Ethanol-Free or Premium?

[goober]

For what it's worth....

I have 87mm cylinders which puts me around 8 to 1 CR. I've used ethanol and ethanol-free gas.

I burn 10% ethanol mid-grade (89 octane) most of the time. I'll burn 10% ethanol premium (92 octane) when I'm on long trips ladened; sustaining highway speeds all day, under all conditions.

I seem to detect a little detonation when using ethanol regular (87 octane) when I push it. I haven't noticed any significant difference between 100% gas or the gas with 10% ethanol, in performance.

On long trips I may 'blend'. For example, the first tank in the morning I may use mid-grade if I'm expecting to see lighter conditions. If the weather and road conditions alter or toughen, the second tank will be premium. And vice versa.

[marty1835]

its not IF you are going to have a problem with ethanol its WHEN are you going to have a problem with ethanol. It is frustrating- talk to 10 people- 5 will say " i run ethanol in all my stuff for years and years. never a problem" We have 8 cars in my collection and was having a bitch of a time keeping them running about 6-7 years ago. Switched to strictly no-E and ALL problems went away as far as a no start or gummy fuel pump or carb. Additives will not work. I did a lot of research on how to combat E and the best thing is to NOT use it in the first place.

I tried to come up with a "drain" in the fuel line ( kind of like a fuel pump in an old Ford with the glass bowl) to capture the water as a vehicle had sat. I was close but never did get that final idea.

I am fortunate that in upstate NY no-E is fairly common now.
_________________
1915 Ford Model T
1946 Chevy Stylemaster
1950 Chrysler Limo
1952 Ford Mainline
1960 VW Dune Buggy (frame is a 1966- motor is 1970)
1966 Ford Wagon Country Sedan
1966 IH Tow Truck
1978 Jeep CJ7 V8

[Dwayne1m]

Find a local business that works on small engines, like lawn mowers, and talk face to face with the mechanics and ask them for their opinions of and experiences with ethanol.

[[email protected]]

If you can get by with the octane of the non-ethanol gas, run it. Local non-ethanol fuel isn't convienient, or high enough octane, and runs about $.75-$1.00 more a gallon for me. With the exception of running proper ethanol rated hose, customers of two local engine builders have erased any other issues associated with ethanol with either of these two products.

https://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/safeguard-ethanol-fuel-conditioner-with-stabilizers

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/http-www-driven...rgenthtml/

[Q-Dog]

[finster]

has anyone tried the kits to remove ethanol such as ethanil (http://www.ethanil.co.uk/) - do they work, especially for overwintering? as far as I know we don't have ethanol-free option in the UK.

[74 Thing]

You get better mileage with non ethanol gas, so if I had a choice I would know what my decision would be.

Unfortunately, I live in crap CA where the gov decides what you must run and the non ethanol stations are few and far in between

[bhartwell59]

Just saw this on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtCJS70sEf0
_________________
'74 Zambezi green Ghia vert, autostick, 101k
'87 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2, 330k

[HippyTom]

[bluebus86]

Regular use of a fuel dryer can help. It may seem counter intuitive to add a dryer, which is alcohol to fix the problem of water build up in fuel system by adding more alcohol. But the dryer is dewetted, a dried alcohol, which will suck up water that has fallen out of solution and settled in low spots. Once installed, drive the car so the water absorbed by the dryer alcohol is sent thru the engine.

This will not help with long term storage much, as over time the fuel dryer itself can pull water out of the air. but it can remove water that has built up from use of alcohol laden fuels. the alcohol fuels usually are full of water already when you buy the fuel, and continue to collect more in you tank, once saturated to a certain amount, the water laden alcohol drops out to the bottom of the tank, carb bowl, etc.. and corrosion happens rapidly.


for long term storage, if you can, fill tank with real gasoline, after running a dryer thru the prior tank full.

Good Luck, Bug On With Real Fuel!
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[marty1835]

Q-Dog!!! there it is- the " been using it forever--no troubles" I agree with you and am glad it has worked out! I cannot explain why some guys have zero issues while others ( like myself) had fuel pumps/lines/carbs/anything rubber just melt away.

Over the course of about 2 years I must have had 5-6 no starts because of rubber parts breaking down. Went strictly no-E ( $0.25 a gal more) and no more issues.

I am not looking for performance or to save a couple dollars. I just want stuff to start when I turn the key.

Thanks!
_________________
1915 Ford Model T
1946 Chevy Stylemaster
1950 Chrysler Limo
1952 Ford Mainline
1960 VW Dune Buggy (frame is a 1966- motor is 1970)
1966 Ford Wagon Country Sedan
1966 IH Tow Truck
1978 Jeep CJ7 V8

[Q-Dog]

Of course, we don't have humidity in South Louisiana.

I must have screwed something up ... My riding mower ran great for 2 hours on Monday after sitting since, I think maybe it was November? Started on the first crank. No engine problems on this engine, but I have replaced the rotted out deck, and some belts a few times, and some pulleys too. I can't explain it either. Sorry, I tried, but I can't blame the ethanol.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[baldessariclan]

I'd echo what a lot of other folks have relayed so far on this post -- main 2 points being:

1) I think that the "normal" unleaded gasoline sold at most US stations nowadays (i.e. w/ 10% ethanol content - or "E10"?) is generally ok in modern cars and other gasoline engines, if it is used up / changed out frequently. Letting it sit for long periods, however (e.g. winter storage, or similar) often seems to lead to problems w/ "gummed-up" carburetors / fuel systems, etc. Also can damage / cause problems with rubber components not formulated for use with alcohol mix fuels.

2) The 10% ethanol + 90% gasoline mix ("normal" unleaded) generally gets worse mileage than pure gasoline (due to ethanol having inherently lower energy content per unit volume, as compared to gasoline). The increase in mileage from using the 100% pure gasoline, however, still doesn't completely cover for its significantly higher cost (as compared to normal unleaded "E10" -- in my experience, anyway).

That said, nowadays I try to use the 100% pure gasoline ("ethanol free") in my VW, plus lawn care / chain saw / generator / etc. engines, but generally use the "normal" unleaded ("E10") in our modern, frequently driven cars.

[mikec4193]

No ethanol in any of internal combustion engines at my place...$3.15 yesterday at the pumps here in upstate NY...our stuff here is 91 octane too...does not even smell like the other gasoline they sell...

my 2 cents...

MikeC
_________________
Dad bought his first Beetle on Dec 17, 1953.

[Zundfolge1432]

Sound like some haven’t got the connection yet that different blends in different areas of the country produce different results. To make a blanket statement I’ve done it this way for years no problem is anecdotal to one region. Hardly ever mentioned is the condition known as phase separation, google that term. The real answer is find out what works in your region by networking with other users. Best of luck

[mukluk]

[[email protected]]

[bluebus86]

[marty1835]

Bluebus- thats a very good statement. What can you do if you are in a region that does not readily offer no-E? Storage is the issue. No-E starts to separate after as little as 6 weeks. If we are talking Bugs its pretty easy to suck out most of the fuel and run the carbs dry.

I think the best thing to do for storage is Stabil with a full tank and have a shut off near the tank to run the line,fuel pump and carb dry.
_________________
1915 Ford Model T
1946 Chevy Stylemaster
1950 Chrysler Limo
1952 Ford Mainline
1960 VW Dune Buggy (frame is a 1966- motor is 1970)
1966 Ford Wagon Country Sedan
1966 IH Tow Truck
1978 Jeep CJ7 V8

[Zundfolge1432]