Barn Find Beetle-Need Help to Get it Running

[Starbucket]

Run a jumper wire from the positive post on battery to the positive terminal on the coil and try to start it, if still no spark remove the distributor cap and make sure the center contact to the rotor is still there, if it is clean (or replace) the points and set gap to 0.016".

[jrbuzz8]

Sorry my responses are so separated! Being at college, I don’t get home that often to the car like I want to. I didn’t get a chance to test the coil because it read 3.9 ohms. This is the new one I just installed, so obviously it isn’t any good either. Right? The company I bought it from is claiming that resistance is totally normal, but the manual says otherwise. It should read between 1.7-2.4 ohms, correct? Once I get a proper coil in it, I will test the spark of that coil. Unless this is the right one. I’m very confused by this, as I’m going by what the manual is saying, but the part I have is listed as a correct replacement for the original coil (it is a Bosch blue coil). Any advice will be appreciated and I’ll try to post some photos of the car soon!

[hotsam]

Sounds silly but....

Go on YouTube and watch a couple of Cold Start videos by Mustie1. His videos will show you everything that needs to be looked at.
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1968 Beetle

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Chris Vallone:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUpjjKUh670
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[sb001]

[Starbucket]

If you did my test you would know if your ign. switch is bad or as said above seat belt interlock but you have to start testing not replacing.

[jrbuzz8]

Alright awesome. I will be watching those videos. When turning the key, there is a single clicking sound (which I’m assuming is the starter being engaged) and then nothing. When testing the coil, we saw that 12 volts did reach the coil when the ignition switch was engaged, but there was no cranking happening. I will be checking into the seat belt relay (where exactly is that relay located?) and checking and testing the distributor, as well. We will see what happens.

[Eric&Barb]

That click should be the starter solenoid trying to lever the starter gear into the FW gear. Once that gear is fully engaged into the FW gear at the end of that thrust, the solenoid has a set of contacts inside it. So when the contacts connect in the solenoid the starter motor is turned on.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Starbucket]

Clean the negative battery cable at its ground bolt on body and make sure the trans. to body ground strap is clean where it mounts. Check the voltage at the solenoid when you try to start (wheels blocked, e-brake on, and in neutral) for 12 v.

[jrbuzz8]

Okay I’ve made some more progress on the car. I can fully confirm that the electrics are all working. The distributor works and the plugs are sparking, as it now will “pop” and fire when the starter is activated through the ignition switch (however this switch has a bad connection somewhere and needs to be toggled with to work). Obviously there’s a fuel delivery problem and I believe it is due to the vacuum advance that is attached to the distributor. After opening the distributor and watching it turn in the “starting” position, it showed sparks, but the arm to the vacuum advance did not move. There is no airflow from this unit, which is attached to the carburetor and I’m assuming it’s supposed to bring fuel into the carb from the fuel line. The fuel pump is working great and fuel is going up the line to the carburetor, but it’s not really making it into the bowl. The needle is also good and open. What can I do about the vacuum advance module on the distributor?

[Eric&Barb]

Vacuum advance is not going to work till engine is running. Try filling the carb float chamber and see if it will run. You can cut up an plastic fuel filter into a fuel proof funnel to pour fuel into the carb without taking off the top.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[mukluk]

[jrbuzz8]

That’s definitely good to know. I did attempt to fill the bowl and all I got was a leaking accelerator pump on the carburetor. The gas is making it out of the bowl and into the pump, but instead of going anywhere else, it just drips out of one of the corners. I’ll have to pull it and make sure the seal is seated properly.

[mukluk]

Gas will only come out of the accelerator pump when you move the throttle arm and only while it is in motion at that. The accelerator pump is also a variable displacement type in that the speed that you move the throttle arm will alter how much fuel it delivers -- fast movement delivers the most fuel while it is possible to have no fuel whatsoever come out if you move the throttle arm slow enough. Since fuel is only delivered by the accelerator pump when the throttle arm is moving, it does not play a role in normal engine idle operation (pumping the pedal to keep it running isn't normal operation).

So if you now have fuel in the carb float bowl but the car won't run unless you spray starter fluid or dribble gas down the carb throat, your problem lies in the idle circuit. Most often the problem with a car that has sat for a long period of time is the fuel in the idle jet and circuit passages will turn to varnish or gum up, resulting in a blockage -- the only way to clear them out is to soak or flush them with solvent and blow them out with compressed air. Other possible blockages for the idle circuit are an inoperative shutoff solenoid on carbs so equipped, or a plugged main jet on the 30PIC(T) series carbs.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[jrbuzz8]

Alright, good news: I’m home from school for the summer and the carburetor is spraying a clean stream of fuel into the intake when the accelerator is depressed. The bad news is that the car still refuses to start. I’m pretty much out of reasons as to why this is, but I’m sure you guys might know why it still won’t run. It’ll pop and sputter, but it will not start and run. What’s my next plan of attack?

[Eric&Barb]

[Eric&Barb]

[ach60]

Fuel - Air - Spark, you need all three
That being said, the starter has to turn the engine over fast enough to build compression.
If the Air cleaner is off, then you have air.
If you have gas from the accelerator pump, then you have fuel.
Spark has to happen, and it has to happen at the correct time.
On cars that have sat a while(years) I like to shoot them with starting fluid,
and see if they POP.
No POP means you got no spark.
Remove spark plugs, clean and gap to .028".
Un-clip distributor cap, inspect and clean the distributor cap, and rotor.
Turn the key onto the run position.
Check for 12 volts to coil
With the car out of gear turn the motor over by hand, and be sure the points are opening, and closing.
You can adjust the points so the point gap is .016"
You can check the static timing using a test light, and adjust if required.
IF your distributor has a vacuum can with 2 vacuum line coming out,
Then the timing notch on the stock pulley is 5 degrees after TDC.
That kind of sucks for static timing, but you'll see the notch for 5 degrees after top dead center, and a wider grind mark for TDC.
You can approximate from there where 7.5 degrees Before TDC is and mark the pulley.
Static time setting can be 5 to 7 degrees Before TDC, and the engine should start, or at least POP.
This video shows a guy static timing a 009, but you'll get the basics.

Link

Once you have Fuel, Air and set your static timing correctly, the engine if turned fast enough, it will start.
A shot of starting fluid will help a slowly turning engine to start.
Here is a Cold Start video of a car that sat for 21 years.

Link

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Good Luck
Al

[Cusser]

[jrbuzz8]

Alright it’s really close now! IT STARTED! Now it just needs continuous fuel coming from the carb, as I don’t think the bowl is filled, or anywhere near filled, yet. Some gas is being sprayed through the main jet into the intake, but not a continuous stream yet. So, I think I’ve got that figured out. The ignition switch isn’t working, though. Through this whole thing, I’ve had to toggle the wires into a “perfect” position while holding the key in the “start” position to get the starter going. So, I’m replacing the ignition switch, but I’m not sure what size socket I need to get the steering wheel off. Is it a 24mm or 27mm? Thanks for all the help so far, you guys have been great!