Compression test results

[IOSilver]

Had a compression test done on my '85 Westfalia (9.1) & the results are: 100 100 100 110

Are these numbers poor & indicative of an engine on it's last leg?
No idea how many miles on the rebuilt as the odometer doesn't work but I'm guessing at least 75k.

(Disclaimer. I'm not mechanically inclined. Trying to decide if I should keep or sell the Westy. I've owned it many years & have been keeping it lubed/tuned/running to the best of my ability since my hubby passed away in '09 but it will need more repairs, new tires, etc if I decide to hold onto it. I do like camping in it.
It has it's share of issues but runs & passes all smog tests. Having issue with flickering oil pressure light at idle after it warms up that last mechanic was unable to diagnose. I plan to take it to a different Vanagon mechanic soon for diagnostics but wanted to run these numbers by you guys to see what you think first. (If the engine's near shot I may not bother..


Thanks for any input..

[jimf909]

The good news is the numbers are all about the same. That’s 1/2 the battle, I.e. there isn’t one cylinder at 50% of he others.

The bad news is that they’re relatively low. This could be due to a number of factors in how the test was conducted.

The weird things about Vanagons is that a flickering oil pressure light can mean many things sch as the engine is near death or there’s any number of electrical gremlins.

Your options are several: drive t til it pukes; take it to a competent diagnostician who can run a good compression test, oil pressure test, cooling system leak down test, etc.

Thats a start.

Enjoy!
_________________
- Jim

[?Waldo?]

Yes, those are low but they are all grouped together which is good. There are quite a few reasons why the compression readings could be low. One reason could be that the mechanic did the compression test when the engine was cold. Another reason could be that the battery was low or starter doesn't crank very fast. Another could be that the mechanic did not follow the proper procedure of having all spark plugs removed and the throttle floored while cranking. Another could be an issue with the compression tester the mechanic was using. How many miles on the engine? How well do you trust your mechanic? These are now very sought after vehicles. Any chance he's feeding you a line of BS (claiming falsely low compression) in hopes of getting your Westy for cheap because 'it needs an engine'?

Flickering oil light at idle could also be an indication of a tired engine OR the wrong oil (too light of a weight).

[IOSilver]

So many questions/gremlins, so little $$, lol

I don't know how many miles are on the engine. We bought it around 2000 & the previous (original) owner had put a rebuilt in it but never set back the odometer -which apparently doesn't work anyway. I'm guessing at least 75k.

There are so many things great & small which could be wrong -this much I know but I like the van & am willing to research some more to make an informed decision to Keep or sell (I do get lots of offers on it)

In fact, I spent 2+ hrs reading the forums here before posting this.
eg: Looks like changing my oil to Castrol 20W-50 & a new oil filter 'could' resolve the oil pressure light problem. Its worth a try..
It's not leaking oil, not overheating & runs fairly strong after it gains momentum, lol.

No, don't really trust my last mechanic. He had a bad bedside manner & scolded me for the laundry list of symptoms I gave him when I took the van in & told me to bring it back once I had specifics on what was wrong. He also suggested I sell it because I'm "scared of it" (true enough, lol

I really think my best bet is to take it to the closest mechanic Roadhaus suggests: Siegfried's & let them thoroughly inspect it & give me a quote. They're pricey but if I really want to know the condition it's in & what exactly it needs I think that's my best option.

Thanks very much for your replies & your help.

[Vanagon Nut]

[IOSilver]

No, the flickering was there BEFORE I took it to the last mechanic for a check-up & a tune-up. He said it could be nothing serious like a simple dashboard anomaly or it could be something much more serious (gee, thx)
I also mentioned the idle surges until it warms up & he had no clue what that might be, but I read here in the forum that it could be the ECU trying to compensate for a serious problem by intermittently feeding it more gas.
Or, it could be a timing issue.. or, or or... lol, sigh

Siegfried's will figure it out. I really don't think there's a better mechanic in town. If Roadhaus recommends them they must be the goto place for Vanagons.

Thanks for your help

[Vanagon Nut]

[IOSilver]

FYI
I DID also previously have a problem with my coolant light blinking non-stop.
Bugformance said it was a short on the foil in the dashboard.

I followed a suggestion someone else posted on this forum:
Turn the ignition key to on (light will blink), wait a few seconds before cranking the engine & see if it stops blinking. It worked & I haven't had that problem since.. (Weird!) That was certainly a lot cheaper than the $250 Bugformance wanted to pull the dash & repair the foil, lol

[IOSilver]

Thanks Vanagon Nut,

Yes, oil pressure test is on my list..
I'll post the results after Siegfried's has a go at it..

[RicoS]

[IOSilver]

I rely on mechanics to work on the Vanagon.
The compression test was done at a repair shop so I don't know.

Thanks for your help

[IOSilver]

In conclusion (for now, lol:

Well I took the Westy into Siegfried's & they performed diagnostics which included another compression test.
This time the results came out a lot better:
NR1-127
NR2-132
NR3-125
NR4-130
According to the lead mechanic, these numbers are really good for the old girl.
Of course with a non-working odometer, nobody knows how many miles it has.

Regarding the flickering oil pressure light when idling: Caused by an anomaly in the dashboard foil.

Timing is spot-on perfect.

Bad news -& you can bet I was expecting some:
Rear brake shoes were way out of adjustment - Removed & reinstalled drums, adjusted/lubed.
Water pump starting to leak - Replaced the water pump, thermostat, water temp sensor.
Coolant expansion tank cap wouldn't hold pressure -Replaced cap, coolant & bled the system.
Fuel lines rigid & cracking in the engine compartment. -Replaced engine compartment fuel hose except for firewall fuel adapter (old plastic adapter is still there. I'm worried about it causing a fire!) Mechanic says he'll replace it for $115 if I can find/purchase a replacement -Am looking for the part.
Also did not replace the 4 short hoses on the fuel injectors. He didn't want to touch them because was sure injectors would then begin to leak & need replacing too as they are old. Not leaking now so leave them alone unless I want to replace injectors + hoses pre-assembled for about $500.
Needed new alternator & power steering belts -Replaced
Needs new tires all around (but I already knew that)

Minus tires, this all set me back about $1,150 but at least I have found good/knowledgeable mechanics & am making progress..
Mechanic warned that I shouldn't go on any distant camping trips without a mechanic in tow because, while everything is holding up for now it's just a matter of time before something breaks as most of the parts are way old on this thing. All may seem fine around town but on a long, tiring trip, watch it go to pieces. Suggested I sell & buy something newer/reliable to go camping in. If not, don't stress it out in the summer heat because it's not up to the task.

Maybe he's right, maybe I should sell it.
Problem is, I can't seem to get over my affection for it (even though it won't be happy until I'm penniless & living in it full time, lol

Thx for all the help & advice.
Much appreciated
Cyndi

[Love My Westy]

Being Cool--Priceless

[E1]

I really hope you can get a few things fixed and keep it, Cyndi.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Vanagon Nut]

[SyncroChrick]

replace the plastic part in the firewall asap. these can break. you don't need to find the same exact part, you can just use a fuel hose and a grommet through the wall.

same for the injector section, these should be replaced too.


sounds to me like you have a good van, keep it and enjoy

[IOSilver]

Thanks for all the advice & encouragement..

I'm not sure why the mechanic didn't want to replace ALL the fuel lines. I was hoping he'd get the GoWesty kit & do everything it recommends but he went a different route.
He did inform me before starting that he would ONLY be replacing the engine fuel lines. I assumed at the time he meant everything except the solid plastic fuel lines. Only when I went to pick it up did I learn that wasn't the case.
He said the lines father away from the engine, while stiff are not bad as they haven't been subjected to the intense heat. He also said he used 30R9 equivalent replacement hose on the ones he did replace.
I expressed that my biggest concern is fire safety & the plastic firewall adapter really worries me. GoWesty recommends replacing it with a double flanged grommet they supply due to the high risk of engine fires. He offered to replace the firewall adapter for $115 if I find/purchase another one.

I see a metal firewall adaptor at VanCafe but they are currently out of stock.
What are some of the other vendors you mentioned who sell these?
Could you possibly supply a link where I might order one?
Thanks very much!

Once I find the firewall adapter & get it to him I'll ask him again about replacing the 4 short hoses on the injectors. For some reason he seems adamant about not touching them unless I buy a set of 4 new injectors with hoses already attached, but added, it would be very expensive -nearly $500. & while the injectors are very old & the short hoses on them are a bit stiff, everything is working fine right now & there are no leaks.
I also asked him about the brake lines & he said he inspected those & they all look good.

You guys have encouraged me to keep going..
Next: continue fuel line replace til I feel safe... new tires & then.. Camping? (One can dream.. lol

& yes, I do have a towing package. I'll work on getting a cell phone..

You guys are awesome
Thanks for all your help!
Cyndi

[djkeev]

There is a member here, DAIZEE. She bought an old Van which had a lot of troubles.
She perservered, she learned mechanics, she poured her soul into that old Van!

She had a blast, kept us updated and became a very much loved (or loathed) member here.

An old Van rarely stopped her from going anywhere!

Sadly, she had some health issues develop and she had to let it go.

Read her threads, be encouraged on what a person can accomplish on their own!

Here is her profile, get a big cup of coffee and some night sit by the fire, read and get encouraged by her story........ and have a good laugh too!

I miss DAIZEE........... (I miss TK too ) TK was DAIZEE's arch nemesis in the story.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=211961


Dave
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[Wildthings]

Replacing the fire wall adapter takes all of fifteen minutes to replace. The idea that a mechanic that didn't change it out to start with would now want an hours pay to replace it seems a bit beyond the pale. If you have your injectors rebuilt they should come back with new hoses. Pulling the injectors and reinstalling them isn't a big job.

For a mechanic to replace the injector hoses shouldn't be a big deal either, maybe 1 - 1.5 hours of shop time and about $20 in materials.

As far as compression tests, if the engine runs well and doesn't use excessive amounts of oil then don't worry about the numbers. My ratty 83 1/2 had zero compression when I bought it and the battery was so dead you couldn't hear the starter engage, but somehow it would start and run. I got 75K out of the engine before it died of an unrelated cause.

One thing I did on my 83 1/2 was to install a metal Expansion (pressure) tank and then replace the 15 psi cap with a 4-7 psi cap. This takes a lot of the strain off of other old parts of the cooling system. I also run a 75°C fan switch which causes the fan to come on sooner and more frequently, this too takes some of the stress off the cooling system.

Note that I am about to replace all my hoses on my 83 1/2 for the second time during my ownership, the first time was 14'ish years ago when I first bought it. I don't keep detailed records of my ownership cost, but as a guess I would say that for parts (excluding tires) it has cost me maybe $7000 over my fourteen year ownership or about $500 per year, and my van is now in much better shape than when I first bought it.

[Wildthings]