1st engine drop & doing some maintenance.

[ivwshane]

[SGKent]

replace the seal and O-ring. See if that slows or stops it.

The nosecone seal can be replaced. Usually while the nosecone is off one replaces the ball in the shifter mech and checks the relay lever bracket for cracking. Also if the main bearing is walking into the nosecone, which usually they do, then a steel plate is added.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[ivwshane]

[Tcash]

Does anyone have the specs for the Type 4 flywheels?
Like this one for a Porsche?

The machine shop should have the specs. If they don't. Get them for them.
They will inspect it and let you know what it needs.

only cutting the clutch surfaces, does not require end play adjustment.

Open the link I provided for the Diesel pilot bearing. Wilthings can explain his modification for you.

Now is the time to check end play. So if you need shims you can get them on order.
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+end+play+tool&a...ent=safari

Pull the transmission fill plug 17mm hex and stick your finger in there. Rub the gear oil between your fingers. Put a couple of drops on a clean white sheet of paper. Now pull the dipstick and message the oil off that and put a couple of drops next to the gear oil.
Which one is in the trans bellhousing?

The cam plug is that quarter size plug under the flywheel seal.

Good luck
Tcash

[ivwshane]

I'll need to buy the hex tool but I'll reply back with my findings.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[SGKent]

unless it is new the bell housing is never going to be 100% spotless. It should not be wet with oil however.

The mainshaft bearing has a halfmoon key that keeps it from turning on a 091. Regardless it moves a little and over time it wears into the soft nosecone. That allows the bearing and main shaft to move which throws gear mesh and adjustment out. The steel plate holds the main shaft bearing back in where it was before the nose cone wore in. The nose cone gets milled the thickness of the plate.

The area that is the big circle wears where the bearing touches it.

plate

you can see the spot for the halfmoon key in this photo. Large bearing at the top.

if that bearing and shaft move the gear mesh goes bad

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[ivwshane]

Thanks for the pics and explanation. Unfortunately that's way out of my comfort area.

As far as I could tell my transmission was great! I never had any problems with it and shifting was easy. I would rather not mess with it, I don't even feel comfortable opening the nose cone. If I ever did have problems though, I'd prefer to just buy a "new" one.
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[ivwshane]

[Tcash]

Specs should be in the Engine section under Specifications in the Bentley under Clutch or Flywheel.

Note the input shaft is the one the clutch disc slides on.
That would be the Input seal u need.

When in doubt use the terms listed in the Bentley Repair Manual. So we know what you are describing.

Or use this dictionary.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/dic/

Good luck
Tcash

[ivwshane]

So I took the nose cone off and it looks like the steel plate mod was already done.

Here are some pics before any clean up has been done. Does anyone see any issues or concerns?

Where am I, exactly, looking for cracks? Am I looking on the inner shift lever or the bracket for the selector link?

Also, how do I remove the ball from the selector link ball joint?

And lastly, are these the specs I would be giving to the machine shop?

_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[ivwshane]

I really hate that I can't change the title of threads (for updates).

Anyway. I did some powder coating the other day and I'm happy about how they turned out. I had a little trouble getting into some recesses but for the most part my parts look pretty good.


With regards to the nose cone; I took out the shift ball, it was still plastic and it looked like it was ever so slightly warn. I'll be replacing that with a metal one. I do have a question about selling this up though. Because it has the metal plate, does that mean I will need two gaskets, one for each side of the plate? The OP used some blue sealant all over it, luckily (or unluckily) it comes off pretty easy. What's the recommendation here?

While cleaning the new used fan housing I got, I spotted an area of the case that had its original coating still on it, I thought the gold color was interesting.

_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[ivwshane]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a place near Vacaville or Davis to resurface the flywheel and bore out the middle to fit the Diesel pilot bearing?

Also, does anyone have a part # or a link to the Diesel pilot bearing people recommend using?

Do I tell the shop to make the bearing sit flush?
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[SGKent]

[ivwshane]

[Tcash]

Using a Vanagon 056 105 313 C Diesel Pilot bearing in a Type 4
1981-1984 Diesel Vanagon Pilot Bearing 15 x 21 x 15mm
NATIONAL F85265 Needle Bearing;

Vw bus. Listings
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/shops/
Search
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/shops/search.php

[ivwshane]

So a little update:

I've got my new transmission, 99% of my parts powder coated, I've got all new nuts and bolts ordered or ready to go on. I've got an order for a new FI and alternator wiring harness on the way. I'm slowly replacing seals and gaskets. I'll be getting my flywheel machined within the week, hopefully.

I still need to replace all the shifter bushings. I still need to tackle the battery tray and I'm hoping I can tackle this job myself as I've never done any welding or serious metal work like what will be involved. After that I'll be replacing fuel hoses and getting my fuel injectors refurbished.

There is one part I am concerned about though and its my throttle body. Does this look bad?
(I have a light shining behind the plate to highlight any gaps)

I would love to have whip refurbish it but I don't see an ad from him offering his service to do it and the last I heard he was recovering from surgery and I don't want to bother him.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[ivwshane]

Any opinions on my throttle body?
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[ivwshane]

Is there a good way to test for oil leaks while the engine is on a stand before putting it back into the bus? I was thinking about pressurizing it with my air compressor. I don't know if I'll be able to seal it up enough though.
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[busdaddy]

That TB doesn't look good, but the worse that can happen is a high idle, luckily it's not something that requires a major dig to swap when you do find a rebuilder.

Air pressure isn't going to help much for an oil leak test, running it on a stand so it gets hot and makes it's own oil pressure might make something show up. But even then those PITA ones only appear after installation, due diligence when installing seals can save you from that most of the time but even the pros get an unpleasnt suprise now and then.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[ivwshane]

I'm actually having whip rebuild mine as we speak!! I should be getting it back within the week.

The reason for wanting to check for oil leaks (besides the obvious, looking for oil leaks), is that when I took apart this engine (not completely) I found most things were slathered in RTV and I'd like to avoid that if I can. I just don't have confidence in my ability to use RTV properly and more importantly, cleanly (unless you guys have some tips).

I cleaned all the mating surfaces and they look good with no pitting or anything.

I do plan on using RTV on the oil breather box but I'm concerned about the oil fill tube and the intake manifolds.

I'm also concerned about the pushrod tubes. I purchased new ones and powder coated them and used new seals but it just doesn't seem like the friction I felt between the tubes and walls would be enough to keep the oil from leaking (which was one of the sources of my leak before I dropped the engine). I did make sure the seals remained seated properly though when they were installed.
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab