Restoring Engine Tin

[DadaCheese]

Yep, did a search, but either;
A) my search skills/terms suck, or,
B) I'm not patient enough to read through threads that look unrelated, or lastly,
C) there just isn't a good thread on this subject which brings all the best information/expertise, mistakes and successes together in one place.

SO; please feel free to link to other threads, but my basic question is this:

If you have half-way decent engine tin (fan shroud, deflector tin, aprons, etc.), but you want then to look good and correct, what are the tried and true methods?

Do you have them media-blasted, or might that potentially cause damage?
Do you just keep the "patina" look even if they are rusty?
...and then to make them look good, what paint (some kind of high-temp. paint?) do you use, do you need to primer first, etc. ect. ?!?!???

What would be wonderful for folks like me who, with new (to us) projects on our buses had some pretty clear steps/explanations.

Hopefully later this year I'll tearing my engine's peripherals off to address a blocked heat-riser.
I figure I might as well make the tin pretty while I'm at it.

THANK YOU in advance to anyone who wants to start up a thread of instructions on this subject (or links if it's already posted well elsewhere).
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[Eric&Barb]

KISS by just doing a search for "Engine tin". Check the "Search title only (Recommended, faster)" box there to keep down too many results. Tried letting it search all the forums at once. That got like 30 pages of results, too many. So tried just the Split Bus forum, with no real winners showing by reading just the titles. Then tried the "Beetle-1958-67" and got some promising titles there in only three pages of results.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200

Good info there about the PC process and others. If you use the PC, do have them marine zinc primer the parts first then color paint over that. The marine primer keeps rust from forming quickly in and chip or scratch areas, and keeps it out from crawling under the coating against the metal.

Suggest searching the Paint and Bodywork Forum for more info...
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[Alex1976]

I don't know that I did it "right" but I'm very happy with my engine tin clean up results. I did my own DIY electrolysis. The process is pretty easy and well documented on various youtube videos.

Here's the youtube video I found most informative.

Link

I do recommend you purchasing a manual battery charger for more power and more effective rust removal. Here's a link to the one I eventually purchased on Amazon for much better results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IBJBM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this method for removing rust on anthing that's too big for grinding. I plug it in and leave it alone to do the work. I even used an old plastic kiddy swimming pool to clean my dismantled seat frames and it worked beautifully.

Hope this helps!!
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1966 Bus https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=678279

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[srfndoc]

Last time I sandblasted/powdercoated the tin (doing repairs before the PC) and they came out great and have held up well.
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[nlorntson]

I do the following:

1. Degrease
2. Straighten/repair/weld any problems
3. Sandblast to bare metal
4. Paint directly on the bare metal with Eastwood Chassis Black satin, at least two coats.

This seems to withstand all the heat on a properly functioning engine, and nicely replicates the look of OEM tin. Tin I did years ago still looks nice even after several thousand miles.

[Busstom]

[orangebug60guy]

I use purple power, 000 steel wool, the garden hose, and old towels. It takes a while but you save most of the OG paint and they’re nice and clean. Wear gloves. For an added punch bring it to the local DIY car wash with the pressure washer and hit it with the engine degreaser.
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[c21darrel]

[slave1pilot]

They also sell it in a rattle can, which is what I'm planning on using.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1.../202315061

I just finished glass-bead blasting all my tins and am about to spray the tins
I'll keep you posted.
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Currently:
1963 Ragtop Beetle
Previously:
1967 Beetle
1968 Beetle
1970 Beetle

[otis_bartleh]

I went with a more ghetto method, sanded the tinware down with a wire-wheel in a drill, and sandpaper, hit them with VHT high temp black wrinkle paint, threw them in the oven for a bit and done... It may not be pro, but I like the way the came out, and that's all that matters...
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'59 Mango Bus
'69 Bug

[iamdonquixote]

[BarryL]

[vwinnovator]

-glassbead bare -gets any rust out or pitted areas..
-acid etch the bare metal
-scuff
-paint with choice of color / paint desired.

matte/flat/semi-gloss/gloss/

[Bulli Klinik]

Drop off at the blaster.
Repair any damage.
Paint with:

Direct to metal. No primer.
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Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[Alan Brase]

[Who.Me?]

Granted my single cab doesn't get as much use as it should and I'm not bothered about a show quality engine, but I just primered the tinware and used rattle-can satin black paint a couple of years ago. No blistering due to heat or ill-effects from petrol or oils yet.

I don't think special paints or powder coat are necessary so long a you've done decent prep work (which isn't to say you shouldn't use them if you like the look - I like the results of that enamel above).

You should only need high temperature paints for fires/log burners, engine blocks, exhausts and suchlike though.
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[slave1pilot]

[Bulli Klinik]

[mgwerks]

Looking for advice, so I am resurrecting this thread.
First, best method for rust removal, since can't sandblast inside housing well. Chemical/phosphoric? Electrolysis?
Second, how to get interior of housing coated to prevent further rust.
Want to do this right, these 181 shrouds are almost unicorns.
Thanks!

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2008 Passat 2.5l
1974 Thing!

[Eric&Barb]

Suggest electrolysis, followed with phosphoric acid treatment before painting, or electrolysis, and have it marine primered that has a zinc content and semi gloss black at your local powder coater. The latter holds up much better over time.
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