DRD Engine Break in Sheet

[socalbasketcase]

Hey guys,

Do any of you have a Engine Break in Sheet from Darren at DRD racing you could share with me??

I had Darren from DRD build an engine for me a few years back (2180cc) and I am finally getting into some time where I am able to install it soon.

I cannot for the life of me find the Engine Break in Sheets that Darren provide me way back when.

This included basic but his own personalized info for getting this motor broke in properly as well as intervals and specs like oils preference, valve lash though I think it was to remain at zero etc..

Id really appreciate it if someone who may have this info could share it with me.

Take care.

-Tom

[socalbasketcase]

Not anyone at all? Maybe even some direction towards anyone who may have or knows Daren from DRD?

-Tom

[Danwvw]

It would be nice but if you can't find it no big deal. Check the Timing statically. Usually, start them and keep the RPM up around 2000 rpm for the first 15-20 minutes to polish up the cam. (Note! if the case heats up over 212' or a little bit more measuring it by the dipstick I would shut it down and let it cool before trying it again. (Maybe check the timing!)) This is a good time to check for gas and oil leaks and things that could come loose like exhaust nuts. Measure engine temps with an IR thermometer. Some change the oil and filter after that. I would check the valves & drive it, but change the oil and filter after the first tank of gas. Check the valves again. Set the timing dynamically.

Yeah, you should be able to see if it has steel pushrods by looking at them with just the valve cover off. The nice thing about zero lash is you don't need to mess with a feeler gauge. Just spin the pushrods in your fingers and adjust the tappets so you can get those pushrods to still spin but with just a little bit of friction on them. But if it's got aluminum pushrods then check your cam card. Probably.006" some are: .004" Intake and .006" Exhaust.

At some point probably this coming summer break in the rings by a good hard run on the highway. Mine "rings" didn't seat until I took my bus to the interstate on a 95' day.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[VW&MGman]

Hi Socalbasketcase,

I have the DRD Install and Cam Break in Instructions for an engine kit that I purchased from him 2 years ago.

How do you want me to send it to you?

[socalbasketcase]

Hey VW&MGman,

Thanks, I'm looking for the complete engine guide sheet he provided people but will take that for a start.

I'll pm you my email.

Thanks a Lot

-Tom

[woodsbuggy]

I have purchased quite a few parts from DRD over the years, the last purchase being February 2016. I finally got around to installing the L5 heads last fall and couldn't get my motor to run right, the valves were not sealing and the guides were leaking badly after 5 hours run time. I had the heads repaired by Brothers, they replaced all of the guides and all 4 intake valves as well as fixing the poorly cut seats. I would seriously consider a complete tear down and inspection before I even thought about break in. Darren used to do great work and was always happy to answer my questions and provide good info, not sure what happened but I have unfortunately learned to not trust his work.
Best of Luck
Kenric
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The empty can rattles the most!

[jason]

Probably why he is not doing it anymore. I have a set of his heads too. Stem height off and don’t look like they seal well. I will have to have seats gone over it looks like.

[socalbasketcase]

I don't have any personal complaints outside of timeline it took to complete build and the fact he is No longer in business. Issues like not being able to pick his brain or recover information kinda sucks.

I watched him bench run the motor. Ran clean and like a ape. Made 166hp and seemed to build throughout the entire band. I do have the dyno sheet still. She's gonna be fun. That's for sure.

[Glenn]

If it was run on a dyno, then he most likely broke in the cam.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[socalbasketcase]

Glenn,

He did, just initial break in and outlined the ins and outs of what to do for it coming up over the next few thousand direct from his experience.

Just hoping to recover his specific notes.

[Teeroy]

If he bench ran it and dynoed it, it has already been broke in.
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Glenn]

If assuming the cam is broken in, then you just need to seat the rings.

When i broke in my 2180, I did a oil change at 200, 500, 1000 and 3000 with a valve adjust at each change. After the 1000 the valves barely need to be touched. Now I go 3000 and maybe one or two need to be adjusted and just barely.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[clonebug]

I also had disappointing results with DRD heads.

Intake valves leaked so bad after 12,000 miles I had no measurable compression.

Here is a pic of the intakes due to blow by of the valves. They are as black as the exhaust ports. Quite disappointing.

Needless to say they are sitting on the shelf while my stock heads are put back into use.
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[fivelugshortaxle]

[socalbasketcase]

Here it is.

82x92 thickwall
1" 5/8 header A1 sidewinder
L5 40×35.5 heads by Darren
DRD 298 cam
1.1 rockers
9:1 cr
44 Spanish Webers
140 main jet
175 air corrector
36 vent
52 idle jet
air fuel ratio 12.7

Cheers

Tommy

[bugguy1967]

The DRD-specific break-in procedure isn't needed. He likely just used one based on someone else's, and maybe tweaked some details. They're all basically the same. You need to seat your rings. Some say drive it normal. Others say downshift often. Go up and down a lot of hills. Don't drive on the highway for extended periods. Don't lug it around. What I take from it all is your engine needs to see a lot of different load conditions. Also, adjust your valves often at the start. If chromoly, set them to a cold loose zero. If aluminum, use a setting close to the stock setting. I leave my Penn 30W break-in oil in for a few hundred miles. Then I swap to Brad Penn 10W-30. Use good filters, not Fram ones. That's it.

[Howard 111]

Years ago, one of the VW magazines had an article where they asked the top 10 VW engine builders 10 questions. And one was how to break in an engine. Every one had a different answer. There is no one way to do it, just go with how you would do it, what makes sense to you.
_________________
1973 Karmann Ghia
Turbocharged, Fuel Injected
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=531270

[pondervwmike]

160 hp on 1.1 rockers. Thats amazing. Do you have the specs on the cam?
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[socalbasketcase]

[socalbasketcase]