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Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan alignment
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furgo
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:07 am    Post subject: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan alignment Reply with quote

I've read a few threads where advice was given not to separate the alternator pulley/cooling fan assembly on a Type 4 engine, but fewer explain what to do to restore balance once separated.

I'm not intending to separate them on my bus, but I'd like to restore my rusted pulley at some point. I've seen a few already sandblasted and powder-coated pulley/fan combos at very reasonable prices. The trouble is, many of them showed the two pieces separated already.

So first, fact checks:

• The pulley/fan assembly was balanced at the factory
• If disassembled and reassembled without further adjustment, the balance is lost
• An outbalanced assembly can cause excessive vibration, noise and decrease the life of bearings

Now to the questions:

• Are the statements above correct?
• If I don't have the tools/don't want to restore the balance of a pulley/fan assembly myself, can I take it to any machine shop for them to do it for me? Or is there something particular about the Type 4 fan that would require special ACVW knowledge or tools?
• I understand restoring the balance can be done without the pulley/fan assembly being installed in the motor, correct?
• Once correctly put together and balanced, is the balance of the full assembly when reinstalling it on the engine equally critical? And equally complex?
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Last edited by furgo on Thu Feb 08, 2018 6:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

furgo wrote:
I've read a few threads where advice was given not to separate the alternator pulley/cooling fan assembly on a Type 4 engine, but fewer explain what to do to restore balance once separated.

I'm not intending to separate them on my bus, but I'd like to restore my rusted pulley at some point. I've seen a few already sandblasted and powder-coated pulley/fan combos at very reasonable prices. The trouble is, many of them showed the two pieces separated already.

So first, fact checks:

• The pulley/fan assembly was balanced at the factory
• If disassembled and reassembled without further adjustment, the balance is lost
• An outbalanced assembly can cause excessive vibration, noise and decrease the life of bearings

Now to the questions:

• Are the statements above correct?
• If I don't have the tools/don't want to restore the balance of a pulley/fan assembly myself, can I take it to any machine shop for them to do it for me? Or is there something particular about the Type 4 fan that would require special ACVW knowledge or tools?
• I understand restoring the balance can be done without the pulley/fan assembly being installed in the motor, correct?
• Once correctly put together and balanced, is the balance of the full assembly when reinstalling it on the engine equally critical? And equally complex?


There are two important items:

1. Yes.....there can be balance issues.

2. Even if a fan is marked, disassembled and put back together with the balance weight in the correct orientation (if it had a balance weight.....not all of them do).....it will usually not have the steel pulley section correctly centralized/trued.
The wobble this causes can actually be worse and more damaging that being out of balance.

Also I have found that you need to mark the bolts, lock washers, flange washers and square nuts to get them back in the correct holes.

Laughing its hilarious that you ask this question TODAY. I am trying to get a build thread posted in the 411/412 forum between customer calls.....but 3 weeks ago....I stripped down and re-trued one of my fans that I bought for cheap that had already been disassembled and took a photo sequence and have not had time to post it. I will try to do that tomorrow or late today.

I found.....that the aluminum fin casting was .003" out of true with the crank hub....which is damn good. You need to find that out before you start truing....so you do not mistake that for the out of true of the pulley ring.

I will not get these out for balance for a few months but the truing how to should help some. Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:29 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

I read that you shouldn't take them apart after I took it apart. At least I had marked the alignment of both pieces before. I had no issues.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:35 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

I took one apart and put it back exactly how it was. The fan belt hopped all over the place because the fan ran untrue. One member here who had been thru it was kind enough to put it on a lathe, spin it with a dial indicator, and spend several hours truing it up as he tightened it. Another member powder coated it while it was apart. What came back was a beautiful true fan. The problem is that the parts can move off center by quite a bit. We've had this discussion on the Samba before. The conclusion was that VW used some kind of jig to assemble them. Unless you have a lathe or equal and too much time on your hands, don't take them apart or they will NOT run true. You'll drive the small main bearing and alternator bearings nuts with the hop of the fan belt. I repeat - do not allow your curiosity or over confidence to take one apart unless you have the facilities and patience to put it back in true again.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Another problem I’ve experienced, not a PO back this time. I took my fan apart to polish and paint prior to reading the warnings. I reassembled the exact way I took it apart. The fan bolts started to come loose and the ring part that holds the belt started to grind against the shroud. I don’t have a torque wrench and looks like I didn’t align the two parts well enough. Conemac, the builder of my engine reassembled it using a lathe or something. He didn’t want to do. He’s done a few in the past and found it to be time consuming, but did. Something about using a lathe or something. Conemac is a machine shop so I’m assuming you could take it to someone for reassembly. I think balance is important.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for the replies.

raygreenwood wrote:

There are two important items:

1. Yes.....there can be balance issues.

2. Even if a fan is marked, disassembled and put back together with the balance weight in the correct orientation (if it had a balance weight.....not all of them do).....it will usually not have the steel pulley section correctly centralized/trued.
The wobble this causes can actually be worse and more damaging that being out of balance.

Also I have found that you need to mark the bolts, lock washers, flange washers and square nuts to get them back in the correct holes.


Interesting, I had not considered them separately. I thought them being untrue was one of the causes for the unbalance.

raygreenwood wrote:
Laughing its hilarious that you ask this question TODAY. I am trying to get a build thread posted in the 411/412 forum between customer calls.....but 3 weeks ago....I stripped down and re-trued one of my fans that I bought for cheap that had already been disassembled and took a photo sequence and have not had time to post it. I will try to do that tomorrow or late today.


Oh, excellent, looking forward to seeing that! (whenever you've got the time)

SGKent wrote:
I took one apart and put it back exactly how it was. The fan belt hopped all over the place because the fan ran untrue. One member here who had been thru it was kind enough to put it on a lathe, spin it with a dial indicator, and spend several hours truing it up as he tightened it.


Ok. That answers my question that the truing/balancing is done without the motor (on a lathe).

SGKent wrote:
The problem is that the parts can move off center by quite a bit. We've had this discussion on the Samba before. The conclusion was that VW used some kind of jig to assemble them. Unless you have a lathe or equal and too much time on your hands, don't take them apart or they will NOT run true. You'll drive the small main bearing and alternator bearings nuts with the hop of the fan belt. I repeat - do not allow your curiosity or over confidence to take one apart unless you have the facilities and patience to put it back in true again.


Interesting to hear the reason why they go off balance too, thanks.

As I said, I'm not intending to separate them myself. I know better than ignoring the feedback of folks with decades of experience!

However, I'm more interested in what to do to fix it, if, against all advice someone separated them already. This could be, as mentioned in the initial post, a restored fan for sale that had the two pieces taken apart. Or me bringing my fan to a shop to get it powder coated it, instructing them verbally and on paper not to disassemble it, and them doing exactly the opposite. I've been there before (not with a fan, though, but I prefer knowing what's coming and how to fix it in advance).

What I'm getting from this is that any machine shop can fix the balance, but it might be expensive due to it being time consuming.

Any comments on why there rarely seems to be talk about balance issues with reinstalling the complete assembly on the engine? One would think that if the alignment of the two pieces is so critical, reinstalling the whole thing on the fan hub should be equally critical? (or not?)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Quote:
However, I'm more interested in what to do to fix it


set aside the time on a lathe with a dial indicator to get it true again. Be patient even if it takes you all day. The person who did mine said it was his last one - took him hours. From what he described, it is a tap slightly and tighten a little, tap again thing. You'll have to devise a V-block that rides smoothly in the belt area same as the belt so the depth is consistent as you work on it. And you will need a lathe or some other centering device that has zero run out. When that is done you will need to send it to a engine balancing shop to have it tested.

The last fan I restored, which is on my bus now, was easy. Glass beaded it assembled, filed the fins to get rid of burrs etc., washed it in an old dishwasher to make sure all the beads were gone, blew it dry, let it sit in an oven to be sure, cooled then painted the core aluminum. Waited a day and taped the core off with frog tape and painted the outside black. Had the balance checked - it was perfect from the factory, put it on and the belt runs true. Also painted the timing mark so it shows up clearly and also put a small paint mark at BDC for valve adjustments.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:48 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

You can do it without a lathe.

If I can get the pictures up....I will show you what I used. I used three 608ZZ ball bearings (technically an inline skate bearkng or skateboard bearing). Good ones are cheap. Most common bearings in the world.

Well...relatively cheap. Mine were rather pricey becuse they were spares for my inline racing skates.....and ran about $130 for a set of 16....but that is still not bad. You can buy adequate onezfor about $2-3 each at most bearing houses. Laughing

I mounted them at 120° apart on a 1.5" thick piece of MDO board. Two were on fixed holes on 5/16" axles. The third I drilled a slotted hole for. I put the crank hub in between the three bearings and tightened the slotted one. There was "0" measureable play.

Loosen the fan bolts and tighten them up a few inch pounds....and mount the dial indicator to a solid arm bolted to a plate on the board....not on a magnet stand.

Truing this fan took about 1 and 3/4 hour......and I will freely admit that I got lucky on a couple of my taps to adjust. I had one side of the fan overhanging the edge of the work bench so once I got it there....you can tighten the bolts enough to move the fan and tighten them all the way.

Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:53 am    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
You can do it without a lathe.

If I can get the pictures up....I will show you what I used. I used three 608ZZ ball bearings (technically an inline skate bearkng or skateboard bearing). Good ones are cheap. Most common bearings in the world.

Well...relatively cheap. Mine were rather pricey becuse they were spares for my inline racing skates.....and ran about $130 for a set of 16....but that is still not bad. You can buy adequate onezfor about $2-3 each at most bearing houses. Laughing

I mounted them at 120° apart on a 1.5" thick piece of MDO board. Two were on fixed holes on 5/16" axles. The third I drilled a slotted hole for. I put the crank hub in between the three bearings and tightened the slotted one. There was "0" measureable play.

Loosen the fan bolts and tighten them up a few inch pounds....and mount the dial indicator to a solid arm bolted to a plate on the board....not on a magnet stand.

Truing this fan took about 1 and 3/4 hour......and I will freely admit that I got lucky on a couple of my taps to adjust. I had one side of the fan overhanging the edge of the work bench so once I got it there....you can tighten the bolts enough to move the fan and tighten them all the way.

Ray


Ray - is there a way you can test that alignment from the center of the shaft bore to be sure the fan itself is concentric with the bore using some cones on a bar? I would assume it is but that could be a terrible assumption without checking them afterwards.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
You can do it without a lathe.

If I can get the pictures up....I will show you what I used. I used three 608ZZ ball bearings (technically an inline skate bearkng or skateboard bearing). Good ones are cheap. Most common bearings in the world.

Well...relatively cheap. Mine were rather pricey becuse they were spares for my inline racing skates.....and ran about $130 for a set of 16....but that is still not bad. You can buy adequate onezfor about $2-3 each at most bearing houses. Laughing

I mounted them at 120° apart on a 1.5" thick piece of MDO board. Two were on fixed holes on 5/16" axles. The third I drilled a slotted hole for. I put the crank hub in between the three bearings and tightened the slotted one. There was "0" measureable play.

Loosen the fan bolts and tighten them up a few inch pounds....and mount the dial indicator to a solid arm bolted to a plate on the board....not on a magnet stand.

Truing this fan took about 1 and 3/4 hour......and I will freely admit that I got lucky on a couple of my taps to adjust. I had one side of the fan overhanging the edge of the work bench so once I got it there....you can tighten the bolts enough to move the fan and tighten them all the way.

Ray


Ray - is there a way you can test that alignment from the center of the shaft bore to be sure the fan itself is concentric with the bore using some cones on a bar? I would assume it is but that could be a terrible assumption without checking them afterwards.


Yes....as I started doing this...setting it up...I actually stopped and stood there realizing that you really have three relationships that MUST be verified...or you can get lost.

1. The fan hub that bolts to the crank with the taper....I checked that alone in the bearings....by rotating and measuring against the seal area and I actually found it was NOT perfect....but so close enough that neither the bearings or the case seal could feel it. It manifests as an ever so slight drag between the bearings at one point.

By the gauge...it was out by .0002". I believe it was less than that by about .0001". I say that because the dial gauge I had at hand....was a Chinese...but decent .0005" per increment gauge. My good Starrett .0001" gauge was set up on something else at that moment.
The bearings I am using are ABEC class 7 Swiss type that have a radial tolerance of less than .0001".

Then I set up on the ledge of this hub up top that fits into the aluminum fan....and it was within the surface noise of the machine work...concentric to the seal race area...about .0001"-.0002".

2. The cast aluminum part of the fan itself...was then mounted on the hub. I was surprised out how little if any radial or axial play there was on the dowel pin and hub. Nil. But as noted....the machine work of the fan section....was out to one side by .003". Not bad.

3. The fit of the pulley section was the most problematic to measure. I did not want to measure from the flat flange edge or from the pulley lip as they could have any amount of dings over the years. So I measured from the center Vee section of the pulley...which has its issues. This is a welded and ground assembly from what I can tell....or rolled and formed possibly. There is some surface noise.

I think what you are asking...is....is there any way to make sure that the Morse taper that fits on teh crank....is machined concentric....right?

This is pure speculation on my part....but I can only assume that this part was cast roughly to shape...then machined for the taper on a mill. Then chucked up on a lathe with a taper live center to match the crankshaft...and on that lathe....the boss for the fan and the sea lip race were then machined while on the lathe...so if that was done....they should be concentric to the taper bore. I would then assume that before it left the lathe....a drill jig drilled and tapped the three bolt holes and the locating pin holes.

Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
You can do it without a lathe...

...I used three 608ZZ ball bearings...

Or an empty engine case with only the crank (and flywheel, ideally), installed, standing on end (with pulley sticking up, vertically).
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
You can do it without a lathe...

...I used three 608ZZ ball bearings...

Or an empty engine case with only the crank (and flywheel, ideally), installed, standing on end (with pulley sticking up, vertically).


Yes.....I worked on one some year back like that. Just had some old main bearings and grease in it. Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

my question is does the outer surface that is riding on your jig track true with the center 100%. What is needed also is a piece of greased aluminum or low friction plastic that rides in the V of the pulley, while something insures that the hub is 100% turning concentric on the center of the fan. The runout on your crank could even be a slightly bent crankshaft. The measurements on the runout gauge would follow that vee block. Yes - the outer rim and deep V are really unreliable as measuring surfaces.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

furgo wrote:
I'm more interested in what to do to fix it, if, against all advice someone separated them already.


Assemble fan/pulley correctly with all nuts, bolts, washers properly located. Loosen bolts and barely snug back up.

Clean hub mounting flange, spacer washer, and fan hub mounting area for best trueness.

Install fan. Torque bolts equally but don't bother going to final torque of 13 ft/lbs.

Observe gap between steel pulley perimeter and magnesium fan housing perimeter. If it is grossly off from one side to the other, tap pulley from contact side towards gap side. You don't have much movement, but we are trying to get to best available. If the pulley doesn't move at all, assume that the bolts might be too tight, remove fan, make bolts barely snug, reinstall.

Shift into 4th gear, no emergency brake, on the level. Get your rough visual center. Once you have done your best, find whatever feeler blade/stack best inserts between the pulley edge and the fan housing on both sides. Push car 180* of engine rotation. Re-check. If the tighter side moves over to the looser side, you can do another round of tapping. Once you have an equal feeler blade feel throughout the rotation, remove the fan and snug up the bolts carefully without disturbing the respective positions. If you can reduce radial runout at the fan-to-housing clearance, the rest is up to the pulley. I have seen axially wobbly pulleys that look terrible but the fan is balanced. Worth replacing anyway. I have seen almost perfect clearance trueness with a pulley groove that was horribly radially out. You could try to divide the runout of the pulley with the runout of the pulley edge in the fan housing, but I wouldn't spend the time . . . yet.
The balance tabs (little bits of steel wrapped under the lip of the pulley) do the finish balancing.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 4:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
my question is does the outer surface that is riding on your jig track true with the center 100%. What is needed also is a piece of greased aluminum or low friction plastic that rides in the V of the pulley, while something insures that the hub is 100% turning concentric on the center of the fan. The runout on your crank could even be a slightly bent crankshaft. The measurements on the runout gauge would follow that vee block. Yes - the outer rim and deep V are really unreliable as measuring surfaces.


Yes...I would say it tracks true if they did the machine work on the tapered live center.

Using a "rolling" jig or surface contact probe like you are thinking of on the valley of the "Vee" section is not 100% accurate.....at least not a single point probe. It will have to be a wide tangent contact to be able to actually "roll and measure". I have photos of what is in that valley. It has some surface variation either from the bending and forming of the Vee or from welding.

During measuring....to even reach the bottom of the Vee you need a very narrow probe on the dial indicator. The standard wheel probe will not work here . If you can find a vee shaped beveled probe for the indicator it would be ideal.

I had to make an extended probe out of a 4-48 gun screw.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 4:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Shit, I just took my fan apart when I was painting engine tin etc. Now I wish that I didnt....

Thanks Amskeptic for the rundown of what I need to do come reassembly time
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

Here is what I did. I've not had to realign it and never shead a belt. The more solid the construction of the jig the better.

Link:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538837&highlight=

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





if your completely apart, your staring place is an alignment of he timing mark to the dowel on the fan.

Now follow the advise here.[/img]
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

uups
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Restoring Type 4 pulley/fan balance Reply with quote

74westy wrote:
Here is what I did. I've not had to realign it and never shead a belt. The more solid the construction of the jig the better.

Link:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538837&highlight=

Craig

Nice. Seems so simple, and seems to have worked. I suspect the factory did something similar, perhaps using more automation. It's unlikely they performed some painstaking tedious task to accomplish this.
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