091/1 Side shift for Frank couple questions

[terryly]

Hi guys I posted this over at Shop Talk forums But thought it would be of interest over hear as well
Hello I have been wanting a 091/1 transaxle for my Baja bug off road car. Well I finally got one. Cleaned it up a little took some measurements.seems like it will fit physically. removed the 10* mount I had on the 002 that was in the car and tried to get it on the 091/1.. no go so started to remove bell housing to switch to the 002 bellhousing and wondered if it would go from the back side. Bingo with a small amount of clearancing it fit yahoo. Just have to alter the front urethane bushing. Any ways I was able to get a measurement for the shifter so that's real good. Apparently came out of a 1984 water boxer no model given. Seems real clean inside when I had the bellhousing off with only a little fuzz on the drain magnet

Here is a couple of questions I have if you could please.
1 where do I find the trans code on this case I cleaned the case up a little with a scraper and wire brush found some #s but don't think I have the code
2 Is there any maintenance improvements or useful inspections that can be done by disassembling/removing either the nose cone or bell housing ?
3 I have read these models may not need a jig for reassembly Is this true ?
4 It came with a stock hydraulic slave cylinder Are these stock ones any good ? You would think they should be pretty stout and smooth. I have a working jamar slave cylinder that was set up for the 002 would you use the stocker or the Jamar slave cylinder
5 I will need to vent this case to prevent water /mud intrusion where is the best place for a vent Vent higher than expected water level and put a loop in it ?
That,s all I can think of right now here is some pics
here is numbers i found I don't think they are the right ones for clues on gearing any one care to guess ?

pics of inside bellhousing

side x side with 002 its a good bit stouter

10* rear mount details

Here is the front mount that I will have to alter. All in all I am real happy with the ease it slipped in to the Baja

The bits that would not fit between the frame horns And new 930 conversion flanges

And finally the car its going into

Thanks for looking
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2180cc MS3PRO sequential fuel and spark 42mm IDF style Throttle boddies
Calgary Alberta Canada
Terry Lytle

[Vanapplebomb]

Biggest thing with those early transmissions is the 3/4 slider hub. There are three key ways in it. You may not notice if one is cracked, but once it goes the other two are not far behind, then you will not be able to shift between 3/4 nicely. Very common problem for those to fail. The later style was much better. I would say replacing the 3/4 slider and hub is a must do service item on that transmission before it grenades on you.

The other thing to be aware of is the forward mainshaft bearing. Over time they can pound out the bearing bore in the intermediate housing. You need to get a rebuilt/sleeved intermediate housing or a new aluminum aftermarket version if this happens. Having a loose bearing in there is not good. It’s hard to check if the fit is good, but easy to check if it is toast. Grab the input shaft and push/pull it in and out. If it moves in and out a bit on you, it is toasted. You will feel it clunk and see it move. It should be nice and tight with no in and out play.

Also, if your pinion gear has 6 teeth, keep an eye on the drain plug for shavings. The 4.83:1 ring and pinion wears fast on the pinion gear. A lot of them start putting by 80k miles. Although they can look bad, they surprisingly enough can run like that for a very long time, but keep An eye on it to be safe.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[terryly]

Hi Vanappebomb. Thanks for the insight when I drained trans fluid and removed the bellhousing it seemed very clean inside with no sludge in the bottom and very little fuzz on the magnet. Kinda surprised me a little for a scrap yard trans.
It was supposed to be a !80 000 km 1984 unknown history. It is a DU code so 4.86 gears ? Hoping in its life it was used gently and had good service. The input shaft seemed to have no in out play but I will be checking that again.
I have heard of this 3-4 slider hub weakness in these trans axles. ** Is this something that your average Handy guy can accomplish ?** I had heard these water boxer models do not need a "jig " to reassemble. Do you know if this is true ? ** I realize a person would need pick up or fabricate some tranny specific tools. Sure would be nice to be able to service and repair this myself to a point as issues do seem to reveal themselves rather quickly in a off road car
That reminds me wanting to add a vent got any tips ? my plan was to find the factory vent and see if it can be tapped for a NPT barb fitting add a flexible hose with a loop and hang it high.
Received the new cable shifter From "Cableshift" and was able to mess around with that. Nice product. the heim end and cam were assembled incorrectly and needed pushed out,flipped,pushed back in and re-peening. After that it all made sense. Also had to make a new slave cylinder bracket and tap a hole in the trans axle as well I welded up a clutch arm to suit from two arms. Here is some pics
** made a front mount

**clutch arm

** spring boss and stop were their. Thankfully because the water boxer slave does not use this spring.

**Slave bracket

** Cable shift trans side assembly

** View from inside car. I really am determined to keep running an Emergency brake as it is required for street tags and is oh so handy in the hills. I also want to run turning brakes for low speed turning and traction adder. The tail off it takes up more space than I would have liked SO... on top and angled it is It works real well up there very solid and comfortable ,seats work,usable E-brake and the turning brakes are real handy. This will probably get refined some

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2180cc MS3PRO sequential fuel and spark 42mm IDF style Throttle boddies
Calgary Alberta Canada
Terry Lytle

[Vanapplebomb]

You are correct. No need for a transmission jig because the forks are not adjustable. The 1-4 forks are riveted/welded to the shift rails. Reverse can be unbolted, but isn’t adjustable either. They are pretty simple, but still need a good press and special tools to set diff bearings, torque the pinion bearing, etc... but if your willing to invest, it can be a diy project.

Your my kind of guy. I like the DIY parts, like the front mount and the clutch arm. Good stuff.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[jsturtlebuggy]

My Manxter Dual Sport I built has had and 002, 091, 091/1 and now a 094 trans-axle in it.
The 094 trans that in it now is one that I built from a 091/1 that had a bad ring & pinion.
Bought a 5speed conversion kit from Weddle Engineering. I went with the mainshaft that has the 2nd gear 2.33 ratio instead of the 2.13. Yes 1st is a Dog leg shift like the early Porsche 5speeds.

Yes you need less tools to take one apart and build and no jig is needed.
The socket for the 80mm pinion nut is needed to remove the the trans section from the case. You build some of the tools.
Replacing the 3rd/4th gear hub is something you have to do. They are always crack.

On my own 091/1 and the 094 the filler plug is not in a good location when installing it between the frame horns on a Bug chassis. I drilled and tapped holes, one on the side and one one top for 3/8NPT plugs to be able to fill it and check the oil level.
Under the orange tape on the front top of the trans is a fitting I install for the breather
Here is some picture of mine.

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Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[jimmyhoffa]

Geez that is a good idea.

I rebuilt mine too with the weddle 3/4 hub, welded the relay link and the clutch cross shaft fingers, all new bearings and synchro rings, 4:86 R&p because my 4:83 was spalled, cro-mo pinion bearing nut ring, weddle mainshaft bearing retainer plate kit, but I didn't think to move the fill plug and it was a real doozey to fill with GL-4.

They are easy to rebuild. I use my hydraulic press about as often as I use my shower, which is once a day and I don't know if it's possible to get through the job without one or something similar.
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1974 Chenowth 2RL #1244 Street Legal
My other car isn't ridiculous.

[terryly]

Thanks guys. I was looking at the fill plug right between trans and frame horn
Was planning to fill before final install. Adding a fill and drain is a great idea I will do that ...Copy on the vent Thanks looking like the 3-4 slider is a must. Great reason to get a press. I have done my share of monkeying with a vice or bottle jack and various sizes of sockets and pipe So a press it is will look into it.

jsturtlebuggy
OK so I have had the bellhousing off and the and the cover at the front. Can/should I remove the next section/cover to drill & tap for a fill ? Maybe get a peek inside.
For the fill level check plug probably pick a accessible spot on the same plane as the original plug ?
pic of 091/1 and 002 I see you put the fill in the boss behind 2nd cover

Thanks Again guys really looking forward to this Could be a little slow at first as I may have too many irons in the fire. Tranny changeover and shifter, replacing the mag engine case with a new aluminum one with hoover mods and porsche piston squirters for a future turbo project. Also going to coil overs from torsion on the rear and coil over and 4" arms from the 2.5" arms I tore up {that's what brought the car into the shop for a winter makeover}On top of that I usually can only get to work on the actual car on the weekends. Any thing that can be carried into my little home workshop I can work on during the week.
Talk to you later
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2180cc MS3PRO sequential fuel and spark 42mm IDF style Throttle boddies
Calgary Alberta Canada
Terry Lytle

[jsturtlebuggy]

No you cannot remove the 2nd front part (gear carrier) until you remove the differential and the large pinion nut. Then you can push the the gear stacks out.

Here are pictures of some of the home made tools that my Dad made over 40 years ago and some of the tools I have to buy to work on transaxles.

These tools are made to loosen and tighten the side adjusters for the differential. As you can see it just flat stock cut to fit into the adjusters and the one uses bars to loosen and tighten the other is socket welded to the flat stock.

This is the large socket need to remove pinion nut. This socket is over 40 years old. Great quality back then.

This is the tool needed to remove the nut holding the pinion bearing on the pinion shaft.

A couple of crank handle made from old clutch disc.

The gear carrier along with the ball sleeve/guide that the shift rails ride in. They are known to crack and the balls falling out.

This is the stand I made to press the gear shafts out of the gear carrier. It is a copy of what is in the factory Vanagon shop manual.
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Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[gears]

Some excellent advise given here .. and thanks for the great pics, Terry .. I really like that cable shifter kit.

Yeah, the oil add hole is a PITA to get to. While our new intermediate housing will be overkill for most guys, it'll have a second oil-add hole on the opposite side (making it SO much easier to check oil level). Among other improvements will be an oiling inlet to supply cooled oil to mainshaft ball bearing & 4th gear. (pic of our half done housing):

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aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com