranking with the coil output grounded, then tighten it. pressurizing the oil galleries with a pump is also an option but make sure to prefill the filter as that will air lock due to the backflow valve.
for the continued life of your engine, more specifically your camshaft and lifter bottoms, look for an oil with high ZDDP content. these engines are a flat tappet vs roller design and require a oil with the high pressure additive ZDDP to lubricate the interface between the cam lobe and the flat tappet bottom. the Valvoline Racing Oils, VR1, is commonly available in different viscosities and has a very high ZDDP content. i'd use that for the first 2000 miles after dumping the break in oil at 500 miles. then you can switch to a synthetic with a nominal phosphorus and zinc level of 1200 and above.
or that's how i'll be doing it <grin>
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the joker
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| Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2022 7:44 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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shell 10 30 with lead compound added / crank it over for 20 sec cold no start/ fill oil filter pre install / run for 20 min filling coolant, medium rev/ shut it down
hour or so later after oil change , do it again (no cold crank) same oil routine run a little longer close eye on coolant
I've been running with 10 30 Valvoline conventional on a 10 yr rebuild , no issues strong engine low oil consumption, keep an eye for sales on conv oil recently found valo 5 qt jugs on clearance at autoz? this is no bulls#!@ 50 cents each there where 3 snap them up 
counter guy said they are clearing out conv oils? |
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JEL91Westy
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 7:55 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Thanks for the advice.
So SAE 30 or 20/50 break in oil? Does it matter?
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dobryan
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steve244
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tencentlife
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilt engine pre-break in procedure |
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Don't just stand there, make some coffee, shop-monkey!
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