Original Factory Tar/Glue Mats on chassis?

[mas00]

Hello everyone, I gutted out my bug this weekend and took the sound deadening insulation off the floor boards and there are these thick tar glue like mats that they were stuck to. They are all over the chassis. My uncle told me that they are the original factory that came with the car, can anyone verify this?

They are about 1/16 thick and some parts still glued other parts rock hard and break off. What would be the best way to take this stuff off? I thought a scrapper would do but it's just gonna leave a mess and I don't think it would even take all of it off.

In advance thanks for the suggestions.

Mas

[mukluk]

Yes, that is the factory installed insulation. Unless there's a good reason to remove it such as rust that requires attention, I'd say just leave the insulation in place.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[mas00]

Well.. I guess my qualm is then what do I do when I remove the body off the chassis and repaint/seal the chassis with POR-15? The whole area in the front is half paint half primer you can see some of the primer on the first photo where the battery sits..

[mukluk]

You could refinish the areas that need it and leave those that don't alone... or redo the whole thing. It's your car, do with it as you wish.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[lovethatconvertible]

Save it, you'll never be able to reproduce it. Work around the tar board, get creative Man. you can do it.
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1960 Convertible

[Sharp64]

Based on the pictures in your gallery this isn’t a restoration. I’m going to be the voice of descent and encourage you to tear that crap out, clean it up, and por15 it to death. I hesitated on my 64 as it was a dry Texas origin car. When I did begin to scrape up the tarboards I found the beginnings of rust lurking underneath. Zero regrets in doing so as I saved my pans. VW engineered an outstanding car, but these tarboards weren’t the best idea IMO. They can fail after this amount of time and allow moisture underneath which is then trapped and festers. It’s a crappy job, but a 3in1 painters tool and a lot of elbow grease will get you there.

Exception being I wouldn’t mess with the ones on the tunnel. Doubtful there is moisture under them.
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1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[anthracitedub]

Get a little bottle torch and a putty knife, heat from the bottom and it chips off p easy. Use a wire wheel to knock off all the little pieces.

I’m willing to bet there is rust forming in the low points of the stampings.

[Balmoral1958]

Agree- if there is any moisture under that tar - it will rust.... not so much much on the tunnel but I had it on may pans - ended up using dry ice and chipped it off- but heating works as well...
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2x 1974 Karmann Ghia Coup
1984 Citroen 2CV
1956 Citroen 2CV
!984 911 Targa

[mas00]

thanks for all the suggestions, this car was built and has been in Texas it's whole life, but I know for a fact we pulled out the passenger side pistons and they have a bunch of crude on the inside rings and a little build up. We can save them due to cleaning and I have a honing tool because it's not much. But I have a strong inner knowing that the whole passenger side of this car will have more build up and weather damage due to how this was stored outside on my uncles land.

I saw a video where someone used a air chisel and that seemed to work wonders. Dry ice and heat was a bit more of a head ache?

[Bryan67]

Believe it or not, EMPI sells a really nice, thick floorboard insulation. You will have to trim it so it fits better though.
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If you`re going to do something, do it right.

[scrivyscriv]

Try this link:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=341322

Saw a topic with someone using the dry ice and it looked like it worked well
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[mukluk]

[Sharp64]

[my59]

I had a Benz coupe that died a rusty death from the floors rotting out. Underside had factory undercoat, inside factory sound deadner. The undercoating got damaged, water got in, and the floor oxidized unknowingly until the passenger seat sank through when someone got in the car.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[mas00]

I'm probably going to tear the floor out and leave the tar boards where the e-brake and stick shift are. Do yall know of any good replacements? I've read of all types of people using different materials, from yoga mats, to thin sound foam.

thanks

[Sharp64]

Look up sound deadener. There are lots of options. I used second skin damplifier.
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1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[mas00]

thanks and what is your overall consensus of second skin damplifier? Did you get what you paid for or is it worth it going with dynamat, hushmat, etc.
Did you go with the pro or just regular?

[Sharp64]

Meh. It’s ok. I’m not an audiophile or anything. Just wanted something to dampen rattling and interior noise a bit. Probably better/cheaper products out there.
_________________
1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine