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Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light
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AlmostHeavenWV_VW Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
Look at your pullet closely - there may be a dimple where tdc is. Some have them and some don't. Most pulleys with filed notches are NOT at TDC. And as far as distributor choice, it depends on your carb. My 1200 big bore works awesome with an 019....


Pulley has the ATDC mark (5 degrees) and TDC dimple.( these are the marks which appear to be ~25deg BTDC at idle.)

I know the 019 isn't the best choice, but it works for now. Eventually I'll have my PICT34 throttle plate modified to work for SVDA and get me a 034 but that's a future thing.

As they say- if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Did you clip the number one spark plug wire? Maybe you tried setting after attaching to the number two wire. #1 is on the passenger side nearest the firewall.

Some timing lights have a 2 stroke and 4 stroke switch. Make sure you are on 4 stroke.

Good luck and post back.


This has bit me a few times. Clip it away from other wires (closer to the spark plug).
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
My TDC mark on the pulley alleges that my idle timing is something like 25degrees BTDC with the strobe timing light.

I doubt that's actually true.

Possible answers what in the world is up with that?

1600DP AK code engine- so far as I know it has never been rebuilt
Genuine Bosch 019 dizzy (I know it's not the ideal one)

More info on your distributor pls...
Point gap? or Dwell?
Last tune up?

Do you happen to have an advance timing light w/ adjustable settings? If so, make sure the adjustment is set to zero.

I'd guess your dwell/gap is way off. Readjust your point gap and then static set timing to 7.5BTDC just to get it running. Then use your timing light. The static timing should be the same as idle timing w/ vacuum hoses disconnected.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 3:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
I'd guess your dwell/gap is way off. Readjust your point gap and then static set timing to 7.5BTDC just to get it running. Then use your timing light. The static timing should be the same as idle timing w/ vacuum hoses disconnected.


Car is running. Very well, in fact. This is what perplexes me
ashman40 wrote:

More info on your distributor pls...
Point gap? or Dwell?
Last tune up?.

Bosch 019
Dwell I believe was about 45deg? (I'll need to hook up again to confirm all this and write my numbers down- I was just flabbergasted and it was after a long work shift)
Last tune up on the distributor was 'very recently' per the PO (he actually let the local Bug shop handle his mechanical works for him- and he showed me the sheet from the bug's last "check up" at the shop- all good)
No vac hoses to worry about.

ashman40 wrote:

Do you happen to have an advance timing light w/ adjustable settings? If so, make sure the adjustment is set to zero..


Timing light advance adjust was set at 0 to start (and the TDC dimple was to the left of the case split), then I checked it by using the adjustment until the TDC dimple lined up. Read at about 25deg advance when lined up.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 6:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Max advance should be between 28 and 32 degrees.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 6:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
Max advance should be between 28 and 32 degrees.
sorta kinda......I don't really worry about how much or setting any thing at oe specs as fuel has changed so much as well as parts&peices being changed & modified. tune the engine for best performance. if it detonates at 30 degrees with the fuel you are going to be using then set the total to 27, as for idle timing I like it high...12-16 degrees for cars with bigger cams in them.10-14 for stock cam stuff. recurve the dist to get what it needs. tune the carb for what it needs. then tune them togeathe.....as in don't just tune one than go to the other and tune it. there may be a little back&forth but when there both working togeather ...it works better, runs better, better mpg.happyer motor and driver. it dosent take much time to do it right, don't do it half way. if you don't have a good muffler/exhaust system get one.that also can change the tune as well as keep you from hearing whats making the noise you don't hear till you see the rod stuck through the case.....
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
andk5591 wrote:
Max advance should be between 28 and 32 degrees.
sorta kinda......I don't really worry about how much or setting any thing at oe specs as fuel has changed so much as well as parts&peices being changed & modified. tune the engine for best performance. if it detonates at 30 degrees with the fuel you are going to be using then set the total to 27, as for idle timing I like it high...12-16 degrees for cars with bigger cams in them.10-14 for stock cam stuff. recurve the dist to get what it needs. tune the carb for what it needs. then tune them togeathe.....as in don't just tune one than go to the other and tune it. there may be a little back&forth but when there both working togeather ...it works better, runs better, better mpg.happyer motor and driver. it dosent take much time to do it right, don't do it half way. if you don't have a good muffler/exhaust system get one.that also can change the tune as well as keep you from hearing whats making the noise you don't hear till you see the rod stuck through the case.....

Thank you for the discussion of max advance specs guys. I think you may have missed the discussion though:

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
My TDC mark on the pulley alleges that my idle timing is something like 25degrees BTDC with the strobe timing light.

I doubt that's actually true.

Possible answers what in the world is up with that?

1600DP AK code engine- so far as I know it has never been rebuilt
Genuine Bosch 019 dizzy (I know it's not the ideal one)

I'm baffled.

Anybody got any ideas?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Where is your static timing set?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:30 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Does the timing advance even further from 25BTDC if you raise the rpms above idle?


If you are suggesting that the engine cannot run with 25BTDC idle timing and that is why it can’t really be 25BTDC, this may not be a good basis for judging things are wrong. Many engines have a 15BTDC idle timing and a very limited mechanical advance. And an engine with 15-20BTDC idle timing will run VERY well indeed.

Have you already checked that your TDC mark is 90deg CW from the woodruff key slot on the ID of the pulley?
What happens if you rotate the distributor so your idle timing is around 7.5BTDC? Then rev the engine while you watch your timing. What is the total advance (idle + mechanical)? Does it exceed 28-32BTDC?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 3:53 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

I would try a different timing light
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:03 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

I just helped a friend with timing on my last desert trip. We have the same distributor (009) and both have degree pulleys. I went to time his car, clipped on #1 and it was showing me 20+Deg at idle. I ended up timing it by ear and driving it but I still have no idea why it was reading so far off. I even tried all the plug wires to be sure because on a 009 your plug wires are usually 90 deg out on the cap but his were in the stock location. Runs great but i still am lost with it.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 7:07 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
Does the timing advance even further from 25BTDC if you raise the rpms above idle?

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:

That is on the to-do list, I was fiddling around about 10pm with the light when I got home from work the day it got delivered- didn't do 'max advance'

Neighbors probably wouldn't have appreciated that 3500RPM Laughing


ashman40 wrote:

If you are suggesting that the engine cannot run with 25BTDC idle timing and that is why it can’t really be 25BTDC, this may not be a good basis for judging things are wrong. Many engines have a 15BTDC idle timing and a very limited mechanical advance. And an engine with 15-20BTDC idle timing will run VERY well indeed.

It's worth noting that I have an engine which hasn't been open since VW put it together and I have my strong doubts that such a low compression, "tame" cam and crank set up, old engine could tolerate such extreme idle advance.
I mean, I'm not suggesting that an engine can't run at idle with nearly max tolerated advance. I'm just saying that if it truly is that far advanced there would be likely be: starting issues, backfires, coughs, pinging, knocking, stumbling, poor running at lower RPMs, poor performance if on load at lower RPMs, etc.

There are seriously none of these signs of incorrect timing.

ashman40 wrote:

Have you already checked that your TDC mark is 90deg CW from the woodruff key slot on the ID of the pulley?


Will verify once I get over the the garage where I keep her.

ashman40 wrote:

What happens if you rotate the distributor so your idle timing is around 7.5BTDC? Then rev the engine while you watch your timing. What is the total advance (idle + mechanical)? Does it exceed 28-32BTDC?



Please don't take this the wrong way, but I'm not going to change where the distributor is set right now until I can verify that I have accurate timing marks. Something has to explain why the marks are so far off, and until I can say where TDC actually is, I'm leaving it as is. Once TDC is truly found then I can begin fiddling with the timing (if necessary although I feel this may end up being a palm-to-the-forehead-I'm-an-idiot situtation)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 7:08 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Slow 1200 wrote:
I would try a different timing light


Yeah, I've also considered that I'm unlucky enough to have gotten the bum timing light that didn't get caught in Quality Control at the factory.

I might stop at the FLAPS and do the loaner program thing.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:57 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Totally agree not to make adjustments until you verify what you have. TYPICALLY with a mechanical advance distributor, the idle timing will be between 5 and 12 degrees, with max (around 3000 RPMS or so) coming in between 28 and 32. So usually you will have an advance range of about 20 degrees. (019 per Glenn is 17 degrees) This is a generalization and vairies some from distributor to distributor. But this is fairly typical. I am assuming that your advance does increase with RPMs and you have a similar range.

I have never run into the dimple being off as far as you are experiencing. I use a basic timing light without the built in advance feature however.

Trying another light would be a good idea....Would suck to be chasing you tail because of a defective tool.....And yeah, if the timing was really what you are seeing, it wouldn't run for shit.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 10:50 am    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

even a bone stock motor higher idle timing would mainly make the rpm higher and smoother idle...I reckon if there was a issue ( crapo fuel,low battery,week starter, hot engine with hot carbon spots and more it may kick bock a bit, but it shouldent cause any other issues like the vw in heaven thinks. high idle timing rarely could cause pininging..but if the max timing is exceded for the load&rop, yes pining could occur.carb also plays a part in this. with this said there is no reason to set it too high....it can make tuning a bit different as well as rough idle and some carbs may not be able to idle down enough....thus set the timing for what is needed. most oe timing settings are more of a "EPA" thing to lower emissions....I kinda doubt there is more than 4 of these cars that could pass a current cars emissions spec...but the cleaner burning you can get it the better it will be.and us too Wink
also remember high idle timing will change the ex temps as well as raise the rpm witch may make the engine run on after turned off(diesel).and diesel is the reason why vw put the silonoid on the carbs.as well as many other manufacturs. there is no "perfect timing" for all engines. tune your engine for what it needs.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
Please don't take this the wrong way, but I'm not going to change where the distributor is set right now until I can verify that I have accurate timing marks....

No offense taken. That is a completely reasonable approach.

You mention having a crank pulley w/ a 5ATDC notch and a TDC dimple. So I'm assuming it looks like the lower pulley in this pic:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One simple thing you can do is check the timing statically using a 12v test lamp (not your strobe timing light). Clip the test lamp between the #1 (-) terminal of the ignition coil and a known good ground (I like the distributor hold down clamps). Turn the ignition ON and rotate the crank pulley CW until it approaches TDC. To be accurate you should also remove the distributor cap and check that the rotor is pointing to the location of the #1 plug wire on the cap. You want to find out where in the crank rotation does the test lamp go from OFF to ON. The point where the points OPEN is when the coil will fire. It will also be the point where the test lamp (wired as above) will turn ON.
If your test lamp is turning ON within a few deg of TDC then that is one more vote that your crank pulley is okay and your timing light or something else is suspect.
If the test lamp turns ON well before (or after) TDC then your timing or crank pulley really is OFF.


If you wish to further eliminate possible causes... disconnect the condenser and redo the above test. This leaves the points as the only path to ground and removes the condenser as a possible culprit. If the static timing changes you know it is bad. But just because the timing doesn't change doesn't exclude the condenser from suspicion. I would expect a bad condenser may not impact static timing but could significantly impact dynamic (engine running) timing. Checking that there is zero resistance between the condenser wire and the body of the condenser is a test that shows when a condenser is failed.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Ok boys and girls time for some information for the class to review:

I verified I was hooking up my strobe light correctly (Yep)
Checked to make sure I was in "4-cycle" mode (Yep.)
Even borrowed another timing light from the FLAPS and hooked that one up
No changes in results with the new light (therefore I assume both lights are functioning correctly)

Test Results:
Static timing: ~25deg BTDC
Dwell: 45degrees
Idle timing(@850-900RPM): 25deg BTDC (allegedly)
Max advance (@3500RPM)- 42deg BTDC (allegedly)
Bosch 019 Dist gave me full advance @ 17deg advance
Idle then returned to ~900RPM and I was again showing 25deg BTDC idle timing

Also:
ashman40 wrote:

If you wish to further eliminate possible causes... Checking that there is zero resistance between the condenser wire and the body of the condenser is a test that shows when a condenser is failed.

Checked the condenser per Ashman's advice (0.00 ohms of resistance through the condenser- so the condenser is good)

How the Car runs:
Starts right up when stone cold
Starts right up when engine and air is hot (90 deg air temps)
Idles smooth as butter
No "dieseling"
No RPM "surges"
No pings
No knocks
No backfires
No "stumbles"
Doesn't "cut out" at any time
No hesitatation in any RPM range/load combo
Pulls strong from standing (with minor "flat spot") all the way to 75MPH
Takes the WV hills like a champ
No overheating issues (I've got the "save my bug" dipstick ) So I run around 180-200deg oil temps by visual inspection of the thermostatic wire even on long highway runs (Assuming a linear ratio of rotation on the SMB dipstick wire)

Seeing as how all of that just checks out perfectly (aside from my weird pulley readings) I believe we may be looking at this issue:
Glenn wrote:
How about a picture of the pulley.
I bet you have the wrong pulley on the engine.

So today was not the day to pull the pulley off (sorry, not enough time today to get into that)
But, allow me to provide some pictures for the class:
First, allow me to bring a few items to light which I noticed today:
1) There aren't any "VW" stamps anywhere on this pulley (that I could find)
2) There are these strange "rounded teeth" on the inner edge of the rear flange of the pulley (maybe somone has an ID on the pulley from this?)
Okay, as they say: "Pics or it didn't happen!"

Roughly the position of static and idle timing:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pulley near TDC
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

"Rounded Teeth" markings on rear flange (approx 9o'clock)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

2 more pictures at various rotation points
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

EDIT: here's the 'ol Bosch 019
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I know the ultimate answer may come on the day I have time to take the pulley off, but any ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

Looks like a stock pulley, VW mark or no.

I'm starting to get a sneaking suspicion the crank pulley woodruff key is toast or completely missing.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:
Looks like a stock pulley, VW mark or no.

I'm starting to get a sneaking suspicion the crank pulley woodruff key is toast or completely missing.


Agree, but let us test and prove.

Almost, can you remove the number one spark plug and verify piston tdc?
Edit: You can use a wooden dowel 3 inches or so. Poke it in the spark plug hole and rotate the crank clockwise or counterclockwise, until the piston is at the very top of its stroke. Now, look at your crank pulley. Whatever is in line with the case split is the mark!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Help with timing marks/ idle timing with strobe timing light Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
Checked the condenser per Ashman's advice (0.00 ohms of resistance through the condenser- so the condenser is good)

Just to be clear, I stated above that zero resistance means the condenser is FAILED.
If you set your multi meter to read resistance and test the condenser wire with one probe and the body of the condenser with the other (do this disconnected from everything)... if you get a zero reading it means there is a short between the wire and the body of the condenser. This means the condenser has FAILED. When you first connect the condenser you may get a reading, but as the condenser is charged the resistance should increase to infinite. There is actually nothing physically connecting the wire to the body. If there is zero resistance it means the two are shorted together and the condenser has FAILED.


AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
So today was not the day to pull the pulley off (sorry, not enough time today to get into that)
<...>
I know the ultimate answer may come on the day I have time to take the pulley off, but any ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated!

I was going to say you don’t actually have to remove the pulley from the engine, but to be sure you need to remove the pulley to make sure there IS a woodruff key installed.


AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
There are these strange "rounded teeth" on the inner edge of the rear flange of the pulley (maybe somone has an ID on the pulley from this?)
"Rounded Teeth" markings on rear flange (approx 9o'clock)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Those are crimp marks. There is likely a balancing weight crimped under those bite marks. Some pulleys have them other don’t.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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